diy solar

diy solar

Affordable Option for Solar Li-ion Home Battery System?

alexdong33

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Jun 30, 2021
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Hello all!

My name is Alex and I am a newcomer to this forum!
I am so excited to have found this site and want to thank each one of you for your dedication!

I am thinking about installing a solar battery system for my home but don't think I am ready to DIY my own yet..
May I ask yall if there are any recommendations as to where I should start to look into getting my own system installed?

Tesla's Powerwall just seems too expensive and unnecessary (no off-grid available I heard! Lots of restrictions),
and I want to know if there are any cheaper alternatives so at least I can get into knowing more about this subject,
and hopefully getting my own system in no time!

My daily usage is about 5 kWh or so, I live by myself,
and the only time that I used more energy than normally would is when summer comes around and I use AC most of the time if I am stuck in the house.

Thank you all so much!! I so look forward to getting to know yall!!

Alex
 
Welcome to the Forum.
5kWh a day is not hard to deal with, that's basically what I use per day.
The quick way to know what you use "as is" now is by looking at your power bill and the Daily Average. Some companies provide a breakdown while with others you have to do the math.

The usual way: (once you know your usage), 5kWh in this case.
- Battery Sizing: How many days autonomy without any generation reserve do you want. Typically people choose 3 days, some more, depends on location & situation.
- Inverter Sizing to be able to deliver the required amount of VAC to run everything. The inverter has to be sized to deliver the maximum amount "demanded": by your appliances/devices. "Demanded" refers to not only running power but startup surges, such as a Fridge Motor or AC Compressor and such. 120VAC & 240VAC Inverters are available.
- Solar Controller sizing: Once we know how big of a battery system you need/want, then a Solar Charge Controller that has enough capability to charge the batteries within the sun hours available will need to be selected and then the Solar Panels to feed the SCC and provide enough to charge the battery bank.

Inverter Capacity Sizing:
Inverter take the DC from batteries and outputs the AC, Inverters can be anywhere from 85%-95% efficient, depending on the Quality level Tier-1 Like Victron, Solark are more efficient being TopTier product. NOTE: It is strongly suggested that no Inverter System pull/draw more than 250A from a battery bank, If more is required, stacked inverters and such come into play.
Quicky Simple Guide: not corrected for inefficiency. Not including surge capacity.
12V@250A=3000W (120VAC/20A - 240VAC/10A), 12V requires 4 Cells (4S)
24V@250A=6000W (120VAC/40A - 240VAC/20A), 24V requires 8 Cells (8S)
48V@250A=12,000W (120VAC/80A - 240VAC/40A), 48V requires 16 cells (16S)

Grid Tied or not ?
Grid Tied with inspections, permits, fees, randomly weird power co's and issues with tariffs... it's costly and actually slows the ROI (return on investment)
Grid Connected (not pushing power to grid, but can use grid to charge batteries & power home concurrently) This has become the most popular option gaining ground. No power Co interference (you are not pushing to them, so out of the loop) fewer permits and fees BUT battery bank cost etc added.
Off-Grid, no power co poles/wires no problem - Freedom !

LFP Battery DIY is not hard, can be cost effective but requires patience and calmness. Using a known good vendor & pricing I'll give you a couple of quick examples.
Every battery pack requires a BMS (Battery Management System), a Fuse/Breaker, Battery Terminals, A Case/Frame.
For average example: BMS costs Vary a lot, so we'll say $250, Fuse & terminals $60 case/frame ----
EVE-280AH Matched cells. $125ea. SOURCE (Known Good Reliable Vendor - LUYUAN TECH) NB Showing Matched & Bulk cells.
12V/280AH/3,584Wh or 3.58kWh -- 4 cells $500 + $310 = $810.00 ( 310 = BMS 250 + Fuse & Terminals $60)
24V/280AH/7,168Wh or 7.1kWh -- 8 cells $1000 + 310 = 1310
48V/280AH/14,336 or 14.3kWh -- 16 cells $2000 + 310 = 2300

How to Assemble and setup info here:

MONEY, Time & Stress Savers !
Simply put there are TWO ways to attack the solar systems (more but two most common)
The"traditional" method uses an independent SCC (Solar Charge Controller) to manage the solar panels & charge the batteries. Then a separate Inverter/Charger to converter the DC Battery power to AC and to use AC IN to charge the batteries if/when required.
The new AIO (All-In-One) Integrated systems which contain the SCC, Inverter, Charger in one "box" but are modular within for service/repair/upgrade if required. These simplify a LOT of hassle and wipe out some BOS (Balance of System) devices and is much easier to setup & install...
Micro-Inverters and such are mostly oriented towards grid-tied installations, can be used without grid but that is quite another beast to work with.

Will's AIO Video Playlist

Will's AIO blueprints on the main website:

! MOST IMPORTANT ADVICE !
1) Do diligent research with critical thinking applied.
2) DO NOT BUY ANYTHING until you have a PLAN. Failure to Plan is a Plan to Fail ! and it is costly !!
3) There is NO SUCH THING as a Once in Lifetime Deal ! IF it sounds too good to be true IT IS don't question that !
4) When budgeting your project, once you have a "Final" $ Figure including all the little bits, odds & sods, ADD a 25% buffer to prevent heart attacks.
5) A BIGGY which is a Gotcha for about 70% of folks... Underestimating their needs... Things change, shit happens, we buy more junk or have kids etc... Happens to all of us, planned or not, life just does that.... Everyone by their inherent nature thinks they are more conservative than they actually are, especially folks new to solar, because they still have the thinking that "I'll just turn this on, without a 2nd thought". I generally recommend that once you have this sorted, go one step up in capacity & storage to future-proof self. Many don't like this and refuse to do it, then 1-2 years later they're grumbling while upgrading. Seen this TOO MANY TIMES. At minimum the Base Foundation like battery packs, battery cables and such should always be one grade above, which also cover overshoots that happen occasionally (ie you have a big party & use 2x or 3x more energy that day than normal)... or your using extra power tools because you have a project to do... happens a lot BTW.

ONE RULE that will always be TRUE !
It is far cheaper to Conserve Energy than it is to Generate it and Store it ! Eliminate the Energy Pigs and replace them with efficient and clean appliances / devices. That Fridge you inherited from Grandma may look cool but it's sucking your wallet. That old Hot Water Tank is like having your car sitting on the driveway running All Day Long just because you may want a 5-minute drive to the corner store... On-Demand Hot Water heating and Even On-Demand coupled of Solar Water heating can save a HUGE Pile of energy and subsequently cash. That electric Coil Stove is a Gnarly beast draining your power too.... an Induction Cooktop and infra-convection Oven are super-efficient and microwaves are always good. Well pumps with SoftStart that ramp up saves on surge hits and use much less power as well... You would be shocked if you knew how inefficient a lot of consumer products are, especially the older stuff when power use was no concern.

Hope it helps, Good Luck.
 
Last edited:
The cheapest LiFePO4 non DIY that I know of is the 48v GYLL battery from Signature Solar. Use the search function to find a few threads on them.

Also look here :


About $1500 for 5.1 kWh.
 
One of the most important items that people don't think about in the excitement of setting up a solar system.

ONE RULE that will always be TRUE !
It is far cheaper to Conserve Energy than it is to Generate it and Store it ! Eliminate the Energy Pigs and replace them with efficient and clean appliances / devices. That Fridge you inherited from Grandma may look cool but it's sucking your wallet. That old Hot Water Tank is like having your car sitting on the driveway running All Day Long just because you may want a 5-minute drive to the corner store... On-Demand Hot Water heating and Even On-Demand coupled of Solar Water heating can save a HUGE Pile of energy and subsequently cash. That electric Coil Stove is a Gnarly beast draining your power too.... an Induction Cooktop and infra-convection Oven are super-efficient and microwaves are always good. Well pumps with SoftStart that ramp up saves on surge hits and use much less power as well... You would be shocked if you knew how inefficient a lot of consumer products are, especially the older stuff when power use was no concern.

Doing an energy audit based on real usage and not guess work has really helped me determine the energy vampires lurking about. Have 2 Kill-o-watt meters that I was using to determine but upgraded to an Emporia panel monitor to get realtime readings and logging. Emporia monitor
 
One of the most important items that people don't think about in the excitement of setting up a solar system.



Doing an energy audit based on real usage and not guess work has really helped me determine the energy vampires lurking about. Have 2 Kill-o-watt meters that I was using to determine but upgraded to an Emporia panel monitor to get realtime readings and logging. Emporia monitor
I've been looking at that myself, how is it working out for you?
 
Thank you yall!!
Seriously moved by all of your kind advice, I am stunned!

Sounds like all of yall are incredible critical thinkers and I have to start looking hard into all those places.
MONEY, Time & Stress Savers !
Simply put there are TWO ways to attack the solar systems (more but two most common)
The"traditional" method uses an independent SCC (Solar Charge Controller) to manage the solar panels & charge the batteries. Then a separate Inverter/Charger to converter the DC Battery power to AC and to use AC IN to charge the batteries if/when required.
The new AIO (All-In-One) Integrated systems which contain the SCC, Inverter, Charger in one "box" but are modular within for service/repair/upgrade if required. These simplify a LOT of hassle and wipe out some BOS (Balance of System) devices and is much easier to setup & install...
Micro-Inverters and such are mostly oriented towards grid-tied installations, can be used without grid but that is quite another beast to work with.
I am so curious about the AIO system as it sounds like it could save me from a lot of hassle from the beginning.. So far I have only come across one AIO system and it's made by Samsung. Just did a bit more research, the one I'm looking at is "SAMSUNG BATTERY INVERTER 3.6KWHR ALL-IN-ONE" and it's great since it has the battery included.

Samsung AIO system uses Li-ion battery apparently, I saw elsewhere that some retailers have LiFePO4 Solar System Batteries but it comes w battery only and not the whole package like the AIO. I guess I am just wondering if 1) the difference between Li ion battery and LiFePO4 batteries matters, and 2) does the lifespan/user experience of AIO sufficient, if not better, than a traditional inverter, considering AIO's complex system (since it has 3 components essentially)? I think there will always be a myth about multi-function products being not as good as traditional items that have one function only like people always stress about shampoo/conditioner two-in-one hair wash lolol.

Thank you yall so much again! Words can't describe how grateful I am to all of you!
You guys made me feel so welcomed here! I will keep on studying this topic and I recognize now I must be dedicated to thinking deeper if I want to make the best decisions!
 
One of the most important items that people don't think about in the excitement of setting up a solar system.



Doing an energy audit based on real usage and not guess work has really helped me determine the energy vampires lurking about. Have 2 Kill-o-watt meters that I was using to determine but upgraded to an Emporia panel monitor to get realtime readings and logging. Emporia monitor
Does it function similarly to BMS? I saw some batteries come with a monitoring system called BMS I believe,
but not sure if it is the same, if it works better, or if it's better to just purchase a monitoring system separately like the Emporia monitor.
The first impression is that the separate monitor even shows the status of electronic appliances and not just the battery/SS status.

Thank you!
 
I am so curious about the AIO system as it sounds like it could save me from a lot of hassle from the beginning.. So far I have only come across one AIO system and it's made by Samsung. Just did a bit more research, the one I'm looking at is "SAMSUNG BATTERY INVERTER 3.6KWHR ALL-IN-ONE" and it's great since it has the battery included.

Samsung AIO system uses Li-ion battery apparently, I saw elsewhere that some retailers have LiFePO4 Solar System Batteries but it comes w battery only and not the whole package like the AIO. I guess I am just wondering if 1) the difference between Li ion battery and LiFePO4 batteries matters, and 2) does the lifespan/user experience of AIO sufficient, if not better, than a traditional inverter, considering AIO's complex system (since it has 3 components essentially)? I think there will always be a myth about multi-function products being not as good as traditional items that have one function only like people always stress about shampoo/conditioner two-in-one hair wash lolol.

Will has some recommendations for all in one systems you should look at.


LiFePO4 batteries are popular here for safety reasons. Lithium battery chemistries are not all equal. They are also relatively cheap, and high density, but not the highest density. Unless you are talking about a vehicle, LiFePO4 should be where you start looking. Will has a lot of good recommendations, you should take the time to look them over.
 
Does it function similarly to BMS? I saw some batteries come with a monitoring system called BMS I believe,
but not sure if it is the same, if it works better, or if it's better to just purchase a monitoring system separately like the Emporia monitor.
The first impression is that the separate monitor even shows the status of electronic appliances and not just the battery/SS status.

Thank you!
The Emporia monitor is to see where you are currently using grid power, to help plan where and how much you are currently using power.

A BMS is to monitor your battery and make sure it doesn't overcharge or over discharge. Either can kill your battery.
 
Will has some recommendations for all in one systems you should look at.


LiFePO4 batteries are popular here for safety reasons. Lithium battery chemistries are not all equal. They are also relatively cheap, and high density, but not the highest density. Unless you are talking about a vehicle, LiFePO4 should be where you start looking. Will has a lot of good recommendations, you should take the time to look them over.
Yes! Will be watching it now!
I am so overjoyed by all the info I am receiving hahaha it's time to take a deep breath and organize myself.

Thank you SO much!!! You are awesome ?
 
Do some math on cost of battery, expected number of cycles before worn out and kWh per cycle, see if it makes financial sense.

The numbers I've come up with are:
$0.50/kWh lead-acid AGM
$0.25/kWh lead-acid FLA
$0.50/kWh lithium (various chemistries) from name-brand sources
$0.05/kWh DIY LiFePO4 (280 Ah cells around $100 each plus a BMS.)

There are some cheaper commercially assembled lithium batteries recently. Some using recycled cells, some new cells like what people buy for DIY.
I haven't run the numbers but think some are around $0.10/kWh

These figures assume batteries last as long as vendors say. In one third-party test, a battery by Sony and one or two other brands lasted 3500 equivalent 100% cycles. But 95% of all brands tested failed, requiring repair or replacement.

So if you're trying to save money, pad the analysis a lot and assume something like 1/3 the lifespan promised.


My system uses AGM, but it is just for backup during grid failures and only supplies smaller loads at night. If I was trying to cycle it every night it would be something else.
 
Thank you yall!!
Seriously moved by all of your kind advice, I am stunned!

Sounds like all of yall are incredible critical thinkers and I have to start looking hard into all those places.

I am so curious about the AIO system as it sounds like it could save me from a lot of hassle from the beginning.. So far I have only come across one AIO system and it's made by Samsung. Just did a bit more research, the one I'm looking at is "SAMSUNG BATTERY INVERTER 3.6KWHR ALL-IN-ONE" and it's great since it has the battery included.

Samsung AIO system uses Li-ion battery apparently, I saw elsewhere that some retailers have LiFePO4 Solar System Batteries but it comes w battery only and not the whole package like the AIO. I guess I am just wondering if 1) the difference between Li ion battery and LiFePO4 batteries matters, and 2) does the lifespan/user experience of AIO sufficient, if not better, than a traditional inverter, considering AIO's complex system (since it has 3 components essentially)? I think there will always be a myth about multi-function products being not as good as traditional items that have one function only like people always stress about shampoo/conditioner two-in-one hair wash lolol.

Thank you yall so much again! Words can't describe how grateful I am to all of you!
You guys made me feel so welcomed here! I will keep on studying this topic and I recognize now I must be dedicated to thinking deeper if I want to make the best decisions!
Yes, The Samsung units have battery modules, so do Growatt, Victron and many others. Personally, I know too much about Samsung and would never use any of their products. AIO's are NOT New - they are recent, meaning become popular in the past 5 years as more manufacturers & resellers got into it.

People do get hung on Large Scale Integrated devices but these are modular internally and designed to be repairable / maintainable. Voltronix makes many AIO's for various brands as they are an OEM but they are made to the VAR's spec's, which also creates some minor confusion.

LFP (LiFePo4) versus other chemistries, LFP is not as High Density as say NMC or NCA Li-Ion so more space & heavier is required, which for ESS (Energy Storage Systems) is fine, whereas in an EV every ounce per kW counts. LFP is also the Safest of all the Lithium Chemistries and will likely only be surpassed by SolidState Lithium Cells when they appear.

Seriously, have a look at those GYLL Batteries mentioned and a decent Growatt AIO and that would make a very nice tidy system that can grow. The Growatt AIO's are stackable (verify the model & specs) manageable, monitorable and quite programmable for modes of operation.
NOTE: For Insurance, they will require UL/CSA/ETL certifications appropriate to your country / state / regional requirements. As you are well aware, insurance companies will use ANY excuse to avoid payouts on any claims, don't give them an excuse.

Most important thing I can tell you, Take your Time, Learn, Understand, ASK Questions there are No Stupid Questions except for the one not asked ! if someone balks at a question, press ignore, that is all they are worth.

 
I've been looking at that myself, how is it working out for you?
I really like the Emporia monitor. Only have 8 of the possible 16 ports monitoring. Deciding if I need the additional. Have checked the values against my Kill-o-watt and they appear to agree. The nice part about the Emporia is you can look at values by sec, min, hour, day, week, month or year. You can also download values as a .csv to email and scan through data that way.

I have to warn you that it may such you into a vortex of looking at the values constantly, like checking Facebook but with actual valuable information!

Right now the company is only focused on providing monitoring through a mobile app. I contributed a Docker Compose configuration to a project a few months ago to access the API's and display on Desktops but have not gotten back to looking at it for some time. https://github.com/jertel/vuegraf
 
Does it function similarly to BMS? I saw some batteries come with a monitoring system called BMS I believe,
but not sure if it is the same, if it works better, or if it's better to just purchase a monitoring system separately like the Emporia monitor.
The first impression is that the separate monitor even shows the status of electronic appliances and not just the battery/SS status.

Thank you!
The Emporia monitor is basically a set of amp clamps that clip around the hot (black) wires, coming off each breaker, in your panel to monitor the amount of electricity is being used. This can help you determine battery bank size, inverter size, etc that you will want to design around. Even if you were not going to build a system, it's nice to know where all those electrons/dollars are going. :)

The leads for the individual clamps are reasonable length so it may be interesting to add one to the lead back into my transfer panel and see how much is flowing back to that circuit. If anything just an interesting test.

Each circuit when you set allows you to name them. These shots are hourly usage and then hourly Aquarium specific info on the right.


image0.png image1.png
 
Welcome to the Forum.
5kWh a day is not hard to deal with, that's basically what I use per day.
The quick way to know what you use "as is" now is by looking at your power bill and the Daily Average. Some companies provide a breakdown while with others you have to do the math.

The usual way: (once you know your usage), 5kWh in this case.
- Battery Sizing: How many days autonomy without any generation reserve do you want. Typically people choose 3 days, some more, depends on location & situation.
- Inverter Sizing to be able to deliver the required amount of VAC to run everything. The inverter has to be sized to deliver the maximum amount "demanded": by your appliances/devices. "Demanded" refers to not only running power but startup surges, such as a Fridge Motor or AC Compressor and such. 120VAC & 240VAC Inverters are available.
- Solar Controller sizing: Once we know how big of a battery system you need/want, then a Solar Charge Controller that has enough capability to charge the batteries within the sun hours available will need to be selected and then the Solar Panels to feed the SCC and provide enough to charge the battery bank.

Inverter Capacity Sizing:
Inverter take the DC from batteries and outputs the AC, Inverters can be anywhere from 85%-95% efficient, depending on the Quality level Tier-1 Like Victron, Solark are more efficient being TopTier product. NOTE: It is strongly suggested that no Inverter System pull/draw more than 250A from a battery bank, If more is required, stacked inverters and such come into play.
Quicky Simple Guide: not corrected for inefficiency. Not including surge capacity.
12V@250A=3000W (120VAC/20A - 240VAC/10A), 12V requires 4 Cells (4S)
24V@250A=6000W (120VAC/40A - 240VAC/20A), 24V requires 8 Cells (8S)
48V@250A=12,000W (120VAC/80A - 240VAC/40A), 48V requires 16 cells (16S)

Grid Tied or not ?
Grid Tied with inspections, permits, fees, randomly weird power co's and issues with tariffs... it's costly and actually slows the ROI (return on investment)
Grid Connected (not pushing power to grid, but can use grid to charge batteries & power home concurrently) This has become the most popular option gaining ground. No power Co interference (you are not pushing to them, so out of the loop) fewer permits and fees BUT battery bank cost etc added.
Off-Grid, no power co poles/wires no problem - Freedom !

LFP Battery DIY is not hard, can be cost effective but requires patience and calmness. Using a known good vendor & pricing I'll give you a couple of quick examples.
Every battery pack requires a BMS (Battery Management System), a Fuse/Breaker, Battery Terminals, A Case/Frame.
For average example: BMS costs Vary a lot, so we'll say $250, Fuse & terminals $60 case/frame ----
EVE-280AH Matched cells. $125ea. SOURCE (Known Good Reliable Vendor - LUYUAN TECH) NB Showing Matched & Bulk cells.
12V/280AH/3,584Wh or 3.58kWh -- 4 cells $500 + $310 = $810.00 ( 310 = BMS 250 + Fuse & Terminals $60)
24V/280AH/7,168Wh or 7.1kWh -- 8 cells $1000 + 310 = 1310
48V/280AH/14,336 or 14.3kWh -- 16 cells $2000 + 310 = 2300

How to Assemble and setup info here:

MONEY, Time & Stress Savers !
Simply put there are TWO ways to attack the solar systems (more but two most common)
The"traditional" method uses an independent SCC (Solar Charge Controller) to manage the solar panels & charge the batteries. Then a separate Inverter/Charger to converter the DC Battery power to AC and to use AC IN to charge the batteries if/when required.
The new AIO (All-In-One) Integrated systems which contain the SCC, Inverter, Charger in one "box" but are modular within for service/repair/upgrade if required. These simplify a LOT of hassle and wipe out some BOS (Balance of System) devices and is much easier to setup & install...
Micro-Inverters and such are mostly oriented towards grid-tied installations, can be used without grid but that is quite another beast to work with.

Will's AIO Video Playlist

Will's AIO blueprints on the main website:

! MOST IMPORTANT ADVICE !
1) Do diligent research with critical thinking applied.
2) DO NOT BUY ANYTHING until you have a PLAN. Failure to Plan is a Plan to Fail ! and it is costly !!
3) There is NO SUCH THING as a Once in Lifetime Deal ! IF it sounds too good to be true IT IS don't question that !
4) When budgeting your project, once you have a "Final" $ Figure including all the little bits, odds & sods, ADD a 25% buffer to prevent heart attacks.
5) A BIGGY which is a Gotcha for about 70% of folks... Underestimating their needs... Things change, shit happens, we buy more junk or have kids etc... Happens to all of us, planned or not, life just does that.... Everyone by their inherent nature thinks they are more conservative than they actually are, especially folks new to solar, because they still have the thinking that "I'll just turn this on, without a 2nd thought". I generally recommend that once you have this sorted, go one step up in capacity & storage to future-proof self. Many don't like this and refuse to do it, then 1-2 years later they're grumbling while upgrading. Seen this TOO MANY TIMES. At minimum the Base Foundation like battery packs, battery cables and such should always be one grade above, which also cover overshoots that happen occasionally (ie you have a big party & use 2x or 3x more energy that day than normal)... or your using extra power tools because you have a project to do... happens a lot BTW.

ONE RULE that will always be TRUE !
It is far cheaper to Conserve Energy than it is to Generate it and Store it ! Eliminate the Energy Pigs and replace them with efficient and clean appliances / devices. That Fridge you inherited from Grandma may look cool but it's sucking your wallet. That old Hot Water Tank is like having your car sitting on the driveway running All Day Long just because you may want a 5-minute drive to the corner store... On-Demand Hot Water heating and Even On-Demand coupled of Solar Water heating can save a HUGE Pile of energy and subsequently cash. That electric Coil Stove is a Gnarly beast draining your power too.... an Induction Cooktop and infra-convection Oven are super-efficient and microwaves are always good. Well pumps with SoftStart that ramp up saves on surge hits and use much less power as well... You would be shocked if you knew how inefficient a lot of consumer products are, especially the older stuff when power use was no concern.

Hope it helps, Good Luck.

Do you have a breakdown like this for microinverters?
 
Do you have a breakdown like this for microinverters?

For a grid-tie net-metering system with microinverters, it is much easier to size. Just produce on average your average consumption. The grid serves as an infinite size battery.

Microinverters, like high voltage PV string inverters, simply convert DC power from PV panels to AC and backfeed the grid. Either would be UL-1741 (now probably UL-1741SA) compliant for U.S. systems. This is for grid-tie net metering.

To size them, typically find your total annual kWh consumption from utility bills. e.g. 10,000 kWh per year
Find your effective average annual sun hours per day for your location. Use the orientation and slope of your roof in a calculator found on-line. The answer will be something like, "fixed array of panels receives 5 hours effective sun on average.

Divide 10,000 kWh per year / 365 days per year / 5 effective hours sun per day = 5.5 kW system wattage.

Because you are grid-tied, you can round the size up or down a little, waste some power production or buy some power from utility.

You could install about 5kW worth of inverters, a single string inverter or 20, 250W microinverters.

PV panels in the field (heated by sun) put out less power than their "PTC" lab test rating, so get about 20% extra watts.
For 250W microinverters, use about 300W panel. For 5000W string inverter, about 6000W of panels.

If you want battery backup, you can select a microinverter or string inverter designed to work with battery inverters. Or consider a hybrid inverter (supports PV and batteries) instead.
 
The cheapest LiFePO4 non DIY that I know of is the 48v GYLL battery from Signature Solar. Use the search function to find a few threads on them.

Also look here :


About $1500 for 5.1 kWh.
seplos is about the same, and vglory a bit cheaper.
the shipping may be an issue, however, my seplos bms arrived in 6 days, so i am sure they are expedient
 
For a grid-tie net-metering system with microinverters, it is much easier to size. Just produce on average your average consumption. The grid serves as an infinite size battery.

Microinverters, like high voltage PV string inverters, simply convert DC power from PV panels to AC and backfeed the grid. Either would be UL-1741 (now probably UL-1741SA) compliant for U.S. systems. This is for grid-tie net metering.

To size them, typically find your total annual kWh consumption from utility bills. e.g. 10,000 kWh per year
Find your effective average annual sun hours per day for your location. Use the orientation and slope of your roof in a calculator found on-line. The answer will be something like, "fixed array of panels receives 5 hours effective sun on average.

Divide 10,000 kWh per year / 365 days per year / 5 effective hours sun per day = 5.5 kW system wattage.

Because you are grid-tied, you can round the size up or down a little, waste some power production or buy some power from utility.

You could install about 5kW worth of inverters, a single string inverter or 20, 250W microinverters.

PV panels in the field (heated by sun) put out less power than their "PTC" lab test rating, so get about 20% extra watts.
For 250W microinverters, use about 300W panel. For 5000W string inverter, about 6000W of panels.

If you want battery backup, you can select a microinverter or string inverter designed to work with battery inverters. Or consider a hybrid inverter (supports PV and batteries) instead.
Thank you, I'm about to install (ok, next year, not really about) a grid tied system with micro inverters. A big help.
 
For a grid-tie net-metering system with microinverters, it is much easier to size. Just produce on average your average consumption. The grid serves as an infinite size battery.

Microinverters, like high voltage PV string inverters, simply convert DC power from PV panels to AC and backfeed the grid. Either would be UL-1741 (now probably UL-1741SA) compliant for U.S. systems. This is for grid-tie net metering.

To size them, typically find your total annual kWh consumption from utility bills. e.g. 10,000 kWh per year
Find your effective average annual sun hours per day for your location. Use the orientation and slope of your roof in a calculator found on-line. The answer will be something like, "fixed array of panels receives 5 hours effective sun on average.

Divide 10,000 kWh per year / 365 days per year / 5 effective hours sun per day = 5.5 kW system wattage.

Because you are grid-tied, you can round the size up or down a little, waste some power production or buy some power from utility.

You could install about 5kW worth of inverters, a single string inverter or 20, 250W microinverters.

PV panels in the field (heated by sun) put out less power than their "PTC" lab test rating, so get about 20% extra watts.
For 250W microinverters, use about 300W panel. For 5000W string inverter, about 6000W of panels.

If you want battery backup, you can select a microinverter or string inverter designed to work with battery inverters. Or consider a hybrid inverter (supports PV and batteries) instead.
Thanks! My bad, I meant the battery side. I'm already all Enphase IQ7X with 10kW of SunPower and would love to throw in a good battery inverter/switch wherein I can use anything, even if there's some loss. I know I can use Enphase's batteries plug and play but a bit more freedom would be nice.

For example, I'd love to try a stack of those Gyll batteries. I'm just barely starting my due diligence. I permitted and installed all of the solar myself. The user summaries are great and finding the latest and greatest tech via Google isn't very reliable.

Arizona bumped the allowable grid tie to go to 20kW last year or else I wouldn't be stuck at 10kW (I installed prior to the bump up - thanks Tesla for lobbying). I want to oversize and go off grid slowly, load-by-load. Besides the 5-ton A/C, which I can smooth down, the biggest load is the induction stove. I already switched to a Rheem heat pump hot water heater. That thing is amazing. At the prices I'm seeing for LFPO, going off grid seems viable if I oversize my array. Before I do that, I went to get comfortable with batteries.
 
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