Fantastic batteries those powersafe's . You've got 9kwh capacity if you take them down all the way to 0%soc (which is ok on these, don't worry about any 50% rule, these big yellows are built like a tank)
any help or ideas for a newbie
- Thread starter andyriches
- Start date
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
except his shit is shutting down... back to the main issue.
well obviously they are not that buit like a tank or the OP wouod not have posted this. everything else you said is worthless. back to basics. were they fully charged? to what voltage? for how long? what kind of connections didi he have or not have? Is he running a modified sine wave inverter? please bow out.
andyriches
New Member
Hi This is my inverter, batteries and heat pump below (4 batts)
When its on load with the heat pump the voltage definitely drops as i had my meter on the supply side on my consumer unit the inverter powers. It runs the smaller pool water pump fine, also when the heat p[ump was on the battery % drops off really quick,i have impedance tested the batts and they came back at 2.6m ohms,data sheet states it should be around 3.5 m ohms, i get the lower the resistance the higher the current but i cant see why this would make them drain quickly or not keep the heat pump powered.
Unless these battery's cant hold the charge under load
This is my inverter below
cd
Are you able to individually capacity test each battery
One by one, fully charge each battery , stick a 12v inverter on , with a load and a power metering plug , you should get about 2kwh~ before the battery hits 10.5v
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
you gave a few very easily put out specs for you split pac or A/C. (heat pump) I must apologize, give a spec sheet for your inverter/converter/ inverter charger... can it honestly handle the load of your heat pump. this is first and foremost. I am sorry but offering screen shots of your AC/heat pump only answers half of the question. the question is can your inverter charger/AIO properly power your split pack which is what you are calling an inverter... most people on this forum refer to an inverter as the thing on the wall that changes DC into AC.
andyriches
New Member
Inverter Output:
Continuous output power = 2400W
Output power (15min) = 3000W
Overload Power (5s) = 4800W
Max. surge power = 6000W
Output voltage range = 220VA +/-5%, 230VAC (-10% ~ +5%)
Output frequency = 50/60+/-0.1 Hz
Output mode = Single phase
Output wave = Pure Sine Wave
andyriches
New Member
EPEVER UP3000-M6322 24v 2400w inverter charger - Sunstore Solar
EPEVER UP3000-M6322 24v 2400w inverter charger The UPower series is a new type of the inverter/charger combining with solar & utility charging and AC output.
www.sunstore.co.uk
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
ok the earlier screen shot gave a 900 watts max pull (i doubt) and your inverter gave a 2400 watts max output. how much is your house load minus the heat pump? or is the heat pump the only load on the circuit? if only load, how are your connections? (be honest) torqued, proper fittings, ox guard etc. how thick are the cables? (actual copper thickness) not the insulation. power drop is a real thing, bad connections are a real thing, shitty batteries are a real thing. so eleminate the ones you can for free.
are the connections tight?
are they Nickle plated copper to resist corrosion between the terminals and the lugs
are they coated with ox guard or something similar to prevent corrosion
lastly the thing I am looking at... are the cables big enough to carry the current yo need without excessive losses?
andyriches
New Member
The heat pump is the only thing running from the inverter. I did connect the heat pump to my house supply and with the usage meter it said it was using just under 1kw of power, i did have other stuff on in the house as well, not much so its about right at 900w.
Cables are 16mm copper stranded, not torqued just FT.
Ive not used any ox guard, all connections are inside my garage but if i can get this working i will.
Cable running to heat pump is 1.5mm armoured cable.
What i don't understand is when under load the batteries % runs down really quick, but having a meter on each battery still shows the volts stay the same, no v drop. Its like the batterie's are buggered but the voltage stays constant.
4 x 190 APH battery's at 4 or 5 amps should give me a decent amount of time, or so i thought.
Cable used is below
Cables are 16mm copper stranded, not torqued just FT.
Ive not used any ox guard, all connections are inside my garage but if i can get this working i will.
Cable running to heat pump is 1.5mm armoured cable.
What i don't understand is when under load the batteries % runs down really quick, but having a meter on each battery still shows the volts stay the same, no v drop. Its like the batterie's are buggered but the voltage stays constant.
4 x 190 APH battery's at 4 or 5 amps should give me a decent amount of time, or so i thought.
Cable used is below
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Don't worry about the % readout on your epever , that's meaningless ...
It sounds to me like one of the batteries could possibly be goosed , only one way to find out , individual capacity testing
Andy reading this again after my morning coffee,
If the voltage on each battery is stable under load , then looks like they should be are OK ....
But here's the question:
Is your inverter turning itself OFF (low battery)..... or is it keeping going , just showing a low battery symbol on the screen ??
@ 1kw load , you should be able to run for about 9 hours before the batteries drop 10.5v.
andyriches
New Member
It shows this elv symbol which in the manual says it’s a low voltage.My fluke on each battery shows 13v on each battery though.
The output from the inverter when under load from the heat pump varies from 190 to 230v.
I also clamped the main battery lead and that was ranging from 8A up to 20A when the compressor was trying to run,start up must be way higher than normal running.
If I can send a video on here I can show you exactly what is happening,
My kids are in the pool just now so I will turn it all back on when they get out.
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Will it run a 1kw fan heater without all these issues?
andyriches
New Member
I’ve not got a heater but I’ve plugged the toaster into it,more or less a heater 800w with no issues
Just under 900w with that and the pool pump and no issues
I guess it’s that heat pump drawing to much current
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andyriches
New Member
Also just put the hair dryer on at the same time,got to around 2kw,the battery % symbol dropped all the way down to 0 the the inverter turned off,the cables from the isolator to the inverter/batteries has melted,I’d used 2.5mm.
I will upgrade this to the same 16mm I’ve used for the batteries now,
Will the battery % symbol be dropping because of the cable being too small ?
When the % hit 0 that’s when the cables must have melted and shorted together it all happened at the same time.
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Sounds like it to me , too thinner cable, not enough power getting to the inverter
andyriches
New Member
Yip
Starting over again tomorrow ?
Thanks for you help and I will message when I’m done and tested it again.
Starting over again tomorrow ?
Thanks for you help and I will message when I’m done and tested it again.
andyriches
New Member
Unfortunately it’s still doing the same thing after I’ve put the bigger cables In
The heat pump won’t have it
I’m guessing the start up is too much current
