Anyone has purchased these Wulills 200AH 24v LiFePo4 batteries ?

[brooksy65]

Does anyone have a manual for this? There is a menu with settings.View attachment 149948

 

[brooksy65]

Hi, Good luck with your request to Wulills Battery for a Manual. I'm of the opinion they don't possess one, or are reluctant to issue it , for the obvious reasons of deniability in warranty issues. After 6 months of numerous requests for a Warranty Manual, and receiving what amounted to utter rubbish or promises in every reply. My last Wulills reply received was just " 4 laughing/crying emojis" which shows their total disregard for any "after sales customer service ". Then no further replies to my emails.

 

[Restlesseye]

Does anyone have a manual for this? There is a menu with settings

 

[Restlesseye]

I have a 24V100AH “Wulillis” battery. It came pretty fast to Oregon state off of Aliexpress, 9 days to my door.

I hooked this up to my charge controller yesterday, looked like it was running fine and sending about 26 volts to my inverter. After the sun went down, I was pleased it ran for a few more hours and when I woke up this morning it was completely dead. Currently charging it right now with a Amazon 24V LiPO4 charger.

I suspect the bottom limit of the battery has not been set and therefore it just kept discharging.

This is the BMS I have on my battery. Seems to be 7 levels of programming. I’m pretty sure 1-P is the “Voltage” setting but I cant seem to find any information for the rest of the settings. If anyone could help out, that would be great

Thank you

 

[Restlesseye]

Does anyone have a manual for this? There is a menu with settings.View attachment 149948

Any luck?

 

[Mof]

I recently purchased 4 300AH 12V batteries from Wulills via Aliexpress. I live in southern Ontario. They arrived in 5 days from the local Canadian warehouse in Aurora. The staff is quite responsive on the Aliexpress chat, although there seems to be some translation issues.

Capacity test performed with:
1. A fully charged battery
2. An inverter
3. A load (2 blow dryers)
4. A PZEM-015-300A (battery monitor with a 300A shunt)

Clamp meter and PZEM monitor both showed the blow dryers were drawing ~60A, which increased slightly as the test continued.

Time: 1H13mins 12.8V, 72.8AH, 939Wh, load drawing 60A
Time: 2H31mins 12.7V, 151AH, 1.94kWh, load drawing 60.8A
Time: 3H24mins 12.6V, 204AH, 2.61kWh, load drawing 61.6A
Time: 4H08mins 12.4V, 249AH, 3.18kWh, load drawing 61.7A
Time: 4H41mins 11.6V, 285AH, 3.62kWh, load drawing 67.0A
My inverter started to alarm at this point, so I shut off one of the blow dryers.
Time: 4H54mins 11.4V, 290AH, 3.68kWh, load drawing 25.3A
Time: 5H02mins 10.6V, 294AH, 3.72kWh, load drawing nothing - inverter shut off.
At this point I connected a 12V DC load (~5A) to run the battery down to low voltage cut-out (10V).

BMS:
It does not cut out at 10V as indicated in the specs. When I asked about it on the chat, they told me to try to bring the battery down to 9.8V. They assured me "Dear friend, Will not damage the battery." When the battery voltage dropped to 9.79, I disconnected the load. Final capacity is 296AH. Photo of final PZEM monitor readout attached.

Does anybody know at what voltage the BMS will actually cut out? I can bring it lower (9.5V) to test, but what is the lowest I should go to prevent damaging the cells?

When I asked about the BMS, they told me it is a JBD 4S 150A, and that their batteries do not have Bluetooth capabilities. I wonder if I could connect a Bluetooth module to the BMS...? That assumes I can find a way to open the plastic case. Did somebody say they were able to open up one of these plastic battery cases without too much damage?


3 more batteries to go, I will post an update when complete.

 

[brooksy65]

I recently purchased 4 300AH 12V batteries from Wulills via Aliexpress. I live in southern Ontario. They arrived in 5 days from the local Canadian warehouse in Aurora. The staff is quite responsive on the Aliexpress chat, although there seems to be some translation issues.

Capacity test performed with:
1. A fully charged battery
2. An inverter
3. A load (2 blow dryers)
4. A PZEM-015-300A (battery monitor with a 300A shunt)

Clamp meter and PZEM monitor both showed the blow dryers were drawing ~60A, which increased slightly as the test continued.

Time: 1H13mins 12.8V, 72.8AH, 939Wh, load drawing 60A
Time: 2H31mins 12.7V, 151AH, 1.94kWh, load drawing 60.8A
Time: 3H24mins 12.6V, 204AH, 2.61kWh, load drawing 61.6A
Time: 4H08mins 12.4V, 249AH, 3.18kWh, load drawing 61.7A
Time: 4H41mins 11.6V, 285AH, 3.62kWh, load drawing 67.0A
My inverter started to alarm at this point, so I shut off one of the blow dryers.
Time: 4H54mins 11.4V, 290AH, 3.68kWh, load drawing 25.3A
Time: 5H02mins 10.6V, 294AH, 3.72kWh, load drawing nothing - inverter shut off.
At this point I connected a 12V DC load (~5A) to run the battery down to low voltage cut-out (10V).

BMS:
It does not cut out at 10V as indicated in the specs. When I asked about it on the chat, they told me to try to bring the battery down to 9.8V. They assured me "Dear friend, Will not damage the battery." When the battery voltage dropped to 9.79, I disconnected the load. Final capacity is 296AH. Photo of final PZEM monitor readout attached.

Does anybody know at what voltage the BMS will actually cut out? I can bring it lower (9.5V) to test, but what is the lowest I should go to prevent damaging the cells?

When I asked about the BMS, they told me it is a JBD 4S 150A, and that their batteries do not have Bluetooth capabilities. I wonder if I could connect a Bluetooth module to the BMS...? That assumes I can find a way to open the plastic case. Did somebody say they were able to open up one of these plastic battery cases without too much damage?


3 more batteries to go, I will post an update when complete.

Hi, This post is based on experience gained using 2 x 200 amp Wulills 12.8 v Lifepo4 batteries over last 14 months and using 3 x 12 volt AGM type batteries previously in my RV for nearly 22 years. Recommend never going below 3.1 volts per cell {12.8 v Lifepo4 } in a 12 volt appliance only system , I achieve this lower limit by using the floor voltage cut out setting on a Victron Smart Shunt set @ 12.4 volts and settings for the batteries total capacity adjusted to suit these parameters , this to ensure all my 12 volt equipment with mid to high amp draw eg. Inverter, Microwave, Fridge, Water pump , Extractor Fans and basically any of the RV's electronic and electric motor appliance runs efficiently

 

[Mof]

I wonder if this is the BMS they installed with this battery? if any cell drops below 2.1V, then the discharge cut-off will happen. Seems extremely low to me.

https://jiabaidabms.com/products/jb...ry-pcb-with-passive-balance-ntc-temper-sensor

 

[brooksy65]

I wonder if this is the BMS they installed with this battery? if any cell drops below 2.1V, then the discharge cut-off will happen. Seems extremely low to me.

https://jiabaidabms.com/products/jb...ry-pcb-with-passive-balance-ntc-temper-sensor

Hi, As i understand, most if not all 12.8 v Lithium chemistry batteries the BMS is preprogramed to control discharging a battery until the first cell in a battery reaches 2.5 volts { under voltage protection } And the same when charging, the BMS controls the charge voltage and current until one of cells in the battery reaches 3.64 volts [ Over voltage protection ]. Most BMS units feature a device called an active or passive balancer it operates when battery is fully charged and or completely discharged . main feature of this device is that when activated it will pass a small discharge and charge amperage to balance individual cells voltages to ensure that all the battery cells are within millivolts of each other. Bluetooth enabled BMS units are usually described as " Smart " in their model type description

 

[Mof]

Hi, As i understand, most if not all 12.8 v Lithium chemistry batteries the BMS is preprogramed to control discharging a battery until the first cell in a battery reaches 2.5 volts { under voltage protection } And the same when charging, the BMS controls the charge voltage and current until one of cells in the battery reaches 3.64 volts [ Over voltage protection ]. Most BMS unit feature a device called an active or passive balancer it operates when battery is fully charged and or completely discharged . main feature of this device is that when activated it will pass a small discharge and charge amperage to balance individual cells voltages to ensure that all the battery cells are within millivolts of each other. Bluetooth enabled BMS units are usually described as " Smart " in their model type description

Sounds like reasonable logic... I.E. shut down when any single cell <2.5V. Clearly that is not programmed into the BMS on my Wulills battery; given that voltage dropped below 10V during my capacity test, one of the cells must have been <2.5V.

 

[davesupreme]

I have a 24V 200Ah LFP battery with actual capacity of 197Ah, made of A-grade cells, and it has been working very well.

any bets where this came from ????

 

[Mof]

any bets where this came from ????

How low did you bring voltage during the capacity test? Did the BMS low voltage cutoff engage?

 

[admiral99]

tldr:
12v 200Ah plastic casing: tested at 198Ah, but cells loose due to misplaced foam (transport?) and loose connection at plus terminal. Case is sized for a 12v 400Ah. M8 terminals are a plus. 6 AWG wire seems very small.
12v 200Ah Metal casing: tested at 185Ah, solid quality and great formfactor. slightly cheaper than the plastic version. M6 terminals are tiny.



I registered just to share my review.
Ordered a 12V 200AH in the plastic casing and a 12V 200ah in the metal casing. Took nearly 3 months to arrive.
Capacity tested both using a victron smart shunt.

Bundled parallel (via busbar, equal length wires) I got 350Ah in total. Then retested and the plastic casing was 198Ah, the metal casing around 150-157 - although I tested the metal casing one using a much higher load (0.7-1C). So I will retest the metal one and let you know my second round results.

Form factor of the plastic 200Ah is completely unnecessary - it is twice the size of the metal casing and is half empty.
The plastic 200Ah battery felt like the cells could shift within the packaging. Even worse I noticed that while testing it the positive terminal got hot (50 degrees celcius) at only a 20A discharge.

I managed to easily crack the case off the plastic 200 Ah open without damage by pressing in on the long sidewall - doing so cracked loose the glue from the top. I then carefully worked a putty knife round the sides to open the lid without any damage.
It appeared that the positive connection was indeed loose and it was easily tightened. There were no flexible rings or otherwise vibration resistant things to lock it in place, so i will add these later. Also the foam that keeps the battery in place was dislocated. Relocating this and tightening both lugs allowed to get the battery as it should be.

Be aware that the cabling from BMS to the terminals was only 6AWG- I would not continuously run 100-150A through that. Cells seemed to be second hand and from 2020, no relabling of any sorts.

I'm doubting which battery to keep - the metal casing is much smaller and tidier that I actually prefer that one over the plastic case, or to use both in our RV. I believe the casing of the 200Ah is would be the same as for the 12V 400Ah.

All in all happy given price / performance although I would take 'grade A' with a grain of salt. It's a pity the plastic case outperformed the 'metal case' by such an extent - but will retest the smaller metal battery to make sure it didn't have to do with the big load and/or thin cables.

edit: Metal case got 185 Ah when dropping to 11V under normal loads. So with that I would prefer the metal sized 200Ah battery over the plastic case even if it had slightly less capacity.

Replying to my own review. I've used the metal case wullils 200 Ah 12V battery for 3 weeks in our campervan now. It easily runs our 2500BTU aircon at full power (max 2.5 hours, around 80-90 Amps continuous - although when at temperature it starts to pulse on and off for a while) and our ikea single induction cooktop (between 70-120 amps although we prefer to use it at a lower setting given the 6AWG wiring).

I've used the supplied anderson 120 connector to connect the battery to the wiring (fused at 125Amps) and smartshunt. Behind it is a victron multiplus 1200 (brilliant bit of kit) and a victron MPPT 100/20 with 2x 115 watt solar panels.

I monitor the terminal temps with the Multiplus temperature sensor - at high and sustained load it will go from 30 degrees celsius (ambient) to about 45 C maximum. While warm (the cables are slightly warmer) not alarming yet. Voltage drop of about 2 to 3.5%. Not little but not exceptional either.

We have yet to run the battery down to less than 50% but i can say that it is brilliant to see that it accepts so much harm that we throw at it. We'll be using it daily for the coming couple of months and I plan to do a teardown to verify connections somewhere halfway. I doubted to install two of the metal casings (I actually ordered a second one) but glad I didn't - it runs our appliances more than well enough.

 

[brooksy65]

Replying to my own review. I've used the metal case wullils 200 Ah 12V battery for 3 weeks in our campervan now. It easily runs our 2500BTU aircon at full power (max 2.5 hours, around 80-90 Amps continuous - although when at temperature it starts to pulse on and off for a while) and our ikea single induction cooktop (between 70-120 amps although we prefer to use it at a lower setting given the 6AWG wiring).

I've used the supplied anderson 120 connector to connect the battery to the wiring (fused at 125Amps) and smartshunt. Behind it is a victron multiplus 1200 (brilliant bit of kit) and a victron MPPT 100/20 with 2x 115 watt solar panels.


We have yet to run the battery down to less than 50% but i can say that it is brilliant to see that it accepts so much harm that we throw at it. We'll be using it daily for the coming couple of months and I plan to do a teardown to verify connections somewhere halfway. I doubted to install two of the metal casings (I actually ordered a second one) but glad I didn't - it runs our appliances more than well enough.

Hi admiral99, I based my decision to purchase 2 x Wulills 200 amp batteries on a photo { see below } of a teardown posted by a DIY member of a Wulills 200 amp battery, clearly showing what appears to be 4 separate positive and negative conductors of 6 awg or 8 awg cable , either one are clearly better at carrying the battery BMS rated capacity draw of 250 amps than a single 6awg cable. The build construction looks solid , but their low pricing structure indicated to me, not to expect new A grade cells but recycled used cells, or to achieve their claimed battery amp capacity. Testing of my batteries confirmed my suspicions. Future buyers please take note.

 

[brooksy65]

 

[pjanas]

I have a question! Will the BMS in the battery I bought cut off the charge below 0 degrees Celsius?

 

[schriss]

I have 2 identical 24V 200Ah 8S batteries (metal boxes) and they do not behave the same way, one cuts off sooner than the other, I mean they cut-off at different voltage levels. Recently I measured each cell voltage and found out both batteries are now greatly imbalanced. I have decided to replace those BMSes with something more appropriate, most likely with JK Smart BMS with 2A active balancer built-in.

EDIT:L It's in.


and that's out:

 

[schriss]

Does anyone know what exactly are the cells used in 24V 200Ah batteries? I was looking at Aliexpress for individual cells, but they are all totally different dimensions, I can't locate the cells I have in my batteries. Dimensions are roughly 195mmx70mmx115mm

 

[schriss]

Update:
I have been running two identical 200Ah 5.1kWh Wulills batteries for quite some time now.
Both had BMS replaced with JK Smart BMS with 2A Active Balancer built-in. Before I replaced the BMS, I had issues such as unable to control cut-off voltage (also, it was not the same for each battery) and as a result, they would cut-off at about 25V.
~9.3kWh goes into them every day. I have never discharged them fully down to 0%, so no idea of actual full capacity.

 

[Mof]

The inside of my 12V 300Ah