Sunpower 435W panels. As mentioned they have a higher voltage.Most 72 cell panels don't go over 50 volt.
Some enphase go up to 60 volt.
What panels do you have?
Sunpower 435W panels. As mentioned they have a higher voltage.Most 72 cell panels don't go over 50 volt.
Some enphase go up to 60 volt.
What panels do you have?
Ahh commercial panels, and you are using those for residential. Out there in the solar fields there is no requirement for RSD etc so these are all made for (3 phase) high power hight voltage string inverters.Sunpower 435W panels. As mentioned they have a higher voltage.
A friend has some iQ7(X?) for the 96 cell panels (he's actually selling them). I looked at the specs to see if I could use them myself, but the VOC on these panels is still too high, especially in the winter months where it could potentially reach 94V at my location.I have used some of those. mine required a micro inverter for 96 cell panels ut other than that the DC is the same. I have others in a string on a hybrid inverter. Mine were earlier 305 Watt models.
I think I uaed IQ7 plus. I could not find any used ones so I bought 4 new ones,but the VOC on these panels is still too high, especially in the winter months where it could potentially reach 94V at my location.
Hoymiles Quad HM-1500NT is less than half the price of an Enphase, per panel, has a 25y warranty and the cable is plug-n-play all the way to the main switch and service panel. It's cUS Listed and I can get them for anyone here at near wholesale prices. I'm hooked up with them now. I have 6.48kW residential kits for $1.14/Watt. Definitely not too expensive now! And easy to install. Feel free to msg me. I can do a savings simulation for you given your address and utility. The ROI is typically over 300% for many rate schedules.
Best,
Todd
I just checked and the iQ7+ only goes up to 60V, the iQ7X (for 96 cell panels) goes up to 79.5V, still well below the adjusted VOC on my panels. My guess is you were using the iQ7X and either your panels had a lower VOC, or those micros are underrated. If the later, it might be worth a try seeing if those micros my friend has might work for my panels.I think I uaed IQ7 plus. I could not find any used ones so I bought 4 new ones,
This is where my interest is as well, maybe tying them in with a SA.Would you use microinverters on an install with no grid sellback? Say AC Coupled with hybrid inverter doing frequency shifting?
Btwafter a "rapid shutdown" on a residential building, all voltages should be below 80 volts within 30 seconds.I have used some of those. mine required a micro inverter for 96 cell panels ut other than that the DC is the same. I have others in a string on a hybrid inverter. Mine were earlier 305 Watt models.
I'm thinking about building my own EV. So that I can have double duty on the battery bank. I think that it would be easier to make everything work together, if I build it myself. EV battery will charge from solar and double as backup storage for house. It's still a bit in the future. So, I have plenty of time to work out the design details.My goal is similar in that I do not not want to rely on the grid or pay expensive prices to use it. I am using micros and a hybrid with batteries to give me energy independence. I can't totally get away from the grid because I need the grid for seasonal differences and to charge my EVs when traveling. I agree, batteries are the future.
Which makes me wonder, if not strongly consider if a micro (such as the iQ7X which is rated at 79.5V max) is artificially underrated. I spoke to one optimizer mfg and they told me their product is only rated to 80V to stay under for NEC RS requirements, but stated they have no problem up to around 100V before they start running into issues. I might buy one of those iQ7X off my buddy and put it to the test when the weather cools off.Btwafter a "rapid shutdown" on a residential building, all voltages should be below 80 volts within 30 seconds.
That is why you will not see micro inverters that will accept higher than 80 volts
Unfortunately, the National Fire Protection Authority has added more complexity. If you put solar panels on your roof, code requires a means of Rapid Shutdown if there are string voltages over 80V.I can reach the inverter on the wall, anything with the solar panels need a contractor/scaffolding and someone willing to scramble about on the roof.
Even now I'm looking at the 2x5 panel array - they have connectors underneath many of which are inaccessible without removing panels.
I don't want 'clever' 'expensive' boxes up there too.
Less complexity on the roof/out of reach/cost $ to fix/maintain the better for this particular customer.
I am anxious to test it. The Hoymiles inverters, when coupled with their meter and DTU-Pro can limit the export to 0kW. However, it has not been tested on a microgrid (yet). Its intent is to manage export to the grid and to control VARs.Would you use microinverters on an install with no grid sellback? Say AC Coupled with hybrid inverter doing frequency shifting?
Is there a statute or building code requirement that I do not know about?. I have made reasonable inquiries and found none in California. AFAiK the jurisdiction of the Investor Owned Utilities ends at the meter. For sure a building permit is required because an inverter connection is considered a circuit.Also, I'm not sure how one "gets away" with connecting a grid-tied inverter like a Sol-Ark and setting it for 0 export
I did a VW conversion in 2011 and then tried to use that pack to power an Outback Radian. I would be happy to discuss the issues if you are interested. The biggest one is voltage. Most EVs more powerful than golf carts run at voltages of 96 volts and up.I'm thinking about building my own EV. So that I can have double duty on the battery bank. I think that it would be easier to make everything work together, if I build it myself. EV battery will charge from solar and double as backup storage for house. It's still a bit in the future. So, I have plenty of time to work out the design details.
Planning for 144v or higher. The inverter battery voltage will be matched to whatever voltage I settle on.I did a VW conversion in 2011 and then tried to use that pack to power an Outback Radian. I would be happy to discuss the issues if you are interested. The biggest one is voltage. Most EVs more powerful than golf carts run at voltages of 96 volts and up.
If your inverter is only drawing power from the grid to power loads and charge batteries, that's fine. But any inverter that operates with it's "output" in parallel with the utility grid MUST have a signed interconnection agreement with the utility before it can be turned on, regardless if it is programmed not to export. Did you ask the utility like SDG&E or PG&E?Is there a statute or building code requirement that I do not know about?. I have made reasonable inquiries and found none in California. AFAiK the jurisdiction of the Investor Owned Utilities ends at the meter. For sure a building permit is required because an inverter connection is considered a circuit.
If the inverter is capable of sending power back to the grid AND the output of the inverter is connected directly to the grid, running in parallel with the grid. Then I'm afraid you do. I have never seen a utility that allows parallel generation without an interconnection agreement. If it is capable of exporting power and simply programmed not to, I'm pretty sure it requires an inspection by the utility to verify it is true. I'd bet money on it if I had any.If you are not sending power to the grid, you don't need any agreement.
I don't want to get rid of the Grid, I think that is a really bad idea.My goal is to get away from the grid. Not to continue relying on it.
Of course I did not ask PG&E. Have you seen the recent BS they are telling the CPUC? I know what their policy is. They want to tax us for using the sun to generate power. I asked you for a statute because I have looked and there is nothing that prohibits me from drying my clothes by the sun or generating electricity by the sun. It is still a free Country and I can do any thing behind the meter as long as I have a building permit.Did you ask the utility like SDG&E or PG&E?
I'm also keeping the grid as backup for now. Until my micro grid is complete. Then I'll send it packing. Because I agree that the minimum connection fees are going to increase. As more customers choose alternative options, the utility company will have to make money somehow.I don't want to get rid of the Grid, I think that is a really bad idea.
What I want to do is use almost zero power from them and use them as a backup. Right now it's a pretty sweet deal to keep them around but I suspect in the coming years they will raise that minimum fee so high that I will have to give them the boot.
I've no dog in this fight and know little about the laws in USA but looking at it from afar it looks to me that if a solar PV system in California falls into the category of being interconnected with the grid, then California Public Utilities Commission Rule 21 applies:I asked you for a statute because I have looked and there is nothing that prohibits me from drying my clothes by the sun or generating electricity by the sun.