jasonhc73
Cat herder, and dog toy tosser.
Take a picture of the wiring and what you are connecting both ends to.
I'm not convinced a 8s monitor can be used on every other cell on a 16 cell 48v battery, but...The BattGO harness has 9 wires so I used the one as a ground wire. I admit something ain't right.
I understand that but you also said "I have two BYD Batteries wired as 48volts."The batteries are 24 volts each when disconnected as I stated.
Which are you calling cell #1?Are the 8 wires on your 8s wiring harness connected to the + terminal of each of the 8 cells? If so, you will need a wire to cell 1 - terminal to adapt to the 9 wire BattGO harness.
On the connector, position 1 is the negative terminal of cell 1, position 2 is the positive terminal of cell 1. The voltage between these should read around 3.3v.
Position 3 is the positive terminal of cell 2. The voltage between position 1 and position 3 should read about 6.6v.
Position 4 is the positive terminal of cell 3. The voltage between position 1 and position 4 should read about 9.9v.
Seeing the pattern here? Voltage difference from position 1 and position 9 is the voltage of the entire battery.
you might want to check this video out.....it is possible to calibrate your ISDT Charger.I decided to put off making the battgo work for now. it's stored for now and soon will power up my small home. The pins are correct. Thanks for the reply.
That's interesting, I had never seen that. And for the moment that I actually got mine to power on by some partial correct lead connections, I could see it needed just that.you might want to check this video out.....it is possible to calibrate your ISDT Charger.
Sorry i missed this.Connecting to cell #1 (main battery positive),
Got it. Mine happens to have a black wire, but it is at the opposite end of the harness from the circle with a neg symbol in it and an arrow on the BattGO. So should I ignore the black wire in my case, and use the one inline with that symbol?Sorry i missed this.
Cell #1 is the main negative end of the battery.
Wire 1 connects to cell 1 negative. Wire 2 to cell 1 positive. Wire 3 to cell 2 positive... continue thru all positive posts.
It's a tremendous help, wish I had it some time ago...it should be in the resources section.Does this help?
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You know, I may have heard that pop. I most definitely could have fried it (although it never stopped while tinkering). I got frustrated and started connecting it every which way but loose. Guess I figured I had 35 bucks. I did get it on Amazon but procrastinated for a while because I then found I needed to make my own harness, and researched that forever. Ordered that stuff and made it, then couldn't find exactly how to connect. There is sooo little clarity from the manufacturer or forums on how to get started with these. You might get rich if you make a 24v Lifepo4 how to video. Now, looks like my timeframe for return expired a few days ago.Just created the diagram a few minutes ago, otherwise would have posted it earlier.
If you are connected properly, yet the device does not power up, it may have been zapped as you suspect.
When connecting to the BattGo, it seems the Pin1 black wire should make contact first (by sort of angling the connector when attaching). Otherwise, something inside pops. Perhaps an internal fuse, but the thing is not easy to open up to check or fix. Did you hear a "pop"?
Did you buy it on Amazon by chance? If so, replacement should be fairly painless.
It's Alive!!! Thanks man, your diagram saved the day. Question, what happens if you connect two packs in parallel, but one is at 3.337 SOC and the other is at 3.7 SOC? Too big of a gap, too much heat transfer? Could something get too hot too fast and damaged?If it's dead in the water and you can't return it, it's a good candidate for prying open to inspect for a blown fuse maybe. The face must be removable.
Then you need a 4s loom and monitor for each. It is completely different than having an 8s battery.what happens if you connect two packs in parallel,