MisterSandals
Participation Medalist
Sorry i missed this.
Cell #1 is the main negative end of the battery.
Wire 1 connects to cell 1 negative. Wire 2 to cell 1 positive. Wire 3 to cell 2 positive... continue thru all positive posts.
BattGO Wiring
- Thread starter Ron
- Start date
Cell #1 is the main negative end of the battery.
Wire 1 connects to cell 1 negative. Wire 2 to cell 1 positive. Wire 3 to cell 2 positive... continue thru all positive posts.
heirloom hamlet
life my way
Got it. Mine happens to have a black wire, but it is at the opposite end of the harness from the circle with a neg symbol in it and an arrow on the BattGO. So should I ignore the black wire in my case, and use the one inline with that symbol?
heirloom hamlet
life my way
It's a tremendous help, wish I had it some time ago...it should be in the resources section.
I wish I'd had it sooner, I think mine may be busted now after trying various configurations to figure this out. When I hook it up nothing happens. But when I connected it this way initially it though my battery was a 7S and only showed 7 cells voltages...and not accurately at that. Wonder why that might be. Seems like others have had similar problems, but I've never seen their resolution.
Just created the diagram a few minutes ago, otherwise would have posted it earlier.
If you are connected properly, yet the device does not power up, it may have been zapped as you suspect.
When connecting to the BattGo, it seems the Pin1 black wire should make contact first (by sort of angling the connector when attaching). Otherwise, something inside pops. Perhaps an internal fuse, but the thing is not easy to open up to check or fix. Did you hear a "pop"?
Did you buy it on Amazon by chance? If so, replacement should be fairly painless.
If you are connected properly, yet the device does not power up, it may have been zapped as you suspect.
When connecting to the BattGo, it seems the Pin1 black wire should make contact first (by sort of angling the connector when attaching). Otherwise, something inside pops. Perhaps an internal fuse, but the thing is not easy to open up to check or fix. Did you hear a "pop"?
Did you buy it on Amazon by chance? If so, replacement should be fairly painless.
heirloom hamlet
life my way
You know, I may have heard that pop. I most definitely could have fried it (although it never stopped while tinkering). I got frustrated and started connecting it every which way but loose. Guess I figured I had 35 bucks. I did get it on Amazon but procrastinated for a while because I then found I needed to make my own harness, and researched that forever. Ordered that stuff and made it, then couldn't find exactly how to connect. There is sooo little clarity from the manufacturer or forums on how to get started with these. You might get rich if you make a 24v Lifepo4 how to video. Now, looks like my timeframe for return expired a few days ago.
I did notice, while it was sort of working, that it said LiPo and switched it to LiFe, and it made more sense after that...but still wasn't quite right. Voltages were off quite a bit and missing one as a "7S".
I wouldn't need the BattGO at all if the current BMS options weren't the most unreliable, confusing and unestablished apparatus in the world.
heirloom hamlet
life my way
It's Alive!!! Thanks man, your diagram saved the day. Question, what happens if you connect two packs in parallel, but one is at 3.337 SOC and the other is at 3.7 SOC? Too big of a gap, too much heat transfer? Could something get too hot too fast and damaged?
MisterSandals
Participation Medalist
Then you need a 4s loom and monitor for each. It is completely different than having an 8s battery.
Wait, what is 3.37 SOC?
heirloom hamlet
life my way
One of the two 8S packs. I wanted to put two of my 280aH packs together for the first time. Two 8S packs, so 8S2P.
Incidentally, right now I'm seeing that it looks like the BattGO gets all kinds of confused when connected to one of two battery packs in an 8S2P.
