Cargo truck 24V 2200W Victron Build

[AmpD]

@MisterSandals Thanks for taking the time to educate me in the kiddie pool. Lets see how I did on the final exam!!!








The inverter and Cerbo pictured above will also be mounted on the forward wall. I don't have pro 3d software just basic paint. It is likely all components will end up mounted in the upper area if battery weight does not present an issue. If not It will likely become a flat wall with storage behind it.


all above image rights properties of respective owners. Used for educational purposes to help display plans for build.





Power Assessment: 5kWh per day use. 7A (160w) constant draw with up to 30A (700W) spikes and maximum single circuit draws up to 70A (1700W).

Battery Requirement 24V 300-400Ah (7680-10240)Wh (2 days panel production storage and potential for 300 amp overall max draw usage)

Victron Gear:

$436 364 (O.B.$338) 2x SCC115045212 SmartSolar MPPT 150/45 controller accepts AWG2 at both PV input and battery output (The MPPT 150/45 requires minimum of 50A fuse and max 63A)(16mm²/AWG6)
(substitute model on open box SCC115045210 (tr model) (5.1"x 2.7"x 7.3") (2.75 lbs))

$169 222 (O.B.$197) LYN060102000 Lynx Distributor (M8 Posts/Hole, 14Nm busbar terminals/interconnections, middle fused terminal bottom nut is 10Nm) (11.4"x 6.7"x 3.1") (4.85lbs)

$156 (O.B.$138) LYN020102000 Lynx Power In (M8 Posts/Hole, 14Nm busbar terminals/interconnections)

$400 PIN242120510 Victron Phoenix Inverter 24/1200 120V VE.Direct NEMA GFCI
*(O.B.$346 substitute model is PIN242122500 Victron Phoenix Inverter 24/1200 (14.3"x9.1"x4.6"),(16.3lbs), (max 4awg / 25mm2) (screw terminals))

$311 374 (O.B.$330) LYN040102100 Lynx Shunt (7.5"x 3.1"x 6.4"), (33mA @ 24V consumption),(M8 Posts/Hole 14nm)

$79 340 (O.B.$301) BPP900450100 Cerbo GX

Total $2220 (O.B. $1988)



Batteries:

$850 (x3) Cloudenergy 24V 150Ah (m8 screw terminal 16mm/5/16")

Total $2550



Wiring:

Wire Run total (-black & red+):

PV panels to combiner box awg10 (8)x 10'
Combiner Box to Controllers awg8 (4)x 5'
Controllers to Distributor awg6 (4)x 4'

Battery Bank to Power In awg4/0 (6)x 3'

Power In to Killswitch/shunt awg4/0 (2)x 6" (1)x15"


$96x(2) Amazon DIHOOL Combiner Box 2 in 1 out 25 Amp Fuse, 20-40kA 2P DC500V SPD, 50A DC 500V Breaker (3.0 N.m)
$60 Blue Sea Systems 9003E e-Series Battery Switch, 350A On/Off, Red (m10 3/8"), (3"x3"x1.5")
$25 BEP Marinco 770 battery switch 400A 48v (located on + busbar between lynx shunt and lynx Distributor) (There is an error in above diagram)


$25x(4) ???windyNation??? 10 awg USE-2 or RHH/RHW-2 PV wire MC4 connection (4)x sets (10')


($1.08/ft) batterycablesusa awg8 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 (80A),(168 Stranding),(O.D. 0.27"),(0.08 lbs/ft)
$32
- 5'- no ends $8x(2) Red (combiner to scc)
- 5'- no ends $8x(2) Black (combiner to scc)


($1.42/ft) batterycablesusa awg6 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 (120A),(266 Stranding),(O.D. 0.340"),(0.123 lbs/ft)
$32
-4'-5/16" lug one end $8 x(2) Red (SCC to Distributor)
-4'-5/16" lug one end $8 x(2) Black (SCC to Distributor)

($2.18/ft) batterycablesusa awg4 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 (160A),(420 Stranding),(O.D. 0.405"),(0.185 lbs/ft)
$22
-4' 5/16"(m8) to No Lug $11x(1) Red (Distributor to Pheonix)
-4' 5/16"(m8) to No Lug $11x(1) Black (Distributor to Pheonix)

($10.66/ft) batterycablesusa awg4/0 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 (445A),(2109 Stranding),(O.D. 0.735")(0.826 lbs/ft)
$360
- 6" 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $13x (3) Red (Positive Battery Terminal to T fuse Block)
- 3' 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $40x (3) Red (T fuse block to Power In)
-3' 5/16"(m8) to 5/16"(m8) $40x (3) Black (Negative Battery Terminal to Power In)
-6" 5/16"(m8) to 3/8"(m10) $13x (2) Red (Positive Power In to shutoff) (Shutoff to Lynx Shunt Postive)
-15" 5/16"(m8) to 5/16"(m8) $21x (1) Black (Negative Power In to Lynx Shunt Negative)

Total $738



Ferrules

(8)x 10awg pv inputs to combinerbox
(12)x 6awg (8)x combiner to SCCs,(4)x SCCs to Distributer)
(2)x 4awg Pheonix to Distributer


(suggestions here please)

>>> Ferrule supplier brand __________?
$__
>>> Klien crimper tool model #__________ ?
$__


Ring Lug Terminals

(specified and added when ordering wire)

Fuses

$57x(3) ‎Blue Sea Systems‎ ‎Fuse Block ‎5007100 Class T Ignition Protected 160-200A, Maximum Torque (21.47 Nm), 72 in-lb (8.13 Nm) Mounting Fastner Size 1/4" (M6) Terminal Stud Size 1/4" (M6), (Battery Terminal Side of Bank Cable)

$43x(3) Blue Sea Systems 5114 Fuse A3T/Class T 150A Boating Fuse A3T/Class T 150A

$15 signaturesolar Victron MEGA-fuse 125A/32V (5-Pack) ((1)x Distributer Pheonix 24/1200)

$17 signaturesolar Victron Energy | MEGA-fuse 60A/32V (package of 5 pcs) ((2)xSCC to distributor)
$13 amazon 2x Littelfuse 60a 32v mega 0298060

$55 signaturesolar Victron Fuse CNN 325A/80V for Victron Lynx Shunt (1 pc) (lynx shunt)
$24 amazon Buss/Ferraz CNN 400A 48v

Total $447 (+ferrules/crimper)

Accessories:

$25 Ve.direct Bluetooth Dongle
$70 Victron Pheonix 12/375 (allows an earlier use of system in a 12v stage)



System Total $5955

 

[AmpD]

Phases in which I plan to install the full build over time and how:

Starting Gear: (charging for dc devices & 100w draws)

*$338 SCC115045212/SCC115045210 SmartSolar MPPT 150/45 (650w@12v,1300W@24v)

*$330 LYN040102100 Lynx Shunt (7.5"x 3.1"x 6.4"), (33mA @ 24V consumption),(M8 Posts/Hole 14nm)

$289 BPP900450100 Cerbo GX

$96 DIHOOL Combiner Box 2 in 1 out 25 Amp Fuse, 20-40kA 2P DC500V SPD, 50A DC 500V Breaker (3.0 N.m)


$60 Blue Sea Systems 9003E e-Series Battery Switch, 350A On/Off, Red (m10 3/8"), (3"x3"x1.5")

$25 10awg USE-2 or RHH/RHW-2 PV wire MC4 connection 10' pair (1 panel to combiner box)

$16 batterycablesusa awg8 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 (80A),(168 Stranding),(O.D. 0.27"),(0.08 lbs/ft)
- 5'- no ends $8 Red (combiner to scc+)
- 5'- no ends $8 Black (combiner to scc-)

$16 batterycablesusa awg6 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable (SCC to distributor**)
- 4' 5/16" lug one end 1 Red 1 Black

$68 batterycablesusa awg4/0 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable
- 6" 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $13 (1) Red (Positive Battery Terminal to T fuse Block)
- 3' 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $40 (1) Red (T fuse block to Power In***)
- 6"- 5/16"(m8) lug one end & 3/8"(m10) lug one end Red x(2) $26, (Power In** to Disconnect to Shunt + Source Side tab)
- 15" 5/16"(m8) to 5/16"(m8) (1) Black (Negative Battery to Lynx Shunt Negative)


$57 ‎Blue Sea Systems‎ ‎Fuse Block ‎5007100 Class T Ignition Protected 160-200A, Maximum Torque (21.47 Nm), 72 in-lb (8.13 Nm) Mounting Fastener Size 1/4" (M6) Terminal Stud Size 1/4" (M6), (Battery Terminal Side of Bank Cable)

$43 Blue Sea Systems 5114 Fuse A3T/Class T 150A Boating Fuse

$17 signaturesolar Victron Energy | MEGA-fuse 60A/32V (package of 5 pcs) (SCC to + shunt Distribution Side tab***)

$60 bussmann ANN/CNN Fuse Limiter 325A (inside shunt)



$15 side post to 5/16" (m8) terminal adapter

***$15 battery junction block 150a 48v 2 post 5/16"(m8)


$0 existing 12v car battery (not the vehicle starting one it will remain isolated from system for now)

$0 existing 12v car 100w inverter w/ inline fuse

$0 existing 12awg wire and terminal mounting hardware for inverter lines

Total $1445

*=Open Box

Notes: (system non mobile at this time, used at home & starting point) (Why yes dear I just spent $1500 to charge my phone ?)

** Hook SCC fuse directly to Shunt until Distributor is purchased with first upgrade kit, m8 ring terminal on the inverter + line in between 2 washers placed under metal tab on 60A MEGA-fuse with a lock washer on top of metal fuse tab and then m8 nut.

SCC & Inveter negative lines will be mounted with m8 ring terminal connects to - shunt tab in same fashion without fuse.

***Use 150 Battery Junction Block in place of Power In to connect battery to Disconnect Switch until Power In is added to system when installing the second 24v battery later in the build.


First Upgrade: (24v, 100A peak, 1200W constant capability)

$850 Cloudenergy 24V 150Ah 100A bms

$197* LYN060102000 Lynx Distributor (M8 Posts/Hole, 14Nm busbar terminals/interconnections, middle fused terminal bottom nut is 10Nm) (11.4"x 6.7"x 3.1") (4.85lbs)

$15 Victron MEGA-fuse 125A/32V (5-Pack)

$400 PIN242120510 Phoenix Inverter 24/1200 120V VE.Direct NEMA GFCI

$25 10awg USE-2 or RHH/RHW-2 PV wire MC4 connection 10' pair (2cnd panel to combiner box)

$22 batterycablesusa awg4 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 (160A),(420 Stranding),(O.D. 0.405"),(0.185 lbs/ft)
- 4' 5/16"(m8) to No Lug $11 Red (Distributor + to Phoenix)
- 4' 5/16"(m8) to No Lug $11 Black (Distributor - to Phoenix)

Total $1509

Notes:

Hook second panel into system
disconnect SCC & 12v inverter
Remove 12v inverter from system
Remove 12v battery from system
add 24v battery
add Distributor to shunt
Connect SCC to Distributor using 60A MEGA-fuse
Connect Phoenix to Distributor using 125A MEGA-fuse


Second Upgrade: (battery bank expansion)

$156* LYN060102000 Lynx power in

$850 Cloudenergy 24V 150Ah

$57 ‎Blue Sea Systems‎ ‎Fuse Block ‎5007100 Class T Ignition Protected 160-200A, Maximum Torque (21.47 Nm), 72 in-lb (8.13 Nm) Mounting Fastener Size 1/4" (M6) Terminal Stud Size 1/4" (M6), (Battery Terminal Side of Bank Cable)

$43 Blue Sea Systems 5114 Fuse A3T/Class T 150A Boating Fuse


$133 batterycablesusa awg4/0 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable
- 6" 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $13 (1) Red (Positive Battery Terminal to T fuse Block)
- 3' 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $40 (1) Red (T fuse block to Power In**)
- 3' 5/16"(m8) to 5/16"(m8) $40x(2) Black (Negative Battery Terminals to Power In)
Total $1239

Notes:

Remove Junction Block & install Power In
Move 15" Black cable 5/16"(m8) to 5/16"(m8) that was connecting single Negative Battery Terminal to the Lynx Shunt Negative Source Tab & reuse it to connect the Lynx Power In to lynx shunt negative source tab.
Install positive battery cables, 150A class T fuse(s), & holders between batteries and Power In
add 3' Negative battery cables between batteries and Power In



Third Upgrade: (final battery bank expansion)

$850 Cloudenergy 24V 150Ah

$57 ‎Blue Sea Systems‎ ‎Fuse Block ‎5007100 Class T Ignition Protected 160-200A, Maximum Torque (21.47 Nm), 72 in-lb (8.13 Nm) Mounting Fastner Size 1/4" (M6) Terminal Stud Size 1/4" (M6), (Battery Terminal Side of Bank Cable)

$43 Blue Sea Systems 5114 Fuse A3T/Class T 150A BoatingFuse


$93 batterycablesusa awg4/0 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable
- 6" 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $13 (1) Red (Positive Battery Terminal to T fuse Block)
- 3' 5/16"(m8) to 1/4"(m6) $40 (1) Red (T fuse block to Power In**)
- 3' 5/16"(m8) to 5/16"(m8) $40 (1) Black (Negative Battery Terminals to Power In)
Total $1043

Notes:

Install positive battery cables, 150A class T fuse(s), & holders between batteries and Power In
add 3' Negative battery cables between batteries and Power In


Fourth upgrade (2cnd scc, 2cnd combiner box)

*$338 SCC115045212/SCC115045210 SmartSolar MPPT 150/45 (650w@12v,1300W@24v)

$96 DIHOOL Combiner Box 2 in 1 out 25 Amp Fuse, 20-40kA 2P DC500V SPD, 50A DC 500V Breaker (3.0 N.m)


$50 awg10 USE-2 or RHH/RHW-2 PV wire MC4 connection 10' (2)pair (2 panels to combiner box)

$16 batterycablesusa awg8 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 (80A),(168 Stranding),(O.D. 0.27"),(0.08 lbs/ft)
- 5'- no ends $8 Red (combiner to scc+)
- 5'- no ends $8 Black (combiner to scc-)

$16 batterycablesusa awg6 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable (SCC to distributor**)
- 4'-5/16" lug one end 1 Red 1 Black

Total $516

Notes: install 3rd & 4th panels, run 10awg pv cables between panels & combiner, run cables from combiner to SCC, Run cables from SCC to Distributor using 60A MEGA-fuse


I do realize the build could be accomplished for less cost by running 2s2P with the panels and a different SCC. This build will allow for both redundancy should a part fail and considerable future expansion potential.

Upon Reaching this step in the build we will be looking at adding the 24/2000 Multiplus unit but not including it in the diagram at present time. I'm sure more parts than listed below will also be needed. I'll be back to sort that when it is time. For now this is what we got on paper.

As for mounting panels to the roofline of vehicle. Any suggestions? Current thought was (3)x aluminum I-beams (2-3" sizing) lengthwise (14ft) down the roof using U bolts thru a steel plate and then the overhead joists to the I-beams. One on each side and one in the center. Mount the panel sets lengthwise side by side so I could hit both long sides of each panels with screws to an I beam. With a wind blocker across the front of the I-beams to prevent lift from under the panels. They are 3.5' x 7' and 62 lbs each.



Final Upgrade Package (Higher Wattage Draws and Shore Power)

$1,130 CMP242200100 Multiplus Compact 24/3000
$40 batterycablesusa awg2/0 Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable UL 1426 5' Black 5'red, 5/16" Lug Connectors both ends
$13 200A Megafuse blue sea (MP to Distributor)

Total $1183


M8 Bolt on Multiplus,
50A charge current,
200-500Ah Bank capacity
DC Fuse 200A
cross section rec. 35mm2 <= 5M length, (awg2 under 16')

Multiplus 120v AC (6AWG) (2)x GFCI outlets)

****(For grounding conductors, the minimum size is 4 AWG for copper conductors)****

 

[pvgirl]

If possible run your panels 2 in series, this will remove the need for a combiner box, and the 8 awg wire. Add a midnite solar baby box, and 30a breakers for your 2 strings of panels to server as disconnects

 

[AmpD]

If possible run your panels 2 in series, this will remove the need for a combiner box, and the 8 awg wire. Add a midnite solar baby box, and 30a breakers for your 2 strings of panels to server as disconnects

Not bad advice. Just not the way I wanted to go with it.

I realize the combiners are cheap units. I'm not ready to build my own yet. For prefab plug and play there just isn't a lot of options. I could likely get away with a Y adapters. At some point it will become a non-mobile system and power something more than a 30A tow behind. At that point I will upgrade the battery bank and run it in 48v with 4 panels on 1 controller and then load up the second controller with panels. For now I wanted to take advantage of each panel individually since shading can become more of an issue in a mobile system. The boxes should be able to handle what is coming thru them and give me both fuses and disconnects for the panels.

edit: I did look at the Windy Nation awg8 with mc4 connectors initially when I considered a Watt247 4 in 2 out box. I was under the impression the fittings weren't true MC4 or something akin to that. I wasn't sure if it would complicate things. The runs will be under 10' possibly less than 5' so losses will be minimal. There were other options for combiners as well. Most of them cheap. I was concerned about overheating diodes on the watts after reading a heated debate (duh dun cha) article elsewhere on DIYSolar.

 

[AmpD]

Should anyone want to see how the panels are packaged. It was a mistake to lay them flat like i did to open them. I was careful and dont think i tweaked them in any way. They all look good upon inspection. Ill know once i start using them I suppose.

If i were to do it over I should have waited until I had a way to test them or all the components needed to utilize them.

Since I’ve not seen any words of warning Ill start ordering more parts soon and proceed with step 1. Thanks again for looking at my thread. Ill update as things progress.

 

[Brett V]

How do you plan to shield/protect the batteries from things smashing in to them in case of a collision?

 

[RV8R]

Nice @AmpD

Thanks For Posting ??

 

[AmpD]

How do you plan to shield/protect the batteries from things smashing in to them in case of a collision?

I was planning on framing them in with angle iron and bolts

Edit: I found more info on the “attic” storage area. It is rated 300lbs. While that is enough to hold 200lbs of batteries I’m going to keep them on the floor level. I just don’t want to push it too close to the limit.

So it will be an angle iron frame supporting an insulated cabinet that can be used as a step for easier access to the attic.

I will build a wall panel down from the ceiling to the center on the front of the attic. This will make it a storage cubby on each side of the wall and mount the solar equipment to it allowing a shorter wire run and cleaner setup.

I was thinking about a temp switch heater setup for the battery compartment using low watt pads as well. Just started reading threads on that over here. Original thought plant heating mats.

 

[AmpD]

Changing it to a (2x) 24v 200ah, 200A bms battery setup. This will require an upgrade to the 320a class T fuse holders, 225a fuses, and (m8) cable lugs on both ends of the fuse run cables. Less wiring and fuses. Overall it will give higher capacity, better amperage draw, and if I go to 48v setup utilize all the batteries.

I went with 225a fuses since that is one step higher than the 200a bms and lower than the 400a wire rating. Should I go higher to avoid nuisance trips?

Excited to see the SCC's shipped. Thanks Pike!!

 

[AmpD]

Having discovered the Victron Distributor bar will not allow proper fusing my 150/45 SCC's if I decide to transition to 48v I've considered alternatives.

1) Blue Sea 2151 dual terminal fuse bar on the end of the distributor
2) Inline Fuses of proper 50a specification and higher amp mega fuse to complete circuit inside distributor
3) Doing away with Distributor and running a custom busbar after the lynx shunt
4) Inline 50A DC breakers instead of fuses and then higher amp mega fuse to complete circuit inside distributor

of these options I think DC breakers are my choice. They will be rated for all DC voltages my SCC's can put out. I will continue with the distributor since I like that it will notify me when a connection is not receiving power thru a mega fuse point. I will likely buy 5 packs of higher amp fuses for the inverter(s) so a couple extra can complete the circuit for the sccs and they will have appropriate protection as requested by manufacture thru the breakers.

I'm not sure if single or double pole breakers are best. My gut says single pole breaker on the positive line and leave negative line hooked up like normal. Of the single pole breakers I've been looking at I like the

Blue Sea UL-489 Model #7445

Is this an acceptable breaker for what I want to do?

 

[Rocketman]

Good job!
Here are a couple of thoughts…

Instead of using a Victron Distributor consider use the PowerIn and add a few nuts and bolts to make the fuse holders (see YouTube videos for process). That saves a few bucks. The only thing you lose is the led’s showing a blown fuse.

Also, consider a BMV712 or Smartshunt instead of Lynx shunt.

Also, going to your DC fuse box consider adding a Smart BP65(battery protect), this way it shuts off the dc loads as your battery gets very low, but before the bms’s go critical. It can make recovery much easier. Also gives you an easy on/off switch for the DC fuse block.

I would go 2s on the panels and eliminate the combiner.

Good Luck!

 

[AmpD]

All great advice. It would definitely save me some $$$.

I have considered those options at some point. Two reasons I have not gone that route.

The simplicity of the modular design.

Upgrade ability.

I have considered buying 2 distributors and stripping one down to a “power in” so I could have backup components but tossed that idea.

I’m actually after the “smart” component system to go along with the cerbo unit and all its reports for my setup. Not that money is unlimited but more building with the future in mind.

Another thought was sripping a distributor to a power in for the batteries and using the leftovers to make a custom busbar become a “lynx” distributor accepting both midi and maxi fuses.

At his point I’ve gone for the big blue label and for better or worse decided on most of the components.

The combiners are basically overblown Y adapters in my mind. Hopefully a bit better rated for the 28amps that mught pass thru them.

They will also give me something to learn with so when I upgrade some day I’ll better understand the beast.

Thanks for the battery protect input. Haven’t quite decided on what to do with the dc side of things aside from lighting and usb equipment. Sooner or later we will be looking at the DC cooling options. Adding alternater charging is also on the list.

For now the plan is to set it up as a “shore” power plant for a tow behind camper.

So how about those blue sea 7445 breakers i want to use between the scc and distributor?

I’m catching on to things but still a noob bumbling thru it.

 

[featherlite]

Blue Sea UL-489 Model #7445

If you use that type of breaker, how do they mount?

 

[AmpD]

On a faceplate with #6 screws

Mainly confused between single or double pole and which is best for this application.

 

[MiSh]

FWIW, Victron does not explicitly state whether using ferrules for their SCC connection is acceptable, but in their manual under a wiring safety precaution, they do state that you must use a high strand count wire for that connection. The inference being there must be a large contact area under the SCC clamping style connection which only a fine "flexible multi-stranded copper cable" can provide. Does a ferrule provide the same contact area as a clamped flexible, multi stranded wire? Maybe. The only reason I bring it up is because Victron believes there is a fire hazard if not connected properly.

 

[AmpD]

Agreed and thanks for the highlight and response on ferrules.

I think the debate in victron forum has left it to personal choice. Im still on the fence there. Likely not. Unless there is a need in the system somewhere. Properly torqued terminals and securing the line at connection points seems the biggest concern.

I plan on using marine ul listed wire from a supplier i learned here in the forums for most of it. Batterycablesusa. Windy nation for the mc4 cables.

The plan is evolving a little more as we go here. Im opting for 4 x 200ah batts now and will move the shutoffs to the battery lines requiring 4 in total then to the power in from the 9003e switches.

 

[AmpD]

Thank you to everyone who tried to warn me about the Dihool combiner box. I scored them on discount but once i had the junk in my hands it was just that.

One arrived broken so it sent them back.




The search continues but having seen it in my hands i get a better picture of how it all works. I’ll likely go Midnite Solar at this point. I considered making something with inline mc4 fuses, terminal bars, and a breaker but price, time, and overall build quality im better off coughing up the $$$ for the long term investment.

All also thinking about that cart frame battery box idea. I could likely put the whole build on that!

***** edit 3/16/2024
I've located stubli mc2/mc4-evo2 branch coupler connectors fmm & mff at alte store capable of 50a to allow parallel operation of 2 panels.
Might also create a passthru box of invest in a combiner box at some point.

 

[HarryN]

Just doing a quick scan, some possible things to double check.

- Since you are using 6 awg for some areas, it might make sense to just turn the 8 awg into 6 awg for consistency.
- Can your battery pack charge continuously at 2 kW from solar + other chargers that might be running at the same time in parallel? (it is just a question to double check)
- The inverter seems small power rating wise for a mobile setup like this
- The cables at the battery pack seem oversize considering essentially a 1 kW inverter and 2 kW of solar charging but maybe I am missing something. I would think that 2 awg would work vs 4/0 ?
- If it were me, I would put a blue sea 187 breaker in between each battery and the bus instead of class T fuses. This will make maintenance much easier.

Just some things to consider.

 

[AmpD]

Just doing a quick scan, some possible things to double check.

- Since you are using 6 awg for some areas, it might make sense to just turn the 8 awg into 6 awg for consistency.
- Can your battery pack charge continuously at 2 kW from solar + other chargers that might be running at the same time in parallel? (it is just a question to double check)
- The inverter seems small power rating wise for a mobile setup like this
- The cables at the battery pack seem oversize considering essentially a 1 kW inverter and 2 kW of solar charging but maybe I am missing something. I would think that 2 awg would work vs 4/0 ?
- If it were me, I would put a blue sea 187 breaker in between each battery and the bus instead of class T fuses. This will make maintenance much easier.

Just some things to consider.

Thank you for the input.

I will consider that wire change for sure. The 8awg was a limit imposed by the combiner box breaker.

Looking at 4 x Weize or Litime 200ah batteries with approximately 40a standard charge rate each. If I understood it right the 150/45 SCC's in synchronized charging will put out max 90ah. That should be about 22a to each battery once I get all 4 in place.

You are correct the Phoenix is a bit underpowered. We plan on having a multiplus unit to power bigger things. The phoenix is a starting point and something to run the smaller loads 24/7.

Yep I oversized a lot of cabling. Both for the electrical benefit as well as future proofing should I want demand more from it later. There is a minimal amount of wiring so the cost is not as prohibitive.

I had considered terminal block fuses but have read that class T's are the only ones with a high enough aic for LiFePo4. I didn't know breakers were an option at the battery terminal. I thought it was a safety thing requiring the class T.

Advice is always welcome!

 

[AmpD]

Well you got me thinking about the battery disconnects. I saw a video from nate at explorists.life and he states that most cutoffs are rated up to 48v max. I saw a few cheap cutoff switches rated for 60-80v. Not sure if I trust them.

The Blue Sea 187 is also rated 48v max so it won’t work when i upgrade from 24v. I was looking at this one. Any thoughts? This would provide both the shutoff and circuit protection if I put one on each battery line going to the distributor in place of T fuses correct?