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Conflicting info on whether the controller and inverter come off the same battery terminals.

You can configure everything through the mt-50. you need to refer to the manual for modifying the voltages though. There are built-in constraints that you need to understsnd or you'll be racking your brain trying to change the settings you want.

That said, you should be able to set equalization time to zero and equalization voltage the same as charge voltage without running into any constraint issues (i think).
 
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Thanks
You can configure everything through the mt-50. you need to refer to the manual for modifying the voltages though. There are built-in constraints that you need to understsnd or you'll be racking your brain trying to change the settings you want.

That said, you should be able to set equalization time to zero and equalization voltage the same as charge voltage without running into any constraint issues (i thin
 
Thanks,
So set the equalization to 24v?
Because charge voltage is 24?
Sorry if it’s a stupid question.
 
Charge voltage for 24v FLA should be at least 28.8 with a float of 27.2. However, that might be different for SLA.

I wonder if @Bud Martin knows the answer to that.
 
Over volt disc 32v
Charge limit 30v
Over volt rec 30v
Equal charge 29.2
Boost 28.8
Float 27.6
Boost rec 26.4
Low volt rect 25.2
Equalizer time 120
Boost time 120

I will put the equalizer time down to 0
Boost is already at 28.8
 
Over volt disc 32v
Charge limit 30v
Over volt rec 30v
Equal charge 29.2
Boost 28.8
Float 27.6
Boost rec 26.4
Low volt rect 25.2
Equalizer time 120
Boost time 120

I will put the equalizer time down to 0
Boost is already at 28.8
Set charge limit 29.2. and make sure equalizer time is 0. i think that'll solve your problem.
 
Did it a lot today.
Just set the time to zero.

One time it did it the mt50 read
BATTERY OVD
 
That's because of the constraints i mentioned. You may have to lower another setting in order to lower it. Refer to your EPEVER manual. It does document the constraints I mentioned.
I had to change the sealed to user, then it let me change the parameters. So I lowered the charge limit from 30v to 29.2.
I bet this fixes it.
Do I still need to have equalization time zero? Or can I leave it at the default of 120?

Thanks a lot for your time I greatly appreciate it!
 
I would leave it at 0 unless I explicitly intend to initiate an equalization cycle. That's for FLA batteries only. Don't you have FLA batteries? Why was it set to sealed? Anyway, I think it will take care of the problem, too. You're welcome! I was happy to help.
 
Curious about this
I always let the machines do it automatically? No probs?
I have no experience maintaining them in a solar system, and in his case, the equalization cycle is set too low to be an equalization cycle anyway. His inverter would go into over-voltage protect mode (sounds like).
 
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Ok update , I have 6 12v 149 ah batteries wires to make a 24v bank.
Controller and inverter connected to negative of bat 1 and positive of bat 6.
Everything has been working wonderfully, except every few day only during full full sun my system will clip off for just a split second, cutting off power to the house for a second.
I called the guy I get all my solar shit from. He asked where the controller and inverter are hooked to. I told him. He said. “NOOOOO I already told you before, inverter goes from positive bat 1 and to negative BAT 6. Controller goes to negative bat 2 to positive bat 6.” He said that he’s positive that’s the problem the charge controller is wreaking havoc on my inverter.
But everything I’ve ever read and all of the kind folks on here say they should be all hooked to the same terminal bat 1 positive bat 6 negative.
Should I try what he says he’s sure of?
Thanks
He is full of BS, if needed they could be wired direct to the batteries, a good bus bar is better. Add the fuses as suggested.
 
The
I would leave it at 0 unless I explicitly intend to initiate an equalization cycle. That's for FLA batteries only. Don't you have FLA batteries? Why was it set to sealed? Anyway, I think it will take care of the problem, too. You're welcome! I was happy to help.
batteries are sealed agm hitachi.
 
I have no experience maintaining them in a solar system, and in his case, the equalization cycle is set too low to be an equalization cycle anyway. His inverter would go into over-voltage protect mode (sounds like).
After giving this some actusl thought, no I wouldn't always leave equalization on. Tthat needs to be a monitired process and it shouldnt be part of the regular every-day cycle. equalization once every 3-6 months if necessary and only for FLAs.

When your batteries go through an equalization cycle they off-gas and will need to have electrolytes topped up. This process should also be monitored with a hydrometer so you know when it is done (they've actuslly hit a full charge). The purpose is to remove/burn off sulfate buildup from over-discharging or chronic under-charging. Excessive equalization will shorten your battery life.

I manage the process with my chassis FLAs and a bench top power supply. Eventually I may invest in a ground-mount panel and SCC to keep them floated, but for now, the rig gets started often enough that they don't get much chance to self-discharge.
 
Hisnreaso


His reason was the charge controller will wreak havoc on the inverter. And “how can the batteries charge if your taking a load off them from the same terminals” he said something to that effect.

If it’s already hooked up right then what could be making the system clip? I’m within range on all specs.
Controller is set for agm 450ah says max charge is 29.2 but the other day it said 29.8 something happening. And I need to figure it out before I go out of town for a few months. Don’t want to leave it with a issue.
that the funniest thing I have ever heard about writing ssc/inverter on batteries. . look for an other supplyer
 
Well it’s done it again a few times.
I lowered max charge to 29.0
Equalization time zero
Boost time 10min ( its lowest it will go)
Boost rec 26.4
Boost charge 28.8
Float charge 27.6
Over volt rec 30.0
Equal charge 28.8
Over volt disc 32.0
Charge limit 29.0
 
Not sure what to tell you at this point. Without accurate information about battery voltage, current draw, solar production, and inverter usage during and around the time it happens, we're just shooting in the dark. A thermal imager for temperature readings would help, as well. There's no guarantee that that information will identify the culprit either. You can start replacing components until the problem goes away, but...eh. Maybe its time to call a local professional to assist.
 
Well
Not sure what to tell you at this point. Without accurate information about battery voltage, current draw, solar production, and inverter usage during and around the time it happens, we're just shooting in the dark. A thermal imager for temperature readings would help, as well. There's no guarantee that that information will identify the culprit either. You can start replacing components until the problem goes away, but...eh. Maybe its time to call a local professional to assist.
Well I leave for two months tomorrow.
How would you leave the system?
I was gonna just shut off the inverter leaving everything else hooked up keeping bats topped.
Or should shut it completely down scc and all. Just Leave the bats at full. It’s summer so they won’t get cold, they should keep their charge I think.
 
shut it all down. Based on the problems you describe, I wouldnt leave it operating unattended for any extended amount of time. It’s clearly not stable and the reason isn’t identified with any confidence. Best to lose some battery to sulfate than a dwelling to fire.
 
shut it all down. Based on the problems you describe, I wouldnt leave it operating unattended for any extended amount of time. It’s clearly not stable and the reason isn’t identified with any confidence. Best to lose some battery to sulfate than a dwelling to fire.
Ok, thanks
What does lose some battery to sulfate mean. They should stay around 26 for a couple summer months months right? BTW I have all the proper fuses set up, between panels and scc, between scc and bats and between inverter and bats. Nothing ever gets hot to the touch.
 
What does lose some battery to sulfate mean
Lead acid batteries get plates coated with ‘sulfate’ when held at a lower voltage than full. Flooded batteries can be ‘equalized’ by a period of higher voltage charging that can desulfate them. J
 
Ok, thanks
What does lose some battery to sulfate mean.
12V explained above.
They should stay around 26 for a couple summer months months right?
They might drop a little voltage but should be fine. You might need to run an equalization cycle on them when you return Is all.

BTW I have all the proper fuses set up, between panels and scc, between scc and bats and between inverter and bats. Nothing ever gets hot to the touch.
Yeah, but still, based on these occasional unexplained problems, I can’t, in good conscience, tell you not to shut it down if you’re away for an extended amount of time. Of course, I’m just some dood on a forum. You’re free to do what you want.
 

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