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Darfon Gro Watt GBLI 5001 Battery Pack- worth a punt?

You can buy a USB charger that will charge the individual cell packs. It takes about a day per cell pack
You'll need crocodile clips too
 
I have DC power supply would that work?
No , unless you can vary the output to match the charge curve. Actually, given how unbalanced your packs are I wouldn't risk it as it'd be far too easy to overcharge one, then your shed's on fire. The other option you have if you just want to get them balanced is to disconnect every cell pack , and wire them all in parallel they should balance out within a few hours, BUT , you'll probably have the same issue with the last two strings when you start discharging again. I'd take those 2 out , separate them all , put a consistent load onto each and watch the voltage drop.... You've almost certainly got some duff cells in those last 2 strings. if you put a 20-50W load on each, start stopwatch , measure voltage every 30 secs , you should be able to spot the dodgy ones as they'll drop in voltage really quick. .....OR there may well be a cheap "cell testing kit" I don't know about , worth a google.
 
Still having issues with the batteries not using full capacity, I've reduced the pack size to 15kw with only the best batteries that are all balanced with each other but it still only using 10kw.
 
Has anybody had any luck with spot welding new cells in yet I'm currently having a go and have found out that if the nickel isn't pure nickel it doesn't weld very well at all so just waiting for some pure nickel strips to arrive also I have worked out that it is possible to squeeze an extra cell in each pack on the top corner by cutting some of the plastic surround away where the vacant cell is and then easily welding the extra cell in
 
@Tad we mix and match cells all the time. Shouldn’t be an issue if you add one new per cell-string.

Spot welding is heavily dependent on a number of factors: surface finish, electrode wear, material imperfections, etc. Many hobby welders have difficulty making consistent welds. We actually use and really like kWeld for getting into tight spots where it’s inconvenient or impossible to use one of the Sunstones.

Glad you’re using pure nickel! You‘d be surprised to know that there are reputable brands that use nickel-plated steel. It’s always fun watching the heavily-corroded conductors disintegrate with the slightest touch of the flappy wheel. On the bright side, that isolates individual cells so we’re often able to save a few within a cell string.
 
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update I have fixed my batteries, I have made two small packs of 3 in Parallel and 14 in series and Now have two BMS making a total of 30 Kw, The JK BMS works very well at balancing the batteries, Now the issue im facing is the inverter can't charge within the 4 hour off peak time, I am looking to purchase a Huawei R4875 power supply this 53.5v at 75amp, I am thinking of putting it in Parallel with solis inverter to boost the charging speed.

Will let you all know how it goes.
 
@Tad we mix and match cells all the time. Shouldn’t be an issue if you add one new per cell-string.

Spot welding is heavily dependent on a number of factors: surface finish, electrode wear, material imperfections, etc. Many hobby welders have difficulty making consistent welds. We actually use and really like kWeld for getting into tight spots where it’s inconvenient or impossible to use one of the Sunstones.

Glad you’re using pure nickel! You‘d be surprised to know that there are reputable brands that use nickel-plated steel. It’s always fun watching the heavily-corroded conductors disintegrate with the slightest touch of the flappy wheel. On the bright side, that isolates individual cells so we’re often able to save a few within a cell string.
Thanks for that feedback would you be interested in spot welding the existing copper and nickel back planes back onto the cells for me if so where are you based? Tia
 
I've tried to get answers from growatt technicians regarding what some of these codes mean exactly with no luck so now I'm in embarking on the journey of changing to lead acid mode which I have now successfully done with the right rs232 male to usb cable got the one with the driver disc as well and used mikehugs shinebus software had some tweaking issues to do with getting it to first start populating when it's connected to the growatt controller in usb property settings
I also purchased the right NTC sensor from amazon see attached just need to sort out BMS in a quandary over which voltage to get at the moment whether 48 volt or 52 as these batteries are actually 52v but 48v is a common modular voltage for these things and I noticed the parameter setting ranges from 44 to 58 View attachment 112351
Hi Tad, do you have the link for this amazon listing?
 
20221228_120749.jpg hi there i couldn't find a link but did take a photo of it it from my wife's phone hope this helps
 
Here's my effort at welding some Nickel strips on before then welding the copper and nickle back plane back on I went horizontal and one side and vertical on the other
Spot welding is an art and I think the better quality machine you have the better the job will be but anyway got it all back together and it seems to work ok20221122_130148.jpg
 
Just thought I'd show you this pic of my two batteries connected together 20221201_125630.jpg I also used the push button wake up button as BMS resetting switch so I don't have to keep taking covers off if the BMS trips out
 

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I also bought this active battery balancer the connection for the strings is the same 14 string connecta as the daly BMS so it's so easy just to simply unplug and plug the balancer in apart from the connector strip does need a bit slicing off 20221201_125904.jpg20221127_174745.jpgso that the pins line-up ok
 
That looks like some sort of network plug however there is only two wires coming off it perhaps if you could get a plug to fit and then splice the Amazon sensor into it maybe
 
Hi Paul and anyone else interested I've now fitted my third-party dalley BMS 48-volt 14 string 60 amp to my GBL I 5001 I've had a lot to learn with getting the settings right as I opted for the standard plug and play vms without smart function but now happy to say it's working really well i thought i'd share some settings with you see attached photo with attention to voltage battery charge and discharge low and high settings for the charge it seems that this is a range that voltage fluctuates briefly in and out of of the same for discharge voltage fluctuates in and out briefly until discharge and charge functions are satisfied so in other words it's a range see my notes on my settings the charging up has worked really well today day got 3.4 kilowatt hours to 57v and 100% charge
Just to be a bit clearer the voltage battery charge high and low settings I believe this to be a range that the battery starts the stop charging process if that makes sense! And likewise for the voltage battery discharge low and high settings I believe this is a range that the battery starts the stop discharging process
and after discovering the anderson plug problem I have now increased the power to 95% and now no more tripping out !?

View attachment 113172View attachment 113177
Hi Paul and anyone else interested I've now fitted my third-party dalley BMS 48-volt 14 string 60 amp to my GBL I 5001 I've had a lot to learn with getting the settings right as I opted for the standard plug and play vms without smart function but now happy to say it's working really well i thought i'd share some settings with you see attached photo with attention to voltage battery charge and discharge low and high settings for the charge it seems that this is a range that voltage fluctuates briefly in and out of of the same for discharge voltage fluctuates in and out briefly until discharge and charge functions are satisfied so in other words it's a range see my notes on my settings the charging up has worked really well today day got 3.4 kilowatt hours to 57v and 100% charge
Just to be a bit clearer the voltage battery charge high and low settings I believe this to be a range that the battery starts the stop charging process if that makes sense! And likewise for the voltage battery discharge low and high settings I believe this is a range that the battery starts the stop discharging process
and after discovering the anderson plug problem I have now increased the power to 95% and now no more tripping out !?

View attachment 113172View attachment 113177
I have the shine bus on my laptop but I have non of these settings in the list like vbat hi and low
Am I doing something wrong
 
It sounds like you have an old or different software version send me your email and I'll email you a copy of it
 
Note: everyone's GBLI5001 battery will have different SOC'S.
Upon tinkering with the sp2000 settings in lead-acid mode I couldn't work out why why the sp2000 was still tripping out with error code 118 when charging it turns out that because of lead acid float charging the vbat setting low and high are better off as the same voltage and are better set to the optimum charging value of the battery CAPABILITY - the standard setting is 58 volts for both the settings but because of age and degradation I have changed mine to 56.5 volts (which is 100-percent soc for mine) now the float charging voltage is not active anymore and the sp2000 is no longer tripping out so it's all about the battery capability given its age and degradation ie it will not charge anymore than it can.
And likewise for discharging the vbat low and high settings I think the same principle applies ie my battery discharges to about 49 volts at 50% soc so the setting I have changed to is 49 volts for both vbat low and high to keep the sp-2000 controller from tripping out (Or over discharging)

I'm not sure if the same or similar principles apply for a standard GBLI5001 battery regarding the over charging and over discharging with its original BMS might be worth a few tweaks though if anyone has still got the original setup !
 

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