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DC fuse caught fire! Help ?

So what does the unit do when you have clouds come and go? Does it go into shutdown due to not be able to supply enough power to the loads? Do you see it cycle on and off a lot?
 
All these spelling errors are so funny lol

Well the thing is these guys just buy the inverters and sell them , they dont even know what they are selling , thats why they are so cheap anyway but these machines have the functionality of more expensive inverters.

Funny thing is people pay twice or more sometimes for MPP or growatts but they are *pretty much* the same stuff, prove me wrong...

We all read the posts about how its one company that makes the designs and basically sells the designs to 2-3 factories in the same chinese city.

Just because a USA/EU distributor slaps his brand and markets it good , you think you are buying higher quality stuff, maybe a slightly different design with some better capacitors ( probably not ) , the functionalities are the same and the software too.

Thats the price you pay for cheap stuff... No or bad marketing... bad manuals , bad or no aftersale guarantee/ support...etc Its a bit more risk for sure.

But still I thought its pretty cool it has some dust filters . Other much more expensive inverters dont have dust filters or good smooth fans.

The overall build quality seems very nice if you ask me , not any different that the MPP or Growatts Ive seen. Im not talking about the internals because I don't know about that.

It only cost me 430e shipped from Aliexpress directly from the factory's warehouse in EU.

It's pretty crazy what you get for 430e , that is if the unit lasts.

I find it impressive that the unit can "blend" grid power and PV power and do it a fashion that makes the batteries pretty much useless for me.

It can even run batteryless which is pretty amazing and again you don't have to buy batteries so makes the system cheap. Many people dont get into solar panels because the inital cost is too high.

Batteries are so expensive and they don't last as long as PVs or inverters do.

For 2.3k euro I have a 3.1KW system which covers 80% of my electricty needs. ( 5000kwhrs out of 7000kwhrs yearly ) .

I know people like quality stuff but my system has a ROI 1 year ( if it lasts that long ) , getting victrons and good quality lifepo4 has a ROI of 5-6-7 years ( depending where you live ) and if you pay someone to install and do all the work in an expensive country you might as well skip install solar panels.

Sure I have to put the washing machine, dishwasher, air con and everything during day, it doesnt matter for me.

Now if it was a good buy or not , I guess time will tell .

I think this model's relatively good. Others you can dismiss outright. Fancy a 26k?

EASUN 26000w
 
So what does the unit do when you have clouds come and go? Does it go into shutdown due to not be able to supply enough power to the loads? Do you see it cycle on and off a lot?

My inverter didnt cycle on clouds with loads around 500watts , it stayed ON until the sun went down but it did cycle when I overload it ( 2kw hairdryer ) . So, it would cycle on cloud if I was overloading.

I also think it seems that it doesnt output the full wattage of my panels but I will double check tomorrow , so if my panels can produce 2.5kw , you cannot draw 2kw power for a hair dryer , it seems its less, so it seems the system is not perfect , but I did manage to run around 1kw from 3.1kw panels in full sun . I will have to test again to make sure. Please take all this with a grain of salt until I have tested the system further.
 
I think this model's relatively good. Others you can dismiss outright. Fancy a 26k?

EASUN 26000w

If you go to https://easunpower.com/collections/Pure-sine-wave-inverter you will see their inverters are properly rated , you are just seeing a 3rd party website that slaps graphics "26000w" on top of their products. So this is not EASUN problem , is that you look at 3rd party sellers that scam you with extra graphics and specs.

The company is good and as far as I know they dont overate their products . All their inverters that have been tested can draw continuous power along with their power ratings.

You have to use direct shops from the company/manufacturer. Dont use 3rd party . Its already a wild west
 
Well the thing is these guys just buy the inverters and sell them , they dont even know what they are selling , thats why they are so cheap anyway but these machines have the functionality of more expensive inverters.

Funny thing is people pay twice or more sometimes for MPP or growatts but they are *pretty much* the same stuff, prove me wrong...
You make good points. It does appear that it's all made in China by just a handful of factories. One only has to spend a few minutes on the Voltronic Power website to recognize a lot of brands. The colors may be different but the displays are in the same places, etc.

The prices are so cheap you can buy a spare and still be money ahead.

You even got me looking for a 120/240 split phase 60hZ model.
 
Yes, made in China or Taiwan. I thought that MPP Solar was in Taiwan ?

There are definitely good and bad products no matter where they are made though.

But what the heck is THIS ?!? Looks kind of like a washing machine or hair dryer.
It has RGB lights though so it MUST be great !
1664894525869.png
boB
 
Yes, made in China or Taiwan. I thought that MPP Solar was in Taiwan ?

There are definitely good and bad products no matter where they are made though.

But what the heck is THIS ?!? Looks kind of like a washing machine or hair dryer.
It has RGB lights though so it MUST be great !
View attachment 114904
boB

With RGB, it's an Asus ROG mobo! :ROFLMAO:

 
I also think it seems that it doesnt output the full wattage of my panels but I will double check tomorrow , so if my panels can produce 2.5kw , you cannot draw 2kw power for a hair dryer , it seems its less, so it seems the system is not perfect , but I did manage to run around 1kw from 3.1kw panels in full sun .

PV panels rated under "STC" conditions, not normal field conditions but 25 degrees C, flashed with one full sun.
Maximum power available under normal conditions, with panels hotter from sitting in the sun, is less.
Further reduced when sun is off angle. And when contaminants in the atmosphere reduce intensity, but you wouldn't know unless you measured.
Occasionally on a cold clear bright day, panels may deliver rated power.

It is normal for DC power from panels to peak around 75% to 85% of label rating.

Inverter/SCC's MPPT might harvest less than available power, typically in partial shade if it doesn't find the highest of multiple power peaks from the I/V curve. And of course there is some percentage loss generating AC due to inefficiency of electronics.

Your 3.1kW (STC) of panels could reasonably give 2kW to 2.5kW peak, when sun is at just the right angle.
If two parallel strings of PV panels, oriented differently, a lower peak could be delivered for more hours.

Battery is good to smooth out variations in power from the clouds. And for motor starting surge, typically 5x more than operating current. Even just old car batteries would work, but set low voltage disconnect quite high so they don't cycle to any significant depth, shut off loads as soon as sun drops low.
 
Thank you for explanations.

Btw , for this setup, I will use AC IN or batteries but I want to test the system fully batteryless for another setup.

Yesterday, when I did the loads experiment , it was full clear sun 12am without a single cloud on the sky. There is no shading on my panels from anything than clouds. Im at +30 latitude I think, so sun not very angled yet, my solar panels are flat on the cement flat roof. It was 31c. I had a hard time not to trip the inverter with more than 1kw which I thought it was weird, since the inverter was already outputting 250w~ to the battery in the morning half hour after the sun got out. ( Thats when I disconnected the battery because its only 12V 12AH and I also wanted to test it batteryless )

Today the inverter started with just solar panels, it flashes [Bp] though which means battery disconnected but its working fine.

I dont need good batteries because I will have loads during the day that will take care of all the energy the PV producing and just use the AC IN ( which will only draw the power it needs from the grid and blend the power with my solar panels , so if my AC asks 1.1kw and my PV are at 1kw , it will draw 100watt from AC input ) . Kind of similar to cheap small lead acid batteries.

I emailed the manufacturer and claims PV directly to AC would be 96-97%~ efficient at 330V. Most of the time when I ask them questions they don't know much about their products...

Give me a week and I will let you know how it works batteryless/AC in and with batteries.

I have a question that I couldn't find answer. It would be great if someone knows the answer.

The inverter has a BYPASS mode , what would be the maximum power output with bypass mode ? Is it still 3.6kw ? It doesn't say in the manual. Can I use the full 8kw(?) (230v , 40AMPS ) from the grid through AC in ? Or should I install a switch on my main panel to switch to grid whenever I want to draw like 6-7kw ?

I highly doubt , but is it 3.6kw or more, anyone knows ?

I bought a good AC switch ( to switch from inverter output to grid output )

( EDIT : I found this thread that discusses this mode but its a Growatt model : https://diysolarforum.com/threads/g...id-inverter-ac-bypass-mode.35910/#post-469631 )
 

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I have a question that I couldn't find answer. It would be great if someone knows the answer.

The inverter has a BYPASS mode , what would be the maximum power output with bypass mode ? Is it still 3.6kw ? It doesn't say in the manual. Can I use the full 8kw(?) (230v , 40AMPS ) from the grid through AC in ? Or should I install a switch on my main panel to switch to grid whenever I want to draw like 6-7kw ?

That's a good question, I also would like to know the answer. I use mine as UPSes (no PV yet) so always in bypass mode (our outlets are 230VAC with 30A breakers).

What I did was distribute the loads to use only a portion of the inverter's rated power and the DC wire's amps capacity. In the first floor I have a 1kw 12v 150Ah "portable AIO" that only supplies our (inverter-type) fridge that draws max of 85w. In the second floor is my main 3.5kw 24v 400Ah AIO that I use with my PC, but will also be used by the inverter-type aircon in the event of a brownout; total draw of both (PC and aircon) is around 1000-1100w.

I also have a 3kw 12v toroidal / LF inverter which I also used before with bypass, but its grid-switching output circuit failed. I later learned that this grid output switcher is the weakness of this model. It's currently with the dealer for (free) repairs, and when I get it back I will not use it with bypass, only with batteries.
 
... so if my AC asks 1.1kw and my PV are at 1kw , it will draw 100watt from AC input ...
I have a similar unit but the 5.5kW 48V version and I read this functionality different! The way I understand it is that as soon as the requested AC power is greater than your AIO can provide, it switches into bypass mode, i.e. an internal relay disconnects your internal inverter output and connects the AC input of the AIO to the AC output directly. So there is no blending or adding "just the missing required power". It also sounds reasonable that they do it that way because that way it is much simpler. Check your data sheet - mine says something about 20ms switch-over time. If there would be blending, the internal inverter would have to be EXACTLY in phase with your grid power all the time (as it does not know when your load would exceed the internally provided power) and there would be no switchover time.

Regarding the maximum load you can draw, please also check your datasheet as the switch-over relay has also its limits. And I would be surprised if they would have spend a relay that can handle 10kW (230V 40A) in a unit that is rated 3.6kW.
 
Sure, here is the pdf
I have a similar unit but the 5.5kW 48V version and I read this functionality different! The way I understand it is that as soon as the requested AC power is greater than your AIO can provide, it switches into bypass mode, i.e. an internal relay disconnects your internal inverter output and connects the AC input of the AIO to the AC output directly. So there is no blending or adding "just the missing required power". It also sounds reasonable that they do it that way because that way it is much simpler. Check your data sheet - mine says something about 20ms switch-over time. If there would be blending, the internal inverter would have to be EXACTLY in phase with your grid power all the time (as it does not know when your load would exceed the internally provided power) and there would be no switchover time.

Regarding the maximum load you can draw, please also check your datasheet as the switch-over relay has also its limits. And I would be surprised if they would have spend a relay that can handle 10kW (230V 40A) in a unit that is rated 3.6kW.

Hi ,

I bought specifically this inverter because it can run batteryless and also blend "just the missing required power", I dont want batteries for the moment . I talked back and forth with the factory many times to make sure that's how it is. The manual also states that "GRID AND PV WILL PROVIDE POWER AT THE SAME TIME". I understand most models in the market don't have that functionality ( which is pretty cool for a 430e inc. shipping machine huh ? ) . If you read the manual ( you will have a hard time understanding it ) you will see that the BYPASS mode is not enabled in those modes . It also says that both pv and grid will provide power at the same time and solar is the first priority ( in some modes )

I Think its 40A because in the manual it states to insert a AC 40A( edit : 50A ) switch breaker in the AC IN , that's what the other guys say that opened MPPs similar to mine ( he saw a 40A relay ) . But I really have no idea thats why I ask.

From what I understand , when no battery is present , the grid is blended with the solar and if you go over 3.6kw it totally switches to grid up to 40A in bypass mode.

There is no switchover time because the inverter is always in sync with the grid all the time.

Quoted from other post :

"2. the inverter feeds the energy created from the solar panels on to the bridged AC input/output lines by raising the AC voltage via internal semiconductor power switches (IGBTs), in the same way that a normal grid-tied feed-in tariff inverter does. The only difference is that this inverter can never feed energy back into the grid."

When battery is present , the grid is blended with the solar in such a way that the grid in bypass ( that has to do with the AC charger ) so you can draw up to 40A AND blend with the grid. Thats because the solar can charge the battery and leave AC charge alone .

Or at least thats what I understand from the manual and the other posts about that subject

Anyway , I guess we will have to test it.
 

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If you look real close at the internal of the unit, you should see thermal circuit breaker for the AC input too, they put that in in case someone do not install the external circuit breaker as suggested by the user manual.
 
If I'm reading the manual correctly, it recommends 10awg for ac input 50amp breaker.

Is this 240v or 120/240v inverter?
 
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