I don't recommend it. One of the early adopters of that method no longer recommends it either.
Why don't you recommend it?I don't recommend it. One of the early adopters of that method no longer recommends it either.
Why don't you recommend it?
Why doesn't the early adopter recommend it?
Agree but that is easily solvable with configuration.Two BMS on one battery requires special configuration. Only one BMS can be configured to balance.
Agree, the OP should have discrete current accounting which will be more cash.The state of charge as reported by each BMS is never right.
Which BMSs are you going to use?a 50 Amp dc to dc cost $150 more than 2 BMS's which allow 280 Amps.
Yes but they will charge the batteries with the correct voltage, how are you going to control the charging? Just push 280amps @ 14.6 until they are full and then what just keep charging?a 50 Amp dc to dc cost $150 more than 2 BMS's which allow 280 Amps.
Also the recommended max recommended charge current for the big blue prismatics is .5c(140 amps).Yes but they will charge the batteries with the correct voltage, how are you going to control the charging? Just push 280amps until they are full and then what just keep charging?
How quickly?Now the charge starts out with 280 Amps but quickly drops to around 100Amps
If that's true then I'm back to modifying the Balmer (if i have one or a smaller alternator.
Actually its says max charge current is 1c.EVE LF280N
This Datasheet corresponds to the LF280N, which is the newer model of 280 Ah cell produced by EVE. This is probably not what you have if you bought 280Ah EVE cells on the grey market (Alibaba, etc) unless you bought direct from the manufacturer...diysolarforum.com
That is too high.I would have to short the BMS C- and B- to find out but then the charge voltage will be 14.8v. Which is what the alternator puts out.