diy solar

diy solar

DON'T Install DC Isolators on Solar

You should only use equipment that is rated for the job it's intended for.
Even wire nuts have specification sheets. If you can't get a specifications sheet with installation instructions you probably shouldn't use the device.
 
You should only use equipment that is rated for the job it's intended for.
That's true. There may be gotchas overlooked that even those who know what they're doing may miss. The only danger of using plug type disconnect on DC is arcing during disconnection under load and incomplete plug insertion creating loose connection and fire risk. Blade or knife type spring actuated lever disconnect is safer but is more expensive.
 
How would you prevent this other than by labeling and education of operators to check whether a “thing that looks like a switch” can be operated under load.
By putting it in the specs for the part.

You can't protect against a sufficiently motivated idiot, but you can make the specs for the part clear.
 
Sounds more like "Don't install isolators outdoors, and especially, on rooftops" perhaps??

 
Absolutely

Physically, kinda.

A disconnect is designed to "disconnect" a circuit under load.
An isolator is designed to separate a part of the circuit from the rest. But should not be operated under load.
An isolator can be compared to the plug on your vacuum cleaner. You shouldn't unplug it, unless you have turned off the vacuum cleaner.
Thanks for the great explanation..wish I had known this earlier… when buying my IMO device last year I couldn’t get a solid explaination on that from anyone…when I asked no one knew any real facts.

when reading the sales info the “Disconnect Switch ” version was rated at a high number of full load disconnects ( 1000 +/- or something .??? ) discussed the speed of the disconnect and the distance of the contacts when open.…the isolater didn’t seem to state those same facts , but we’re very simalar on other stuff…confusing..!

I chose the SWITCH…..with about a 33% amperage safety margin for headroom, relative to my array max power..

I have switched it off and on a lot this year under load…..So far, No Problems …


It is a confusing topic ..

J.
 
Thanks for the great explanation..wish I had known this earlier… when buying my IMO device last year I couldn’t get a solid explaination on that from anyone…when I asked no one knew any real facts.

when reading the sales info the “Disconnect Switch ” version was rated at a high number of full load disconnects ( 1000 +/- or something .??? ) discussed the speed of the disconnect and the distance of the contacts when open.…the isolater didn’t seem to state those same facts , but we’re very simalar on other stuff…confusing..!

I chose the SWITCH…..with about a 33% amperage safety margin for headroom, relative to my array max power..

I have switched it off and on a lot this year under load…..So far, No Problems …


It is a confusing topic ..

J.
Best option is to stop the flow of current before operating the switch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JRH
By putting it in the specs for the part.

You can't protect against a sufficiently motivated idiot, but you can make the specs for the part clear.
Sure.

I had a discussion in another thread about how maybe you only need one switch rated disconnect per circuit, and the other ones can be… lesser… to save money ($50 per position). But only if you think you’re smart enough to know which one to flip in an oh shit situation.
 
I have these all over my installation i.e. solar pv feed in , battery feeds to inverters etc. To qualify ‘ unless in a case of emergency ‘ , that is.
Problem is people still need to know what the English means. And on my setup there’s too much sticker spam all over the place, so it’s really not clear what even someone who knows English should pay attention to.
 
By using pull out type disconnect like this one for $17. They are used with outdoor air con units. Cheap and foolproof (well almost "a fool" proof - don't stick your fingers inside with plug removed).
These aren’t necessarily truly reliable at full rating. ACs and HPs very very rarely go to full amps.

I’ve seen a few melted ones (on YouTube) when used for EVSE for example.
 
It's the difference between brakes on your car (a disconnect) and wheel chocks (an isolator). If your car is stopped, they do the same thing. If it's moving, one is useful and one is dangerous.

Always chock the tires before crawling underneath. Don't trust the brakes to keep it from rolling when your life depends on it.

US NEC and electrical safety, I think "Isolators" including circuit breakers are suitable to disconnect wires for human contact. Supplemental protectors look like breakers but don't provide same level of protection, which includes 1" gap between conductors fed from grid and the circuit you're going to work on, so a larger contact space inside than you might expect. Typical toggle switches don't provide that. (A visible, necessary if not sufficient, are longer plastic wings around terminals of breakers.) Then you lock-out tag-out.

An isolator doesn't have to be able to interrupt flowing current, but a breaker can do both.
 
My Solis internal DC disconnext recently failed. I only used the switch once so that I could move the inverter! I did _not_ switch it off under load (even though it doesn't say not to). It's supposed to have anti-arcing built in but IMO (Edit: In My Opinion!!! Apologies for confusion!) I wouldn't really trust any high voltage DC switch. I certainly won't be replacing an internal DC switch so I just bypassed the switch. Turning off all the loads has to be the only safe way before isolating/disconnecting. Doing maintenance on a dark cloudy day is a good idea too!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top