Affordable DC Generators
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- Oct 11, 2021
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Can you send me detailed information?It’s not that difficult. It takes a couple of relays. One relay takes the NO contact from the inverter and opens a 240 line from the inverter out. These two lines go to the Generac. On loss of 240 the generator starts running. When power is stable it provides a 12v signal back. I use that to close a contractor, that way you do not supply the inverter until you have stable power. There is another pair you will need. You need to supply the GenSet with 120v for the battery charger. With these three things you can get rid of the transfer switch. I also add a indicator when the contractors close. (I am using 2 SS relays for the contractor, one for L1 and one for L2)
Great post. That all makes sense. Any suggestion on the brand of relays for the 240v line?It’s not that difficult. It takes a couple of relays. One relay takes the NO contact from the inverter and opens a 240 line from the inverter out. These two lines go to the Generac. On loss of 240 the generator starts running. When power is stable it provides a 12v signal back. I use that to close a contractor, that way you do not supply the inverter until you have stable power. There is another pair you will need. You need to supply the GenSet with 120v for the battery charger. With these three things you can get rid of the transfer switch. I also add a indicator when the contractors close. (I am using 2 SS relays for the contractor, one for L1 and one for L2)
I did replace the gas valve a few years ago ($200) and it will start up with ether. I think it probably needs a valve lash adjustment and maybe a new intake gasket. The alternative is spending another $5k on something that is rarely used which could be put towards buying more LiPo4 batteries from signature solar to build up the bank.If you have a Generac that doesn't have two wire start capability then it's pretty old. I have a yard full of these square bodies. You are wasting your time trying to make it work. They are not reliable at this point and you'd be better off spending your time making a better game plan then investing in a 15-20 year old square body Generac.
I would have to see a picture of the unit or a model number but valve lash will definitely cause a hard start.I did replace the gas valve a few years ago ($200) and it will start up with ether. I think it probably needs a valve lash adjustment and maybe a new intake gasket. The alternative is spending another $5k on something that is rarely used which could be put towards buying more LiPo4 batteries from signature solar to build up the bank.
I am pretty sure it needs the valves adjusted. I should clarify that it will start with 'ether' is actually a non-ether based carb cleaner as recommended by one of the local generac technicians in my area to get the unit up and running after sitting for some time. So my unit will start for a few days after getting it going but then it's hard to start. One tech thought the intake gasket might be bad and the unit has to somewhat re-prime itself before starting again.I would have to see a picture of the unit or a model number but valve lash will definitely cause a hard start.
The choke assembly in the air cleaner will not engage so that will cause a rough start.
A lot of those mixers will also have the throttle plates loosen up and go basically wide open because the screws vibrate out.
I would also not use ether to try to start it as they really like the backfire and melt the plastic air box. I would figure out why you have a fuel issue first.
If you are fixing this yourself this is one thing, but if you are paying a pro to come out you are going to reach a point where it is cost prohibitive to fix this.
If you don't need a generator that much I would suggest just go by a quality portable like a Honda for a WinCo and just manually run it when you need generator power. Trying to save an automatic standby that is 15 years old is going to get expensive very fast and probably not worth it.
I'm not sure where you are, but I have always wanted to grab a 10kW-15kW back end that I can gear up from a tractor PTO. I have a 10kW square body that a friend gave me, but it still runs fine and I don't want to rip it apart.But I have a trailer full of them going to scrap.
I'm not sure where you are, but I have always wanted to grab a 10kW-15kW back end that I can gear up from a tractor PTO. I have a 10kW square body that a friend gave me, but it still runs fine and I don't want to rip it apart.
Update on 16kw- I spent some time and did a valve lash adjustment. The cylinder closest to the enclosure had .003 valve lash at TDC. The cylinder closest to the removable panel had some issues. One valve was about .001 and the other one was probably around .007-.008. I re-adjusted both to .003. After adjustment the generator still isn't getting any gas. I inspected the two hoses connecting to the replaced gas regulator - OUT 1 goes to the NG hose and OUT 2 goes to LP. The bottom of the hose was starting to split a bit where it connects to the barb. I cut both hoses about 1" shorter and now they are snug w/ the clamp. Generator cranks but will still not start. Gas company came out to refill my propane tank this weekend and they validated the tank connected to the generator has 13.5wc. The unit is not getting gas during cranking. Another forum had someone w/ the same model (e.g. 0052541 model, serial 4927167, 16000 watts) and said the plunger and regulator coil is likely the problem. Ordering a new gasket, plunger and regulator coil. 12v is getting to the coil during crankup so this is most likely the key issue preventing this thing from operating normally. Another $53.00 to zillerelectic.com and hopefully ill figure out this week if that is the end of these problems.Bummer, that's a big load for anything to handle. I get it.
Your symptom sounds exactly like valve adjustment or a weak engine like low compression. A lot of these older units don't have an hour meter so I see a lot of calls for diag. I show up and it's the same story. Hasn't been serviced in years, blah blah blah. Cranks non stop. I jam my thumb down the hole of the throttle body and it fired right up and runs like new.
I think if they fault out for whatever reason, they sit for weeks, lose prime, then can't get restarted within the 3 crank cycles.
The other issue with this unit is that the engine, electronics, and fuel system are still being made. The back end is discontinued so just be aware of that. I don't have that parts, I only stock the AVR, battery charger, and other small parts for the old square body.
10 to 12 at the burners/post regulator.I think LP should be 10-12" off the top of my head.
I wouldn't worry about any of that hose stuff. The solenoid is troublesome especially if it's the shorter version.
A quick test is to tap it while cranking, if it immediately it's the solenoid. I'd replace it with the taller version anyway. You have to get the matching plunger as well. Probability is high for that part failing compared to everything else.
10 to 12 at the burners/post regulator.
But should be 12 to 14" feeding the control.
Spec is to show what a regulator can control.I can't tell you off the top of my head for that old of a unit but most would not be that high. The liquid cooled units go up to 14".
So I would advocate to check the placard or owners manual for the spec.
The other issue I have with that is there shouldn't be more then a 1" drop from static to running. So you would not see a spec that varies that much going into the reg and the other test port after the fuel solenoid.
Not sure what you are referring to. The generator has a demand regulator inside which typically has a window of 10-12" of operating pressure for LP. Nothing else is allowed.Spec is to show what a regulator can control.
Burner pressure needs to be constant 10” post regulator. The regulator can handle 14” and output constant 10” some regulators are set to 2PSI and output constant 14” to the equipment regulator.