Generac to Sol-Ark 15kw

[JamesB]

I removed the generator L1 and L2 wires from the transfer switch and connected them to the Sol-Ark.
I ran 4/0 XHHW from the ATS gen lugs to the Load output of the Sol-Ark, and to the Neutral block.
I ran a 4 AWG copper from the ATS ground lug to the Sol-Ark ground lug.
I used Ilsco KUP-L-Taps to tap my 200A Service feeds ahead of my ATS and after my main breaker, and connected them to the Sol-Ark Grid port.
I Disconnected the Common, +12 and transfer wires from the transfer switch and the generator. I repurposed 2 of them for two-wire start.
I left the N1, N2 and T1 wires in tact.
Inside the transfer switch there are solenoid coils that energize to move the switch. I disconnected one of the spade connectors from each of the coils and taped it off.

Doing this has several advantages:
- I converted my ATS to a manual bypass that can completely bypass the Sol-Ark if needed. Even though the Sol-Ark is bypassed it still has power from the grid.
- I didn't have to wire separate branch circuits for the generator charger and heater circuits.
- If I ever want to remove the solar inverter I can put the original wiring back EXACTLY as it was before with very little effort.
- Simplified wiring of the Sol-Ark.

Going to have to give that a shot. Thanks for all the help and breaking it down like that. I owe you a few drinks if you ever make it up to NH!

 

[JamesB]

I removed the generator L1 and L2 wires from the transfer switch and connected them to the Sol-Ark.
I ran 4/0 XHHW from the ATS gen lugs to the Load output of the Sol-Ark, and to the Neutral block.
I ran a 4 AWG copper from the ATS ground lug to the Sol-Ark ground lug.
I used Ilsco KUP-L-Taps to tap my 200A Service feeds ahead of my ATS and after my main breaker, and connected them to the Sol-Ark Grid port.
I Disconnected the Common, +12 and transfer wires from the transfer switch and the generator. I repurposed 2 of them for two-wire start.
I left the N1, N2 and T1 wires in tact.
Inside the transfer switch there are solenoid coils that energize to move the switch. I disconnected one of the spade connectors from each of the coils and taped it off.

Doing this has several advantages:
- I converted my ATS to a manual bypass that can completely bypass the Sol-Ark if needed. Even though the Sol-Ark is bypassed it still has power from the grid.
- I didn't have to wire separate branch circuits for the generator charger and heater circuits.
- If I ever want to remove the solar inverter I can put the original wiring back EXACTLY as it was before with very little effort.
- Simplified wiring of the Sol-Ark.

So I swapped the cables and at first I thought we were all good. For some reason, I'm getting a charger missing AC code now. Have to see what that could be from.

 

[Think About It]

So I swapped the cables and at first I thought we were all good. For some reason, I'm getting a charger missing AC code now. Have to see what that could be from.

No voltage on T1.

 

[JamesB]

No voltage on T1.

I wonder if I messed something up on the generac controller where it's connected to inside the ATS.

 

[JamesB]

I wonder if I messed something up on the generac controller where it's connected to inside the ATS.

 

[JamesB]

No voltage on T1.

So no voltage on T1 port on generac ATS controller. I do have 120v on N1 and N2. Is it possible to splice T1 into N1 or N2 safely? Otherwise I likely need to add a breaker specifically for the T1 wire or replace the generac controller.

 

[SilverbackMP]

As soon as someone says generac to me I decline working on it myself
It’s not a unique problem to generac I just like picking on them because I was Onan trained
A lot of guys are scared to touch anything modern these days because they don’t know what will happen will they be on the hook if it blows up ect

Once you touch them they become unpredictable.
Best to just keep them as the light duty short and interval back up machines they are and burden them with trying to charge batteries

Wait. Onan actually trains people?

My parents had one of those pieces of shit. Circuit board (allegedly) kept going out (right after warranty expired). They had Cummins replace it twice and about 5 trips for a technician at $750 each before they finally said screw it and bought a $1000 big box gas unit.

The tech would basically stare at his diagnostic laptop for three hours each trip and was clueless.

Never again, Onan.

 

[DPC]

They did decades ago
Now there’s no more Onan so don’t hold your breath on cummins

 

[SilverbackMP]

They did decades ago
Now there’s no more Onan so don’t hold your breath on cummins

This was 20+ years ago.

I still have Cummins…a 4BT pushing 30kw. Nothing to mess up and it can be rebuilt by an ape like me.

 

[DPC]

There is more onan
Hasn’t been in decades
After about 1994 everything went electronic in a big way
The electronics do not age well

A set like a bge or nhe is completely reliant on a pair of boards
They need an owner that’s prepared to do a lot of prep and use them often
Something as simple as a dirty set of slip ring can kill a board

Flight systems makes new boards that are reliable
Dinosaur boards has Chinese copies made of old boards too Cheap


As for the techs today I can speak to that
I was well trained I could rewind them and did
These days you get what you get

 

[SilverbackMP]

There is more onan
Hasn’t been in decades
After about 1994 everything went electronic in a big way
The electronics do not age well

A set like a bge or nhe is completely reliant on a pair of boards
They need an owner that’s prepared to do a lot of prep and use them often
Something as simple as a dirty set of slip ring can kill a board

Flight systems makes new boards that are reliable
Dinosaur boards has Chinese copies made of old boards too Cheap


As for the techs today I can speak to that
I was well trained I could rewind them and did
These days you get what you get

I’ll look tomorrow and see what model it is. It’s still there, next to it’s shared propane tank, like a relic in the Shannara Chronicless.

I thought about trying to get it running as a back up to a backup to a backup and then decided I’d rather put my head in a vice or better yet, get another Predator from Chinese Freight.

 

[DPC]

I still have Cummins…a 4BT pushing 30kw. Nothing to mess up and it can be rebuilt by an ape like me.

I know that unit
Electrical the same as the EK30
Very very reliable but old now
You should replace the outboard bearing on the gen end if it’s original
Not a big job but will save you grief later

Those commercial units were some of the best ever made

Only thing I have seen recently that I like as much in a big diesel are the Rolls-Royce units
An mtu product
The electrics sr good but I love the big Maybach
Those engines a pure magic

 

[DPC]

I’ll look tomorrow and see what model it is. It’s still there, next to it’s shared propane tank, like a relic in the Shannara Chronicless.

I thought about trying to get it running as a back up to a backup to a backup and then decided I’d rather put my head in a vice or better yet, get another Predator from Chinese Freight.

What is it a bge?
I bet it is
I have 3 of them in my shop
I pick them up for scrap value to free
No one will pay to fix them because they can buy a Chinese unit for less than the boards

Sad thing is the engines are almost always good to excellent
The statist and rotors are fine but the regulator or safety board has failed

I have a good mind to copy a really board and swap in a Stamford regulator
But no one would ever want it no tech would ever work on it

 

[SilverbackMP]

I know that unit
Electrical the same as the EK30
Very very reliable but old now
You should replace the outboard bearing on the gen end if it’s original
Not a big job but will save you grief later

Those commercial units were some of the best ever made

Only thing I have seen recently that I like as much in a big diesel are the Rolls-Royce units
An mtu product
The electrics sr good but I love the big Maybach
Those engines a pure magic

This one is branded Ingersol Rand…of course it’s highly likely they contracted it out. I’ve been thinking about a light rebuild just for preventative maintenance.

I’ll probably buy a 15KW Kubota at some point in the next year or two and will mess with it after that.

 

[DPC]

Rand?
I’m wrong it’s not the same as the ek
Not sure I would need to see it

 

[SilverbackMP]

Rand?
I’m wrong it’s not the same as the ek
Not sure I would need to see it

I’ll snap a photo or three tomorrow,

 

[JamesB]

So no voltage on T1 port on generac ATS controller. I do have 120v on N1 and N2. Is it possible to splice T1 into N1 or N2 safely? Otherwise I likely need to add a breaker specifically for the T1 wire or replace the generac controller.

No voltage on T1.

So I got this ironed out, and it appears to be working. That being said, as wired I think there is a resilience issue. If the util power goes out, the controller card will no longer be getting power. In that situation, the trickle charger and the oil heater both cease to function. Isn't that correct?

 

[DIYrich]

What your suggesting is to keep the generator and the utility ahead of the inverter. The inverter would not know whether the power was coming from the generator or the utility. Therefore you couldn't program the inverter to act differently on generator versus grid.

According to Sol-ark, and implied by instructions in the manual, the inverter can tell if grid or generator connected on the grid line. That is also the way large generator is attached (exceeds capacity of Gen Input). I'm guessing that if the Sol-ark sees a "stiff" grid input line, then it assumes Grid. If the input is not stiff, then it assumes generator, and uses generator parameters.

 

[SilverbackMP]

@DPC I created a thread instead of my continuing to hijack this one:

My SMA system install so far and precharge questions

Here’s some photos of my install so for. First we have the panel mounts. It’s three separate Sinclair Skymounts 2.0 that will hold seventy two 375 watt panels with twelve each in series to produce just shy of 600v each string on an extremely cold/sunny day. I split the mounts into three to...

diysolarforum.com

 

[Goin'Solar]

I removed the generator L1 and L2 wires from the transfer switch and connected them to the Sol-Ark.
I ran 4/0 XHHW from the ATS gen lugs to the Load output of the Sol-Ark, and to the Neutral block.
I ran a 4 AWG copper from the ATS ground lug to the Sol-Ark ground lug.
I used Ilsco KUP-L-Taps to tap my 200A Service feeds ahead of my ATS and after my main breaker, and connected them to the Sol-Ark Grid port.
I Disconnected the Common, +12 and transfer wires from the transfer switch and the generator. I repurposed 2 of them for two-wire start.
I left the N1, N2 and T1 wires in tact.
Inside the transfer switch there are solenoid coils that energize to move the switch. I disconnected one of the spade connectors from each of the coils and taped it off.

Doing this has several advantages:
- I converted my ATS to a manual bypass that can completely bypass the Sol-Ark if needed. Even though the Sol-Ark is bypassed it still has power from the grid.
- I didn't have to wire separate branch circuits for the generator charger and heater circuits.
- If I ever want to remove the solar inverter I can put the original wiring back EXACTLY as it was before with very little effort.
- Simplified wiring of the Sol-Ark.

Brilliant! Thank you. This is exactly what I needed. I've spent days trying to find this very solution but for the new EG4 18k.