Anyone out there have experience with this inverter? I have a quasi- no- name 3000w 24v inverter that's giving me 75a output max with a couple of space heaters attached for testing and the output voltage is sagging down to 92. Not happy with the usable wattage. Amazon has them for $479, anyone have any other suggestions for a decent 3000w 24v inverter? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JQKQQTP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KEKfFbMAKDNEN (BTW- my battery's a BYD 3kw Big Battery powerwall)
Giandel PS-3000KAR24V inverter
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gnubie
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I can't tell you about that particular unit unfortunately, but I can say my PS-2000QAR (24V, 240V AC) Giandel can hold 236VAC with a 2000W kettle on it. It will run at least long enough to bring a full kettle of water to full boil. I wouldn't recommend running any of these cheaper end of the scale inverters full tilt for extended periods though.
is the quasi-no-name 3000W 24V inverter pure or modified sine wave? Modified sine wave will often read lower voltage because of the timing of the "steps" and how voltmeters react to the total harmonic distortion. It can get worse under load.
does it read 120V on a voltmeter with no load? what gauge wires attach it to the battery?
I got the impression that you have something different than what you linked. I may be mistaken, but I think Will has recommended that brand.
Edit: yes, he did:
I got the impression that you have something different than what you linked. I may be mistaken, but I think Will has recommended that brand.
Edit: yes, he did:
The link I copied earlier was for the Giandel inverter I'm considering purchasing. My inverter is listed here: http://powerreliable.com/index.php/..._to_AC_Pure_Sine_Wave_Solar_Power_Inverter-14
It does read 120 volt without load and I'm running 2 gauge battery cable.
It does read 120 volt without load and I'm running 2 gauge battery cable.
Ah.. I have the 2kW version of that brand (it's my "backup" inverter now), and I never had any trouble with voltage sag even pulling >1600W with the microwave and a few other goodies. I suspect you have a defective unit.
Thanks, I'll see if I can get in touch with them.
Metalophile
Analytical Chemist
I bought a Giandel 24V / 120V 2000W pure sinewave inverter, and I have been having trouble with low voltage AC output as low as 90 VAC. I first noticed that it had difficulty running my microwave during testing. Then, when I plugged my refrigerator in during a power outage, the compressor wouldn't start (!). I have been e-mailing their tech support, and they seem to think it is a humidity problem. They told me to heat the insides with a hair dryer. That helped some, but I am getting between about 98 - 105 VAC out. I think these folks are based out of Australia where they don't have the sort of humidity that I have in Arkansas. I'm using it inside my garage, which isn't dripping wet, but it is more humid than inside my air conditioned house. We did have a tropical storm blow through which made things quite humid for 2-3 days. I looked inside for any type of trim pot adjustment for voltage. I found one crude pot, but tweaking it slightly didn't seem to have an effect. Next thing I'm going to try is to remove the cover and put my dehydrator motor/heater directly on the heater, and leave it there for a couple of hours. If that doesn't work I will be talking to them about a return. . .
gnubie
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Humidity here in my part of Australia swings from over 90% in the height of the wet season to under 40% in the depths of the dry season. Anyway, humidity has nothing to do with it unless it's fog level (the inverter components are wet) or under 5% (huge static discharge issues). If anything a humid environment allows the air to soak up more heat so when the fans run it'll cool faster.
Microwave, highly inductive load.
Fridge, perhaps a highly inductive load too, depending on it being an inverter type etc
I'm betting that the poor power factor of your device is the issue. Slap a mostly* 1000 W resistive load on it, say that hair dryer on low or medium depending on its rating, and check the voltage while doing that. If you have something that is more resistive than that, say a bar heater, several 100W incandescent lamps, that would be even better. If you can get it up to around 1000W ?
*the blower motor is in series with the heater element so there is an inductive component to the load
Microwave, highly inductive load.
Fridge, perhaps a highly inductive load too, depending on it being an inverter type etc
I'm betting that the poor power factor of your device is the issue. Slap a mostly* 1000 W resistive load on it, say that hair dryer on low or medium depending on its rating, and check the voltage while doing that. If you have something that is more resistive than that, say a bar heater, several 100W incandescent lamps, that would be even better. If you can get it up to around 1000W ?
*the blower motor is in series with the heater element so there is an inductive component to the load
Metalophile
Analytical Chemist
Still at 104 VAC, and I had a toaster oven running on it all afternoon pulling 600 watts, and it was 104 volts then. . . Past few days have been relatively low humidity. Something else I have noticed, my battery is LiFePO4, and when it is fully charged over 27 volts, the inverter output has been running a bit lower ~99 VAC. But over the flat part of my battery voltage ~26.3 volts currently I am getting 104 VAC out. Almost seems inversely proportional to input voltage. I'm trying to run my battery down to 24 volts and see if the voltage out runs higher.
gnubie
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Are you measuring with an RMS capable meter or is it just an averaging meter?
The AC voltage rising with lower battery voltage is interesting. It's almost as if the reference that regulates the HVDC section of the inverter is crook. I think return is the right course.
The AC voltage rising with lower battery voltage is interesting. It's almost as if the reference that regulates the HVDC section of the inverter is crook. I think return is the right course.
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Metalophile
Analytical Chemist
I'm not sure about my multimeters. I have an expensive Fluke 27 meter and a cheapo Cen-Tech 95683 from Harbor Freight. They both give me the same VAC reading, and from my understanding an averaging meter still gives you an the correct reading *if you have a pure sinewave* which my inverter is supposed to generate. My next step is to break out my oscilloscope and take a look at the waveform to see what kind of wave it is producing.
I have two of the 24 volt, 4000/8000 watt Giandel inverters. No issue with them and they have been working great. I have pushed one of them in tests to 3700 with no problems with fridge and microwave and other circuits on at the same time, but normally they run 800 to 2700 watts regularly.
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Metalophile
Analytical Chemist
Well, I did dig up my oscilloscope and discovered that the output waveform looks exactly like a "modified sine wave" inverter waveform, not a pure sinewave inverter waveform. Either my unit is malfunctioning or it is a knock-off, not what it is purported to be! 
gnubie
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Yep, that's MSW and would explain the peak voltage reading too. Can you post a photo of the label on the device? If it was a PSW design where some how the PWM board had flipped into MSW mode (it's the same thing, just a different jumper config) I'd expect to see a lot of ringing and spiking on the edges from the PSW output inductor.
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Metalophile
Analytical Chemist
Here's a photo of the inverter.
Metalophile
Analytical Chemist
I opened it up again and looked inside. Main board is marked "PM-2000KSC" Ver 5. Which I believe is their model number for one of their modified sine inverters. I also found a Youtube Video from Jehu Garcia's review of Giandel's 3000W pure sine inverter and that one has a large inductor and a medium sized inductor, while mine only has the medium sized inductor. Clever bait and switch by changing the label on the outside. Just sent the complaint to the ebay vendor. . .
