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Got Busted by Electrical Power Police..Now Need help with Permits

Sort of related, anyone know if the utility company can determine the amount of energy consumed during that multi week period between solar equipment install and when the utility company installs the new meter? I'm thinking they just estimate power use from previous use until they install the meter.
 
When I was setting up my solar I tried it and back fed the grid and they were at the house in a half hour to scold me.....They are quick so they can catch people in the act. My permits were in just not complete.

And as everyone has said....everything is supposed to be UL listed that you use and maybe even have to be on their approved components list.
And this gets me. Why do some vendors advertise their ULtested wares as being the same as UL Listed! They are not the same.
 
Hang on. There are several authorities that offer "Listing" service. These are UL, ETL, and CSA. All can provide a mark that says the word "Listed", and they are all acceptable in the US and by utility companies. TUV on the other hand can test a product for compliance to UL1741, but to my knowledge, they cannot offer the mark with the word "Listed" unless they are a partner affiliated directly with UL in that laboratory, and that is when you get into issues with the AHJ or the Utility. Some care, some don't and there is a wide misunderstanding about it because it doesn't say "Listed" unless it is the UL mark evaluated by a TUV/UL Laboratory. At least, that's how it was when I was doing it 14 years ago.

The Hoymiles inverters I sell are Listed by CSA, they bear the mark "cUS Listed" and comply with UL1741 and FCC, and they are on the CEC approved list in California. They start at $147 at 350W for a single, $206 for a dual at 700W, or $299 for the Quad at 1500W, or $0.21/Watt AC. A 5kW Sol-Ark is around $5k, or $1/Watt AC, so that's definitely not the starting cost for grid-tied anymore. I can provide a permit plan set with an engineering stamp and a design review is $1079, and where I live, the permit, utility, and NCUC fees add up to less than $300. So that $15k estimate is highly dependent on where you live. My Enphase system with the battery and a ground mount ballasted rack was close to $15k, but if I had known about Hoymiles at the time, it would've been about $7k with the battery. My bad for not doing enough research.
Is UL tested and UL listed the same thing? How does each come into play when dealing with our utility providers?
 
Sort of related, anyone know if the utility company can determine the amount of energy consumed during that multi week period between solar equipment install and when the utility company installs the new meter? I'm thinking they just estimate power use from previous use until they install the meter.
As long as you are not exporting (and maybe importing a minimum level) they are unlikely to have a system to flag accounts. Simple example: when I go on vacation my average daily consumption drops from ~30kWh to ~15kWh after 24h. Likewise, it is perfectly legal to support an appliance via an alternative source of power for part of the day, or to just unplug it.

Specific to determining consumption, the meter still operates. Your PTO is typically not in place until the new meter is installed, so if the meter over-charges you for exporting power that is your problem and not theirs.
 
Is UL tested and UL listed the same thing? How does each come into play when dealing with our utility providers?
It's not the same thing.

Utility companies aren't your local AHJ. They can (and probably do) have an approved list of equipment/inverters that they will allow to connect to the grid. If you think your local county permitting office is strict, just wait until you encounter the electrical engineers at the utility company.

If you're off-grid, then UL "tested" may get you through with your local AHJ. Every locale differs, but I think you'd get laughed out of the room by your utility if you try to show up with a grid-tied inverter without the full "UL Listing" that they can verify in the UL database. They also will probably frown upon DIY work.

Source: I called my utility and AHJ about doing a DIY grid-tied system and got laughed at.
 
If you have appliances that come on by timer (think pool pump), or contactor (think AC Condenser unit)

Wire your grid tie inverters in behind the contactor where your AC Compressor is tied. That way you only grid tie when the compressor is on, and you're guaranteed the AC Compressor, and Condenser fan will use up all your solar power.
 
I'm sure any of the utility workers in the area on a daily basis have a sharp eye on my off grid system to make sure it isn't connected in any way or affects safety of anyone. I would do the same. I work with megawatts of power maintaining manufacturing plants and constantly aware of what could go wrong and how serious even a small incident can get. Utility workers have to repair things that go wrong due to mistakes and see non UL listed items all the time. I doubt it was neighbors.
 
Sort of related, anyone know if the utility company can determine the amount of energy consumed during that multi week period between solar equipment install and when the utility company installs the new meter? I'm thinking they just estimate power use from previous use until they install the meter.
The PV rapid shut down disconnect should be open until the two way meter is installed, as the system isn’t certified to generate until the meter is set.

Problem solved
 
Only utilities with AMI meters and mesh networks. I believe those utilities are in the minority due to costs and dried up 2009 stimulus money.

Just because your meter is digital doesn’t make it “smart” and the utilities aren’t monitoring your usage 24/7. My meter (AMR style) is only read by the utility once a month when a van drives down then street.

You can find out easily by signing into your power company account and see if the have a usage " dashboard" where you can see your daily and hourly usage.
 
The power company that supplies my Cabin in TN provides detailed stats of consumption down to the minute online. Neighbor tried a grid tie one weekend. Power company and sherif was there in about 30 minutes from when neighbor fired up the inverter. They made him disconnect and gave him a hefty fine.
 
Only utilities with AMI meters and mesh networks. I believe those utilities are in the minority due to costs and dried up 2009 stimulus money.

Just because your meter is digital doesn’t make it “smart” and the utilities aren’t monitoring your usage 24/7. My meter (AMR style) is only read by the utility once a month when a van drives down then street.
I have an old meter in a rural area and I can view my hourly usage online
 
This is not a permanent Mount..I am trying to get a permit to hook up 2 290-watt Trinasolar panels to grid tie for testing purposes.. I though I could get by for a week or 2 by hooking up a MVC-300 and a MVC-600 Chinese microinverter and hooking them up straight to the grid..and monitoring them with a Kilowatt meter.to see what they were producing.But after several days the Power police showed up at my door..????At that point had to unhook them or face fines and penalties..so I did the first of the two..I am following the state law now..I was told to get a permit from our county and get a permit from my utility provider..we are in the process of getting the paperwork done as we speak My questions or questions are as follows and I hope someone can help me ????? 290 watt solar panels (2) Current at PMAX 7.97 Amps Voltage @ PMAX-36.4 Volts Open circuit Voltage 44.9 V micro inverter MVC300 and MVC600 Dedicated to each 110 circuit or receptacle attached to outside of building below Safety switch that needs to be installed Will run a heavy duty extension cable from panel to receptacle what size safety switch is needed what size breaker at bottom right side lower of breaker panel box what size wiring should be used Any help would be greatly appreciated
Who is your power company? I know with the one in my state, you can have 1kw or less without an interconnect agreement and be grid tied. Your two 290w panels couldn't put much out. Several days later they were at your door?
 
Can someone explain what is the point of tying to grid anyway without an agreement? If you're looking to offset your bill just run your loads off grid that way you don't get charged for the portion you don't use from your utility. Trying to tie to grid, even if its just for a test seems to be not only waste of time, but it can get you in trouble in a lot of different ways.
 
Can someone explain what is the point of tying to grid anyway without an agreement? If you're looking to offset your bill just run your loads off grid that way you don't get charged for the portion you don't use from your utility. Trying to tie to grid, even if its just for a test seems to be not only waste of time, but it can get you in trouble in a lot of different ways.
Free battery (not that I condone it). Take a refrigerator as an example-- it has a 50% duty cycle, so if you use a solar panel for it it will only get 50% use; worse actually since you need to handle compressor inrush.

It is easy to not export on a 15-minute basis, but real-time is nearly impossible.
 
someone explain what is the point of tying to grid anyway without an agreement
Because people read stuff about the meter running backwards and think they can do it.
The ‘post-modern’ way of guerrilla solar is a “gti” that contributes to wattage being consumed and thereby reduces the electric bill. The payoff period makes that a little bit impractical on one hand (solar costs a lot compared to kWh rates) and if/when consumption drops to below the gti output, woops! the powerco comes calling.

I’ve got one installed on my friend’s barn but they aren’t very efficient (6 or 7 freezers) and with ~250W max from the panels and their fish tank and other loads it’s unlikely to overpush. For $250ish of stuff it’s “paid back” maybe $20 tops since January.

The better/right way is a zero-export inverter or aio designed for that application
 
Can someone explain what is the point of tying to grid anyway without an agreement? If you're looking to offset your bill just run your loads off grid that way you don't get charged for the portion you don't use from your utility. Trying to tie to grid, even if its just for a test seems to be not only waste of time, but it can get you in trouble in a lot of different ways.
Running off-grid requires more transfer switches, disconnects, bigger inverters, fuses, circuit breakers, more batteries, and major rewriting of your house’s electrical system. Permitting sucks, because more often than not the AHJ doesn’t have a clue what’s going on if you try to DIY.

It’s super tempting just to plug in one of those Chinese inverters that backfeeds a circuit with a suicide cord directly to a wall outlet. Sure, you’ll probably burn down your house, get someone electrocuted, or get in trouble with your utility/law enforcement, but it’s the simplest approach. Literally the path of least resistance since it’s one cord.The Off-Grid Basement guy does this on a smart relay and works well for him as an energy dump.
 
Backfeeding your panel with your grid turned on (without an interconnection agreement) is a crime in most states. You can easily get a lineworker killed.
I have researched and not found a criminal statute in California. As a general statement, creating a hazard to linemen when the grid is down is probably covered under some statute. But when the grid is up, there is no hazard to linemen. Using a zero export GT inverter seems to be more common and perhaps it is a matter of time in which that scenario will probably be covered in some fashion. Your mileage may vary.
To be clear and consistent with the topic of this thread, there are clear statutes almost everywhere in the US that cover the construction of electrical circuits. As long as one constructs those in accordance with the building codes there does not appear to be any prohibition about generating your own power.
 
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Which part? Backfeeding your panel with your grid turned on (without an interconnection agreement) is a crime in most states. You can easily get a lineworker killed.
Even when the grid is down I highly doubt you can back feed the grid enough to keep the inverter running for more then a few tenths of a second before the in inverter implodes....you are pretty much powering into a dead short....you are trying to power your whole neighborhood....

Thus the risk to a line worker is nill...
 
Energy price rises in US? in Europe is expansive that offgrid is cheaper than grid.
If feed in to the grid is no allowed, you must go offgrid.
You may tailor your system in accordance of your needs, conductors cross section must be adequate.
I use a quite hi voltage to avoid thick expansive conductors.

If you live in crowded neighborhood fire hazard is a real concern, but can buy cheap land and go truly offgrid.
 
you are pretty much powering into a dead short
I have heard it described as an iinfinite load which may be the same thing. A true GT inverter would disconnect as soon as it loses the grid but I am not clear what an off grid inverter would do? Most likely, as you suggest, it would implode.
 
Only utilities with AMI meters and mesh networks. I believe those utilities are in the minority due to costs and dried up 2009 stimulus money.

Just because your meter is digital doesn’t make it “smart” and the utilities aren’t monitoring your usage 24/7. My meter (AMR style) is only read by the utility once a month when a van drives down then street.
Even way out here in the sticks the meter we have is minute by minute poll.
I assume it’s via Cell polling.
 
Even when the grid is down I highly doubt you can back feed the grid enough to keep the inverter running for more then a few tenths of a second before the in inverter implodes....you are pretty much powering into a dead short....you are trying to power your whole neighborhood....

Thus the risk to a line worker is nill...
Not true! Part of the IEEE 1547 standard is testing the anti-islanding function on a 60Hz resonant circuit. In the real world, it's possible that the "neighborhood" load resonates at 60Hz, and keeps right on going for longer than the standard allows due to stored energy "elsewhere" in the circuit. The illegally connected inverter just keeps it going for longer.
 
I have heard it described as an iinfinite load which may be the same thing. A true GT inverter would disconnect as soon as it loses the grid but I am not clear what an off grid inverter would do? Most likely, as you suggest, it would implode.
It goes into current limit and shuts itself down. However, some of them attempt to auto-restart and that's when a lineman, who has disconnected the line outside your house from the "neighborhood" while looking for the problem, gets shocked as the inverter attempts to restart itself.
 

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