OzSolar
Whatever you did, that's what you planned.
That's a great point! One that never seems to get mentioned which has stood out at as odd to me. It's been my plan the whole time.
Heavy duty busbar advice (+600A)
- Thread starter da9el84
- Start date
OzSolar
Whatever you did, that's what you planned.
Or use a DC rated load center. Check out the FAQ from Schneider.
Are QO load centers suitable for use on a 125V DC application?
Too bad it doesn't mention thier 100 amp breakers.Of course the big flaw of that plan is that I'm still limited to 225 amps on the main lugs.
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Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Back to BusBars....
I've bought commercial ones, I've made my own from 110 Pure Copper Bar Stock and other assortments for various uses.
Do NOT Mess with cheap stuff that looks good but can melt down and fry our keister ! They MUST be considered a Safety Item (like what isn't hehehe)
Here's a vid from David Poz that makes the point quite well... Heed what he says, could save a lot of grief.
Would be nice to see a vid with Overloaded Busbars failing and melting down and even vaporizing but some courageous character would have to set that up to do it safely.
I've bought commercial ones, I've made my own from 110 Pure Copper Bar Stock and other assortments for various uses.
Do NOT Mess with cheap stuff that looks good but can melt down and fry our keister ! They MUST be considered a Safety Item (like what isn't hehehe)
Here's a vid from David Poz that makes the point quite well... Heed what he says, could save a lot of grief.
Would be nice to see a vid with Overloaded Busbars failing and melting down and even vaporizing but some courageous character would have to set that up to do it safely.
Yeah, that's exactly what I am saying :D
chrisski
Solar Boondocker
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I have a two 600 amp continuous 8 stud Blue Sea Busbars in my build. My busbars are 12” long.
This is the one I bought:
PowerBar 600A BusBar - Eight 3/8"-16 Studs - Blue Sea Systems
Provides compact high-amp busing.
www.bluesea.com
The same site lists the CE certificate for download.
If you get these, recommend getting the covers when you purchase them. I have seen the covers listed on the blue sea site before, but don’t see them now.
John Frum
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I'm not the OP and I'm good for busbars. @da9el84 ^I have a two 600 amp continuous 8 stud Blue Sea Busbars in my build. My busbars are 12” long.
This is the one I bought:
PowerBar 600A BusBar - Eight 3/8"-16 Studs - Blue Sea Systems
Provides compact high-amp busing.
The same site lists the CE certificate for download.
If you get these, recommend getting the covers when you purchase them. I have seen the covers listed on the blue sea site before, but don’t see them now.
I have a two 600 amp continuous 8 stud Blue Sea Busbars in my build. My busbars are 12” long.
This is the one I bought:
PowerBar 600A BusBar - Eight 3/8"-16 Studs - Blue Sea Systems
Provides compact high-amp busing.
The same site lists the CE certificate for download.
If you get these, recommend getting the covers when you purchase them. I have seen the covers listed on the blue sea site before, but don’t see them now.
Thanks, but still shipping from the US to here + customs. Might as well grab the Victron Lynx Power In
But thanks
John Frum
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For 3x batteries and 3x inverters I suggest you get 1 power-in and 1 distributer and connect them together by the backplane.Thanks, but still shipping from the US to here + customs. Might as well grab the Victron Lynx Power In
If you need a shunt you can put that between them.
Lynx is expensive and modular.
Its a shame to have top shelf batteries and inverters and cheap out on the balance of the system.
power_in<->shunt<->distributor
I don't really need neither the shunt nor the distributor. The logic of my setup sits in the inverters talking to the BMS's.
What would I gain from adding these components?
Yes
John Frum
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If you don't need a shunt then by all means don't use one.
That would leave a topo like this
power_in<->distributor
You have 6 objects that need to be connected.
This gives you one spare branch on the power-in and one spare branch on the distributor.
Since the batteries should have over-current protection of sufficient breaking capacity as close as possible to the battery positive terminal landing on a fused branch is unnecessary and adds resistance.
Also the mega fuses don't have anywhere near the breaking capacity for a 48 volt lfp battery.
The Deye units are fine to be landed on the fused position so the distributor is a good fit.
They are fine because the branch fuse is not the last line of defence for a dead short.
They are there to protect the branch wire and to possibly isolate a fault to a single branch.
The busbar ampacity is thick enough that relative resistance of the different positions are just noise compared to the possible resistance of the joinery between the backplanes.
Put another way the combination of the power-in and distributor means that all devices share the load equitably if configured as described.
I am planning something like this
I don't really want fuses in my system if I can avoid it, would rather have breakers trip in case of a fault.
I don't see the distributor adding anything to the above scenario?
John Frum
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I know of only one breaker I trust at 250 amps.
I prefer fuses except for strategic points of disconnect.
I just don't trust breakers even magnetic ones at that amperage.
I would rather replace a fuse than worry about a pitted contactor.
If it were me I would use a double pole disconnect on the pv side for each mppt instance.
The deye will have its own means of disconnect for the inverter, confirm?
The BMS probably has a means of administrative disconnect for each battery, confirm?
Why wouldn't I trust rated equiptment to do what it's rated for?
We are not talking pv side right now, just batteries
The inverter has a manual switch for PV
The BMS has a disconnect in case of +215A hitting it and a shutoff function. Idk if the shutoff will protect it though, not counting on it
If you're talking about using this as a connection it probably wont fly as it's not inside the enclosure
I don't mind getting 2.
John Frum
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Its commonly done.
If you are concerned, cover with heat shrink or Kapton tape.
Danish regulations is quite different from US I believe. I'll be buying 2 and doing it "right". 200$ is nothing in the grand solution. I just didn't wan't to pay through my nose for encased copperbars with a few bolts on them.
John Frum
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I can't answer for you but I've seen videos that show how even reputable rated breakers get pitted at that amperage.
Once they are pitted they are more likely to weld shut.
The pv side disconnect de energizes the pv side of the panel which serves as a means of disconnect for the bat side.We are not talking pv side right now, just batteries
The solar charge controller is a load at that point.
Cool there is your means of disconnect.
Doesn't it have a way to administratively open the charge and discharge fets?
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