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diy solar

Help me pick a 3 pole double throw switch.

I currently have this one installed. It is rated 60A and is rated to run a 10hp motor. Wire inside is 6AWG. When I was looking for a 3 pole transfer switch, I originally looked for a 100A but it was during the shortages with covid shutdowns and everything I found was over $1500 USD. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TEADUHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I paid around $440 USD for it back then, the price increase now is ridiculous.

Another member had asked what I was using and sent him a link. It did get my curiosity up and I was looking around for a lower price for him and ran across a 100A Eaton DT323NDK on ebay for $775. It showed up around Christmas with shipping damage, nothing serious, small dent opposite the handle. Still waiting on Fed Ex damage claim.

The reason for the 100A is if I decide to add 2 more EG4 6500EX inverters. If I don't use it in the house, I'll probably use it in the shop.

If I was looking to buy a 3 pole right now, I'd look for a 100A. This allows expansion down the line such as adding more inverters to power heat pumps and other items to shift energy sources.
 
wondering why no one mentions GE "General Electric" switches.
Are they consider sub standard?
 
Well, reviving this thread...
So, if I understood correctly, Signature Solar posted a video saying that for a stationary setup (House) with "grid assist" and dual inverters,
it is ok to remove the grounding screws (got authorization), for those of us who have the screw in, and to use a common neutral.

(Maybe, I don't have to remove the screw, since the new firmware will disable the n/g bond)?

Does that means, that I could get a 2 pole transfer switch instead?
 
Last edited:
#1: With the 6500EX, there was a firmware change for stationary applications that now has neutral as pass thru. You will not need a common neutral from AC input to AC output if the grounding screw is removed and the firmware updated.

#2: For a mobile application or if a person desired bonding at the inverter, there is a firmware update for mobile only where the grounding screw remains and the inverter will sense if shore power is present and switch neutral accordingly.

If you go with #1, you can use a 2 pole transfer switch. #2 would be best with a 3 pole.
 
Zwy said:
#1: With the 6500EX, there was a firmware change for stationary applications that now has neutral as pass thru. You will not need a common neutral from AC input to AC output if the grounding screw is removed and the firmware updated.

#2: For a mobile application or if a person desired bonding at the inverter, there is a firmware update for mobile only where the grounding screw remains and the inverter will sense if shore power is present and switch neutral accordingly.

If you go with #1, you can use a 2 pole transfer switch. #2 would be best with a 3 pole.
Click to expand...
Stationary here,
So, let's say, I choose to not remove the screws, update to new firmware, and somehow set it to pass thru neutral. And use a 2 pole transfer switch.
Or, do I still need to remove the screw(s)?
 
Patrick1 said:
Stationary here,
So, let's say, I choose to not remove the screws, update to new firmware, and somehow set it to pass thru neutral. And use a 2 pole transfer switch.
Or, do I still need to remove the screw(s)?
Click to expand...
If you leave the screws in, you will want to use the mobile firmware regardless. You will not want grid pass thru neutral when under inverter power as this creates a parallel path with the N-G bond at the main service panel. The firmware update for mobile is supposed to break the AC input neutral, like it did in the past.

You would need a 3 pole transfer switch after the inverter if you want complete inverter bypass, a 2 pole would need a common neutral and that can't be used with the grounding screws installed.

Personally, on any system that I would wire today with the new firmware and grounding screws removed, I'd still install a 3 pole neutral switching double throw. The reason why is if I need to remove the inverter or work on/around it, I want to isolate off from grid yet keep my subpanel powered up. With a pass thru neutral in the inverter and relying upon it for the subpanel neutral, I would not have a neutral in the subpanel if I removed the inverter or had to disconnect it. The 3 pole would allow switching the subpanel over to grid power without any hassle.
 
Patrick1 said:
As of now, this is what I am planning...

View attachment 127559
According to an electrician I have 100A service, but the breakers at the meter box say 125A.
If the electrician is right, a 100A 3 pole double throw switch should be fine.
Right?
I asked because, I read the comments at HomeDepot where someone asked , and the
answer was that they will have to get a 200A TS with the similar 125A service.

Any opinions on fused vs "non-fused"?
Click to expand...
You can buy a 3 pole transfer panel here: https://www.wincogen.com/product/reliance-60-amp-manual-transfer-switch/ these are made by Reliance control. That would save you on wiring and streamline your process. If you need something larger than 60 amps you can create your own larger 3 pole transfer panel. When I get a chance I would do a write up, but it would probably be moved to danger zone. All I did was copy exactly what Reliance Controls does on their 3 pole transfer panels, but I used a larger Siemens panel to do mine. My transfer panel is capable of 125 amps. Although I have another one already made that is capable of 200amps but have no need for it at the moment.
 
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