diy solar

diy solar

How can Current Connected improve?

yeah.. what is the quality level? only you can determine that. whats wrong with some insurance? might as well vote democrat.
1. Quality agrument is none sense...
Seplos, EG4 , pace, jk server, tangalunga cover 95% of the server rack batteries
Wouldn't call low quality

And I hate discussing politics on forums, but I do vote democrat, what's your point ?

I think the point was designing a system to be failsafe (it may fail, just be safe about it) i.e. personal responsibility vs. relying on unknown quality and someone else (although theory and practice diverge in politics, where all that matters is getting the "right" party in power).

Many people here say they are comfortable with a LiFePO4 battery in the house, even under their bed.

Most of the precharge issues we heard about were involving EG4 batteries sold by SS.
Often, an inverter that worked just fine with other batteries.
It seems clear to me the system must perform precharge before inverter begins delivering power.
Open loop? Closed loop? Does BMS say, "Wait for it ... wait for it ..."

Here's one. Can you find any indication it takes care of precharge?




A simple mechanically interlocked switch with precharge resistor would be fine, except for BMS ability to disconnect and reconnect automatically.
What would work better is if it could tell inverter to shut down, still keeping capacitors charged. A connector for a run/stop switch would support that without any datacom.
 
10 watt 50 ohms . This is a fancy one with heat sink but a basic resistor would be fine as well. I can imped a ring terminal one one end for my setup you may or may not need
I've ordered 50 watt 25 ohms today, will that work too? Don't know much about these things.

Cheers
 
What inverter do you have?
How much power does it consume no-load? Or standby, if you manually tell it to start producing AC?

Some inverters consume 25W no-load.
25W / 50V = 0.5A
0.5A x 25 ohms = 12.5V
12.5V / 50V = 75%
50V - 12.5V = 37.5V

In that case, capacitors would be precharged 75% of the way to battery voltage, up to 37.5V.
That should significantly reduce surge and arcing in switch, although I would prefer 95% precharge.

My 6kW inverter draws 25W no-load and 4W standby, so I think 25 ohm would work fine for me.
(I don't use one for now because I have AGM not lithium.)
 
What inverter do you have?
How much power does it consume no-load? Or standby, if you manually tell it to start producing AC?

Some inverters consume 25W no-load.
25W / 50V = 0.5A
0.5A x 25 ohms = 12.5V
12.5V / 50V = 75%
50V - 12.5V = 37.5V

In that case, capacitors would be precharged 75% of the way to battery voltage, up to 37.5V.
That should significantly reduce surge and arcing in switch, although I would prefer 95% precharge.

My 6kW inverter draws 25W no-load and 4W standby, so I think 25 ohm would work fine for me.
(I don't use one for now because I have AGM not lithium.)
I got a 1500W 48V inverter that consumes about 15W no-load.

Would this be correct then?
15W / 50V = 0.3A
0.3 x 25 ohms = 7,5V
7,5V / 50V = 0.15(85%)?
50V - 7,5V = 42,5V

Precharged to 85% of the battery voltage, up to 42,5V?

The thing I'm also curious about is the resistor wattage rating. How does its wattage rating relate to the above?

Thanks for chiming in, very much appreciated.
 
Wattage matters if the load is low impedance and voltage never comes up.
If you burn your finger on the resistor, release the pushbutton and investigate (maybe inverter is powering loads, in which case turn the off.)

The resistor will take an initial hit of W = V^2/R, 50^2/25 = 100W.
Not that much above your 25W, should be OK for a few seconds.

For a much smaller value resistor like 5 ohm, would be 500W. "Pulse rated" resistors are available, very high power hits to resistors not rated for it burns them out. Have seen that on circuit boards, fixed with the correct sort.
 
All this talk of resistors ...
Current Connected covered it a while back with a great video.
Thank you. This post is about CC improving. The light bulb video is awesome. Resistor solved and you know how long to hold the "resistor" in the circuit. It's not for the batteries it is to protect the the capacitors etc downstream from battery also....
 
What inverter do you have?
How much power does it consume no-load? Or standby, if you manually tell it to start producing AC?

Some inverters consume 25W no-load.
25W / 50V = 0.5A
0.5A x 25 ohms = 12.5V
12.5V / 50V = 75%
50V - 12.5V = 37.5V

In that case, capacitors would be precharged 75% of the way to battery voltage, up to 37.5V.
That should significantly reduce surge and arcing in switch, although I would prefer 95% precharge.

My 6kW inverter draws 25W no-load and 4W standby, so I think 25 ohm would work fine for me.
(I don't use one for now because I have AGM not lithium.)
Having a resistor in series will still get the caps close to 100%, that no load draw isn’t just for keeping the caps charged.

Also your calcs are assuming the caps operate at only dc battery voltage, some of the time they operate at a much higher voltage.
 
How can current connected improve...um simple reduce your high shipping fees and charges. I bought some Victron inverters from Big Battery because their price was almost a grand cheaper than you guys. Yes you guys have the extended warranty and make good youtube vids :)
 
How can current connected improve...um simple reduce your high shipping fees and charges. I bought some Victron inverters from Big Battery because their price was almost a grand cheaper than you guys. Yes you guys have the extended warranty and make good youtube vids :)
I just checked their website and they charge the exact same amount of shipping as we do for a 48/5000 Multiplus-2. They not appear to charge sales tax, but you are legally obligated to report any uncharged sales taxes at the end of the year so you'll be paying it regardless. I have no idea where you are coming up with "almost a grand cheaper" unless you got some coupon code or special.

At least you have some technical knowhow, so missing out on our highly trained support/service staff, pre-programming and extended warranty is not a big deal for you...but milage can certainly vary!
 
Here's a little something that is likely more painful than it worth - but list all the products you carry on your website. I know if its Victron, you either have it in stock or can get it quickly, but that isn't obvious on your website.

Maybe, given that we are talking Victron, break those listings up between 230V European only system and USA/Canada 120V systems.

Add a bit more reference information as well, like pointing out that (2) 120V systems are needed to create a 240V split phase system along with a youtube link. Just a line or two with that link. Took me awhile to figure that out.
 
Having seen this thread I went to check your site to see what your store is about, and I like what you guys do. Similar to previously said, if I weren't on another continent I'd shop at your store for sure.

That being said, just because I'm not a customer doesn't mean I can't try and provide some feedback, considering I like what I see.

This is merely an observation, a constructive 'criticism' at best;

For sure, the website could use some work on the UI. Something minimalistic, yet functional and easy to navigate.

I wouldn't hang onto some 'specific' theme colors as currently, instead, a regular white background with a very nice main navigation header and page recognizable design in general. Keep it clean and nice looking. Something similar to the RichSolar website would probably be more tangible for you. Not just like it, more minimalistic, but I guess it's easier to understand what direction I'm referring to by giving a specific example.


Now the fun part,

I really like what you are offering on your websites. More specifically, good quality Solar Kits.

First, maybe consider increasing the range of SCCs offered by Victron


Last but not least, I've seen a lot of solar kits offered throughout a lot of stores, but very rarely these kits are even remotely good as yours.

Combining Victron SCC with RichSolar solar panels tells me everything I need to know about what are you trying to offer to someone looking to build a nice small solar panel system. The offer is legit in my humble opinion.

Having said that, have you considered offering more economical kits?

By economical, I'm not referring to cheap components but rather, maintaining the quality of the kit offered just with a more specific power range/need/budget in mind.

For people looking to have a small yet capable solar panel system with no intent to upgrade with more solar later due to the limited amount of space on their small trailers, sheds, and so on and on.

Quick example. a 24V system
-75/15SCC (@24V 440W)
-400W solar/ either 12V or 24V 2x200W RichSolar panels, more voltage or better shading management.
- Smart Battery Sense unit - Voltage and temperature sensing, control over charging in lower temperatures and more accurate voltage reading.

So far that's roughly 650-700$ kits with a few bits and pieces like perhaps a few cables etc

- And if expanding the offerings is of interest,
with 24V 50Ah battery and 400-600W Inverter(good fit price/performance Victron 500VA).

Where future expansion is already accounted for in regards to the storage capacity, by simple parallel connection of more 24V 50Ah batteries
(compact and easy enough to add on to the system within limited space)

This is just a quick example, but the point is, to make very nice, 'smart', economical, and quality kits for specific power needs and/or space limitations.

Offering quality kits within an even more affordable budget range for folks that have small power needs on their small travel trailers etc.

Anyhow, just a thought.

Keep up the good work.
On increasing the range of Victron MPPTs.....When I was looking for mine, I wanted a 150/35. CC didn't have it on their website, but I called and they sent me a link to a shopping cart with it (and my Multiplus II). Not sure if they had it or if it was just drop shipped, but call them if you do not see it on their site.
 
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They not appear to charge sales tax, but you are legally obligated to report any uncharged sales taxes at the end of the year so you'll be paying it regardless
I think it depends on the state. The state of Rhode Island (sigh...I know, I know) doesn't charge sales tax on Solar equipment/installs etc.. "all renewable energy products such as solar panels, inverters, batteries, and installation costs are not subject to sales tax."

However, I'm all for Current Connected and hopefully can get an installer that actually wants to install using something other than Enphase or Fronius.
 
On increasing the range of Victron MPPTs.....When I was looking for mine, I wanted a 150/35. CC didn't have it on their website, but I called and they sent me a link to a shopping cart with it (and my Multiplus II). Not sure if they had it or if it was just drop shipped, but call them if you do not see it on their site.
We have the entire range of Victron SmartSolar MPPTs -


But i'll give it to you, sometimes things are a bit harder to find than they should be. I'm finishing something up early this week that will change that immensely.

However, I'm all for Current Connected and hopefully can get an installer that actually wants to install using something other than Enphase or Fronius.
Well, we just started carrying Enphase so that's expanding the list 😁 - with that said the installer probably will want to provide the equipment so they can make the markup on that was well.
 
Well, we just started carrying Enphase so that's expanding the list 😁 - with that said the installer probably will want to provide the equipment so they can make the markup on that was well.
It definitely makes sense! Pricing out here in New England just seems ridiculous. I'm all for everyone making money, but I'm also not opting to pay $70-100K for a 11kw ground array system with 18kWh of storage...
 
Minor bug I discovered when selecting a "kit" and you go to "customize kit" so I can remove Cat5 cables (have plenty of my own). When you click "add selected products to cart" I get an error. It is just a white page that says in the top left, "Permissions check failed"
 
You currently have a kit for the Victron 5000/48 split phase (2 inverters) and your site suggests you pair that with 5x SOK batteries. How about a pairing with 5x EG4 LLv2 or a PowerPro or two?
 
I just did a massive update on the site. The main thing everyone will notice is that the header is revamped and has a WAY better interactive search function (previous one was just an unresponsive box). There are a lot of things cleaned up and made more performant and consistent. Since this was such an invasive update, things may not look right at first because some browsers may have parts from the old version cached - if that happens to you you can try clearing your cache. Chrome users can just press "ctrl+shift+R" to do a hard reload.

Despite many applicants, we don't have reliable help with web development, so I have been learning and doing the development myself lately. If anything is messed up please send me a message with a screenshot and if anyone that is well versed with e-commerce, wordpress, php, css, javascript, mariaDB, (a big perk would be react/nextJS/graphQL) and wants a long-term, high paying, full-time job in Las Vegas (not remote), let me know.

Bring back the Current Connected Savings Shack!
We are now using a third-party that sells the stuff on Ebay instead. The savings shack was a massive headache.

It is just a white page that says in the top left, "Permissions check failed"
I heard a couple reports about this issue, but am having a tough time recreating it to get a log dump - but trust me I'll get it fixed in due time. It sounds like "restore cart" does not have any issues.
 
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