How easily will this pull be in 1" conduit

[elizabethii]

Ignoring the NEC rule regarding maximum number of current-carrying conductors in a conduit, how easily/possible will this cable pull be? I haven't buried any conduit yet, so plans can change, but I'm seeking to integrate into an existing 1" conduit where I'll be pulling the existing conductors out to replace with the new, longer ones. I'd prefer to not have to run an entire new conduit run back to the panel if possible. According to a conduit fill calculator, it'll fit easily, but theory and practical application can sometimes wildly differ.

• This pull would be a in 1" schedule 40 buried conduit totaling around 100 feet.
• There would 2 radius/sweep 90s and a long, gentle curve of about 45 degrees over 60-ish feet via bending the sticks of conduit in the trench.
• There will be other segments separated by LBs above ground. This segment is another 50-ish feet, but because it's straight sections with LBs for pull points, I'm not too worried about having a hard time.
• The conductor list (all stranded wire) includes:
  • 3-8AWG
    3-10AWG
    1-12AWG

EDIT: fixed the conductor list

 

[Madco]

That should be an easy pull. Just be careful to notice any mud on the existing conductors when you pull them out. If you encounter mud and it seems difficult to pull out a couple of the existing conductors, your conduit has either separated or failed (you didn't mention if it is rigid metal or pvc). That's a game changer.

This assumes normal wire like THHN or THWN. If it is 1000V insulated PV wire, the task might be more difficult but it still should be OK. You might want to use lube if that is the case.

 

[zanydroid]

What is the single #12 for?

 

[elizabethii]

What is the single #12 for?

It's for a ground, though consulting the NEC table again, it should actually be a #10.

The idea is to use the 3 #8s and a #10 for a 50-amp RV receptacle, and 3 #10s to feed a 120v single-leg sub-panel for up to 40 amps of critical loads like freezers.

 

[elizabethii]

That should be an easy pull. Just be careful to notice any mud on the existing conductors when you pull them out. If you encounter mud and it seems difficult to pull out a couple of the existing conductors, your conduit has either separated or failed (you didn't mention if it is rigid metal or pvc). That's a game changer.

This assumes normal wire like THHN or THWN. If it is 1000V insulated PV wire, the task might be more difficult but it still should be OK. You might want to use lube if that is the case.

It's all THHN. The existing conduit is an above-ground horizontal run around a shed that I installed in August and stuffed an 8/3 Romex into. The Romex didn't particularly like making the corner in the LB.

 

[zanydroid]

The math is still not consistent with numerous mistakes

One #10 EGC for all circuits

3 #8 - 50A 120/240 14-50
2 #10 - 30A 120 subpanel

Unless you were taking some kind of HVAC allowance to go above 30A. That is complicated for a while subpanel and it’s best to not deal with it and pull bigger conductors

 

[zanydroid]

Oop another math error

3x #8 and 2x #10 is 4 CCC (neutral doesn’t count on 120/240). So 80% derate needs to be done on #8. You can still use 14-50 but only at 40A

 

[zanydroid]

If you can afford the extra #10 might want to pull that 120 panel as 120/240 since you get double the capacity for 50% more wire, and future proofing to different config later

 

[zanydroid]

The existing conduit is an above-ground horizontal run around a shed that I installed in August and stuffed an 8/3 Romex into.

This was not code compliant. No romex (NM) outdoors even in conduit.

 

[400bird]

This was not code compliant. No romex (NM) outdoors even in conduit.

What about no NM in conduit at all?

 

[zanydroid]

What about no NM in conduit at all?

Huh?

You can put NM in conduit in a location where NM is allowed, for protection. It requires a pretty large conduit though because the cross section is calculated against the maximum width axis of the NM.

 

[400bird]

Hmm, that's not what I was told. I guess I learned something today. Thanks!

 

[zanydroid]

Hmm, that's not what I was told. I guess I learned something today. Thanks!

NP.

I think what happened was, people extrapolated from the “no NM in outdoor conduit” or “putting NM in conduit is really dumb and non-productive”, to “never allowed to put NM in conduit”

 

[Checkthisout]

Hmm, that's not what I was told. I guess I learned something today. Thanks!

It's definitely allowed in conduit.

It's just that the conduit does NOT change the rating of the wire.

So UF-B must be used outdoors but can be in conduit and NM-B must still only be used indoors and can also be in conduit.

Both are required to be conduit where exposed to damage.

 

[zanydroid]

They aren’t required to be in conduit. They could also be protected with incomplete conduit system, set up as a protective sleeve, IE with some gaps left open, etc.

 

[Checkthisout]

They aren’t required to be in conduit. They could also be protected with incomplete conduit system, set up as a protective sleeve, IE with some gaps left open, etc.

"Where exposed to damage" ?

 

[zanydroid]

If you seal it completely then the AHJ can’t complain. But then you have to follow ALL conduit rules.

If you use it as random protection, you don’t have to follow all conduit rules, but then the AHJ has a higher chance of saying you didn’t protect it enough.

Also I hope we are talking about AC here. If it is DC, IMO even if code allows UF to be exposed outside of structure (I don’t know if it is), that sounds like a terrible idea vs using a completed conduit system.