Interruption requires a special DC circuit breaker which allows opening the circuit without arc damage.
Mostly curious. Are these adjustments daily, or are they seasonal?So from this, I have gathered that I can leave breakers on, but batteries and controller/inverter should always be shut off before adjusting panels. I won’t cover them but will only touch panel frames, not wires.
Just taking about adjusting to more direct sun once in a while. System is new so I am testing. Its ground mounted. might just find best placement and rarely if ever touch them.Mostly curious. Are these adjustments daily, or are they seasonal?
I gave up on tilting my RV roof panels each time I go out in part because the hour it takes to set them up and the hour it takes to tear them down.
We also have wires at work for portable systems that have been out for decades, and some have not held up so well to the sun. I wonder how a PV rated cable will hold up over time. I've wrapped most of my PV rated cable in split loom, despite the cable being UV rated.
Wow I am very surprised that shock would increase with batteries and controller off! Are you sure about that? My other question if you or anyone knows is, what is considered a good pv input voltage to see on my real time controller display in direct sunlight? I have above average efficient panels, they are older Sunpowers. Right now it’s fluctuating around 70v and it’s overcast.Even with the charge controller pushing power to the batteries, it is no problem to touch, hold, lift, or turn the panels by the frames to aim them at the sun. It is no different than pushing around a plugging in and running vacuum cleaner. But it is a good idea to look over the wires from time to time and make sure noting is scraped or frayed before touching. Your 3 series wiring of 305 watt panels is running at about 120 volts with 2 groups in parallel bringing the power to about 1800 watts. Ok maybe a large power saw. And the thing with solar panels, if you do turn off the load, the voltage actually goes up and would increase the shock hazard if there was an exposed wire.
Great video from the SolarQueen:what is considered a good pv input voltage to see on my real time controller display in direct sunlight?
Voltage will depend on the ratings on the panels and the configuration of the wiring.Wow I am very surprised that shock would increase with batteries and controller off! Are you sure about that? My other question if you or anyone knows is, what is considered a good pv input voltage to see on my real time controller display in direct sunlight? I have above average efficient panels, they are older Sunpowers. Right now it’s fluctuating around 70v and it’s overcast.
Truth be told, it is not a big difference, but under load, the panels will be at Vmp (voltage at maximum power) which on my 300 watt panels is 32.8 volts each. When you turn off the load, the panels will go up to the Voc (voltage open circuit) which is 39.85 volts. If I ran 3 of these in series, the voltage is then 119.55 volts open, but it drops to 98.4 volts with the load on. Still a voltage you need to be careful about, but it is less. And if you had disconnected a lead, you have a much more likely contact point compared to a system that is all connected. An open disconnect switch should be well protected, but disconnecting an MC4 connector is not a good idea. The terminals are recessed inside plastic, but still not a good idea when the sun is on the panels.Wow I am very surprised that shock would increase with batteries and controller off! Are you sure about that? My other question if you or anyone knows is, what is considered a good pv input voltage to see on my real time controller display in direct sunlight? I have above average efficient panels, they are older Sunpowers. Right now it’s fluctuating around 70v and it’s overcast.
Just taking about adjusting to more direct sun once in a while. System is new so I am testing. Its ground mounted. might just find best placement and rarely if ever touch them.