diy solar

diy solar

If you have 4 12V batteries, each of the same Ah, what are the pros and cons of connecting them in a 1S4P 12V, 2S2P 24V, and 4S1P 48V configuration?

rgbdspf

New Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2022
Messages
22
This is assuming it's part of a system where you never directly connect to the battery voltage itself (i.e. you have appropriately voltage-rated SCC, AC-DC charger, inverter, etc.).

The system would have the same Wh regardless of the configuration, and the current going to and coming from each battery would be the same for any given watts power draw, so I'm not sure how they would differ besides the voltage-rating compatibility mentioned above and the gauge of the final terminating wires coming off the battery array.

Assuming the same watts going in or out of the battery array, are 48V components cheaper than 12V components due to the lower current or more expensive due to the higher voltage?
 
Generally speaking, 48 volt stuff is cheaper, yes. You also save quite a bit of money on the wiring, as a 48 volt system would need about 1/4 the the size as a 12v.

It's also easier to squeeze more power out of a higher voltage.

5000 watts at 12 volts is ~416 amps, which is a massive load to have to deal with. 5000w at 48v is ~104, which is MUCH easier to handle, and will be substantially cheaper in component / wire costs.

BTW, it would be 4 in series (4s) for 12v, 8s for 24v. and 16s for 48v.
 
Generally speaking, 48 volt stuff is cheaper, yes. You also save quite a bit of money on the wiring, as a 48 volt system would need about 1/4 the the size as a 12v.

It's also easier to squeeze more power out of a higher voltage.

5000 watts at 12 volts is ~416 amps, which is a massive load to have to deal with. 5000w at 48v is ~104, which is MUCH easier to handle, and will be substantially cheaper in component / wire costs.
So 48V sounds all-around better then. What are the downsides?

BTW, it would be 4 in series (4s) for 12v, 8s for 24v. and 16s for 48v.
I was thinking more of something like if you have 4 pre-assembled Battleborn or SOK or whatever 12V batteries rather than having the raw cells.
 
Last edited:
Doing some searching, it seems like it's harder to find lower-power components for 48V systems, like a 2000W inverter
 
Doing some searching, it seems like it's harder to find lower-power components for 48V systems, like a 2000W inverter
The cost savings would come from a higher powered system. For 2000 watts, 12 or 24 volts is totally possible, needs less connections, and has more compatible devices.

I use a 12v system for my trailer (2000w) and house backup (2200w), but my next system, that I intend to use to run everything but my HVAC, will be 48v.
 
Back
Top