A motor at its recommended voltage and same load
always runs at its full capacity. It will run with the same watts because the temperature in the fridge doesn’t change the load on the motor. If running as a fridge it will run with less
watt-hours because it will work for less time per hour
I’m running a 5CF (4.5CF?) fridge on 1000W MPPSolar 1012LV with no probs, and ran all last year on a 1200W Giandel no probs.
To be even MORE efficient
My 5CF isn’t very thick insulated- it does ok - fine- but annoys my head that it’s less than half as thick as my RV fridge was.
Personally, I do not know that brand inverter. It looks like some others…
Anyways I don’t know if returning is an option but I’d have lost my attention span on that thing and bought something else. It seems like you’ve done the things that make sense, so other than
if that unit has a defrost cycle that hits 18A or something (unlikely?) I’d blame the inverter- right or wrong. I do know Giandel, Reliable, and MPP stuff works, and Victron and the other top-shelf inverters have a good rep.
I know my 1200W Giandel pure sine has been flawless for four years, but if it had issues I would have had something else and quick.
Read the grounding info others linked. But in an RV my way of doing that case ground is to ground the battery or busbar to the frame- yes- but run the case ground homerun to the busbar or battery. In an RV
that is your earth. Read below.
NO. Absolutely do not do that
The issue is with shorepower the “ground” is completed at the hitching post (the source of power) and adding a ground is actually dangerous. The ground needs to be established at the source of power for 120VAC. While 12VDC may have a ‘ground’ connection as well it doesn’t need dirt to be grounded. The grounding links will show you how on shore power the ground will find ‘dirt’ through the hitching post for shorepower and how to insure safe grounding while on inverter power.