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diy solar

Bus bar distributor or Anderson connections?

troye

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2023
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14
Location
Mexico
This is for a battery backup after hurricanes, no solar. I have a 12v 300ah LifePo4, an 85amp charger, and a 4000 watt inverter. I want to power a fridge and a freezer, a few lights and fan, all at night. Possibly an entertainment system. During the day, i will be running the whole house with a loud 9000 watt genny. I want to charge the battery during this time, roughly 5-6hours. The battery has 1/0awg cables, and a 350 amp t-class fuse. Should i connect this to a bus bar, which branches off to the inverter and the charger? Or, for component protection, should i consider completely seperating these with Anderson connections? I sort of like the idea of being able to move the battery and charger at times, to be plugged into my small genny. But i don't like the idea of sparking, and inferior conductivity. I am leaning bus bar. I realize inverters are left connected to solar systems, i am just wondering if there are advantages or disadvantages with either bus bar or Anderson connections? Any third alternatives? Can anyone recommend a 300 amp rated bus bar for this set up?
 
If you're not planning to leave it connected all the time, I'd go with the Anderson connector.
 
I like the idea of Anderson Plugs wtih some sort of pre-charge to deal with the spark.

For the spark, if the AIO or Inverter or Inverter/Charger does not automatically do the spark, regardless of whether or not you have a busbar or Anderson plug, there ought to be a way of dealing with the spark. If there's enough metal to havea spark its sending molten metal somewhere, even if this is the last connection in the busbar.

These precharge ranges from a incandescent bulb to a built in multi position switch with a resistor.

I have a four position BLUE SEA 350 amp battery switch:

1) OFF
2) Position 1
3) Position 1+2
4) Position 2

The pre charge resistor is in position 1, so for your instance disconnect and add batteries in the off position, go to position 1 to use the pre-charge resistor, position 1 + 2 is a "NO BREAK CONTACT" switch where it now shorts the 2 path with no resistor, and then the "Run" position is "Position 2"

A better explanation of this is in the pre-charge resistor section.

The only thing I worry about Anderson plugs is the condition of the contact after being unplugged for months at a time if I need to clean corrosion off or not.
 
That BLUE SEA 350 amp battery switch is a great suggestion. I may be able to use that for other purposes, like switching power between the fridge and a then a small ac unit.
thanks!
 
Then Anderson connector will clean itself as you plug it in. Just don't leave it out in the rain and stick with the real thing verse a knock-off.
 
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