Isn't a 3000W inverter on 12V really pushing it as far as current?
- Thread starter Grimmster
- Start date
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
3k inverter at 12 volts is an insane amount of current, and any wiring mistakes on the DC side will rapidly cause issues.
A simple failure to tighten a junction properly will overheat and then you run the risk of a fire. even properly sized wires can cause voltage drop which then makes the inverter work harder... will your batteries be capable of dumping that much current? will your BMS's trip? Fuses... breakers....
2k is about the highest I would want to run on 12 volts... just my opinion.
A simple failure to tighten a junction properly will overheat and then you run the risk of a fire. even properly sized wires can cause voltage drop which then makes the inverter work harder... will your batteries be capable of dumping that much current? will your BMS's trip? Fuses... breakers....
2k is about the highest I would want to run on 12 volts... just my opinion.
pollenface
Solar Addict
If you want to do it, you can do it.
The average person is unlikely to draw a 3000w sustained load for more than a few minutes. 3000w is a good choice for surge capability.
The average person is unlikely to draw a 3000w sustained load for more than a few minutes. 3000w is a good choice for surge capability.
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
A general rule is to not exceed pulling 250A from a Battery System.
12VDC X 250A = 3000W, where 3000W÷120VAC = 120V/25A
* not corrected for losses / inefficiencies.
A regular household 120V circuit is 15A (1800W).
12VDC X 250A = 3000W, where 3000W÷120VAC = 120V/25A
* not corrected for losses / inefficiencies.
A regular household 120V circuit is 15A (1800W).
Vigilant24
New Member
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IMO, a common 3000W HF inverter (with proper cable sizing) is a good size if you intend to run about 1500-2000W on a regular basis. These cheap inverters often just don't have the heat rejection capability to run at their full rated power for very long, especially if ambient temps are high, So, in reply to the OP, I don't think a 3000W inverter on 12V is necessarily a stretch. I've got cable to accommodate 250A in case I ever need to go there, but I bought the 3000W inverter because I may want it to provide 2000W for 30 minutes at a time without crumping out.
pollenface
Solar Addict
Exactly
50ShadesOfDirt
Solar Enthusiast
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As 12v is one of the big 3 system reference voltages, my guess is that the 3kw is there for folks with loads needing up to (insert values per model) the "continuous" and/or "surge" values. For example:
- Continuous power: 3000W
- Surge power: 6000W (1/2 second)
Vigilant24
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There's nothing wrong with that. I went with 12V because my system is small (approx 400W of panels, approx 2500Wh of storage (12V flooded lead acid batteries)), and just for backup/emergency use at my home (so it stays packed up unless I need it). In backup/emergency situations, flexibility can be pretty important, and the ability to run 12VDC pumps, easily charge from someone's car alternator in a pinch, bring my inverter to someone else's car/car battery to let them briefly run a power tool, etc can be handy. The difference in cable costs (due to higher amps) is minimal for this setup, and the cost/variety of available equipment favored 12V. If I had longer distances from batteries to inverter, etc, then I might have done something different.
I currently have a a victron 12/1200 that I use to run some lights, fans and a small dorm fridge. Maybe continuous 200 watts. I did want to be able to run a 12k btu mini split ac and it does work with peak draw around 1200 watts for about 90 seconds. Then it drops to 3-500 watts. If anything else is running when the ac compressor kicks on then the inverter overloads. I quickly realized I needed a bigger inverter. So I looked at the multiplus 12/2000. Then after seeing the derating due to temperature (I’m in a hot climate and regularly see 40C) I realized that 2000w inverter is still going to struggle pushing my 1000-1500w load. So now I’m looking at the 12/3000 multiplus to cover the temp derating and also not pushing the inverter to the limits. In reality I should probably get a 48/3000 and make the switch to 48v.
JWLV
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If your system is 12V and you have an Electric Vehicle that you want to charge on a Level 1 EVSE, then a 3000W inverter makes good sense. It'll draw around 1800W-2000W continuous at the battery for 24+ hours.
But if you have a 12V system, it's easy to put two battery banks in series to make 24V. You reduce your amperage by half.
But if you have a 12V system, it's easy to put two battery banks in series to make 24V. You reduce your amperage by half.
3000 watts on 12v is mostly fine. Generally usage will not really push the full 3000 but may give comfort level vs pushing a 2000 to the very max.
Still need the DC supply connection to supply 3000 watts. If running 2000+ watts for any extended period a fairly large battery will be needed and will easily supply the current.
Go power makes a great 3000w 24v https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-ISW3000-24-Certified-Inverter/dp/B01NCQ9TIT
(not the lowest cost option)
Still need the DC supply connection to supply 3000 watts. If running 2000+ watts for any extended period a fairly large battery will be needed and will easily supply the current.
Go power makes a great 3000w 24v https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-ISW3000-24-Certified-Inverter/dp/B01NCQ9TIT
(not the lowest cost option)
Yeah there is a good argument to go 12V for flexibility, especially for a portable (semi-portable) setup.
