diy solar

diy solar

Last fire.. :-(

from what I've personally seen pretty much all lifepo4 cells plump a little at full charge. In a typical cell not always enough to puff the outer case-probably because they have a little room to grow inside. So 152ah jelly roll in a 120ah case would be a lot more noticeable w/o necessarily meaning they where actually "swelling" more than normal.

my background is more mechanical than electrical professionally. So I am more familiar with things like compressive force. I torque a lot of pipe flanges, so I know what torques give me a proper crush on a gasket( usually 4-5000 psi. I hate having to torque rubber gasket flanges because rubber usually cannot be crushed over 1000 psi w/o disentigrating - and that makes getting a good bolt stretch (necessary to keep the bolt from loosening) almost impossible... anyway all that to say this-

a grade 5, 1/4x20 bolt/ allthread @ dry 8 ftlbs torque (proper torque for this hardware) has a compressive force of 2025 lbs. so assuming a standard 120ah cell is aprox 7"x7" thats a 49sq inch area to be compressed. assuming 4 points of compression on the cell (going from memory of the pics I saw earlier- i know my numbers will all be estimates) so thats 8100lbs of compressive force on a 49 sq inch area- or over 165psi or over 13 times the maximum compression recommended for lifepo4 prismatics.

Everyone has jumped on this compression bandwagon, but I have seen very few posts about maintaining the proper psi. It's very little- almost none- never enough to keep a nut even tight on allthread- which is probably why I have NEVER seen a professional pack that used anything more than tape to hold compression. 8ft/lbs is nothing. BUT it achieves 13X MORE compression than MAX compression on these cells.

Want proper compression, my personal advice, discharge your pack-put a rigid board on each end- wrap the pack in fiberglass reinforced tape. the slight swell at full charge will probably be all you need. In short these cells where crushed.
Lol...
Proper torque??, 8lbs something.
Going from psi to ? To ?
Dancing with numbers and conversion. I got lost after a few lines.

Please tell me how much is hand tight for you is in Nm torque.

I can tell you as I have a Torquemeter, who doesn't provide PSI numbers.
But Nm.
And I can tell you how much torque I use on a pipe wrench, hold with bare hand, and twist tight.
images - 2021-08-19T003307.347.jpeg


You can do the conversion.
0.5 Nm per 1/4 inch thread.
4 rows of cells.
15* (3 on each side)
That makes 6 X 0.5 Nm.

Yeah, probably if one is crazy enough to tighten to 8Nm for compression LiFePO4 cells...
He should not have them, and stick to building cars and cylinder head :),

@wild01
Please crunch your numbers again using 0.5Nm.
And tell me if it's crushed...
 
I planned to be done with this thread .... and don't really want to pile on ..... but, one thing that caught my eye was .... hand tight with a pipe wrench.
Pipe wrench
images - 2021-08-19T003307.347.jpeg
Unless Google let me down again, it's the correct translation for Dutch "pijpsleutel"

Not native English here.
And you got to admit, US/UK vs the rest of the globe..

Inches LBS, stone, pint, gallon, G-d knows how much more different names for the same thing that everytime is just a tad different.

Rest of the globe uses kilogrammes, liters and meters
Like Newtown..
Nm = meter...
I guess I'm to metric minded to even want to try to start conversion from farenheit to Celcius....
And all the rest of the strange calculation methods.

Sadly...
Thailand is somewhat USA oriented..
Here is everything just what is available.
Today in inch, tomorrow in mm

That would not be so bad if they keep it at that.
1.5 mm2 wire is anything between 1 and 1.5 mm2.

I have 2.5mm2 wire that just doesn't fit 1.5 crimp end socket..
Lol
Screenshot_20210819_005253.jpg
Most famous is the orange 35mm2 welding cable, a tad over 4mm thick.
Doesn't fit in 16mm2 lug, unless you take out a few strands.
It drowning in a 35mm2 lug..

That..
USA's AWG is a better indicator!!
Thai explanation:
It have thick insulation, so it can handle as much electricity as thin insulated real 35mm2.
Henceforth, we call it 35mm2..
???
Only in amazing Thailand :)
 
Lol...
What a difference between USA and the rest of the globe!! **

They are really handy, 10/11 in one wrench
And..
When you have threatend rod, it can be long when you attach, cut of later.
Socket set is limited to depth.

I think socket set is like this?
images - 2021-08-19T133429.830.jpeg

**
I've been in hardware stores in almost every European country, Russia, Maroc , Malaysia and Thailand.

They all have a wide variety of this type of wrench, different qualities and sizes.

Mostly metric, sometimes (seldom) the inches like 23243/58595 inch. (Joke)
You have to admit..
17/64 is a strange way of writing
0.675mm
For me it is :)
 
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Anyways...
This is the tool I used to twist with my hand.

images - 2021-08-19T003307.347.jpeg

To have a solid number to give you i did the same on my torque meter, who have me 0.5Nm torque.
That's dry, not lubricated.
With a washer.

For torque of 8lbs, almost 11 (!!) Nm
Not sure who ever would imagine that as "normal".
The studs/grubscrews can be tightened 3-3.5Nm (2.2 -2.6) to "max" 4-4.5Nm (2.95-3.3)
6.5Nm is the point where the terminal is supposed to start twisting in its housing.
That's 4.8 ft-lb.

8ft-lb... Almost 11Nm are forces unheard of in electrical engineering.
4.5Nm is already more force then most companies would recommend.

11Nm torque on 2 nuts would already be enough to crush the cells.
On 4.. electrolyte would be spurring out like a fountain :)

I had 6 per cell.
Sure, shared with it neighbor.
My math skills to calculate how much kg/square feet pressure there was, I don't know.
@wild01 , seemed you are skilled at it, just started with wrong numbers.
I'm curious how much it was!

If I recall correctly it's supposed to be 800kg/square feet.

(For me confusing again, why kg and feet? Why not kg/cm2 ??)
Only half metric.....
Sigh.

Does anyone remember from the Eve white paper/ specifications page??


I remember max torque in the terminals was 6.5 Nn.
But even that memory can be wrong :cool:

I needed to buy new water pump the other day.
Psi, Bar, Mega Pascale, 52 meter water head, and probably a few more I forgot to mention here...
Amazing Thailand have all different possible conversion types in one store.

Takes hours to make a list to see what pump is delivering how much pressure....
(I need180-250 PSI for RO system)
 
My numbers where based on recommended torque for a 1/4x20 grade 5 thread. Many people don't understand how oblt threads function... If you don't properly tension a thread it won't stay tight. Bolts act as Springs. I used all standard figures because you stated 1/4" thread. ( kinda hard to find metric charts for standard numbers) and also because I am American and standard makes much more sense to me. 6 rods power cell would actually lower the amount of torque required.
Here's the math. All in standard because the compression number is 12 psi. Get your compressive force from the charts I linked multiply by the number of rods used devide by the area of the cell.
My point here was more that the required pressure is so low compared to the necessary torque required to stretch the threads as to make that method very failure prone.
 
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Yes, but then multiply that. The mult factor is unknown, but two swollen cells are like two spheres at the contact, the surface area of contact is small. Potentially a 1000 times till it squishes a bit, then 100 times as the surfaces are mashed together. I would love to see inside a swollen cell as that happens, see how it responds. The best evidence so far is the layers crushed and caused a short which led to thermal buildup and fire. As seen in this thread.
 
My numbers where based on recommended torque for a 1/4x20 grade 5 thread. Many people don't understand how volt threads function... If you don't properly tension a thread it won't stay tight.
My point here was more that the required pressure is so low compared to the necessary torque required to stretch the threads as to make that method very failure prone.

Sure, torquing until the thread self-locks is one method. Some other locking method is needed in this case, since a particular tension is the goal.
Two nuts locked together, locking nylon inserts, metal tabs that bend up against nut flats, slip-over caps, safety wire, loctite.

Turnbuckle is another application that needs some method, locked with another nut in the following example:

 
Hmm, a turnbuckle isn't something that I thought of for a compression frame. Probably because it would be difficult to get a torque number with the tools I have. It would also require some interesting insulation, something a lot more involved than the simple plastic tube that slips on over the threaded rod.
 
Sure, torquing until the thread self-locks is one method. Some other locking method is needed in this case, since a particular tension is the goal.
Two nuts locked together, locking nylon inserts, metal tabs that bend up against nut flats, slip-over caps, safety wire, loctite.

Turnbuckle is another application that needs some method, locked with another nut in the following example:

My point here is more that the number being chased is so small vs the torque applied to hit that number as to be very failure prone. It's like trying to drive a brad nail with a 20# sledge. The spring method is an elegant solution, but I do not see a situation where just allthread and nuts to a rigid backer won't lead to a failure prone environment.
 
My point here is more that the number being chased is so small vs the torque applied to hit that number as to be very failure prone. It's like trying to drive a brad nail with a 20# sledge. The spring method is an elegant solution, but I do not see a situation where just allthread and nuts to a rigid backer won't lead to a failure prone environment.

Agreed, without springs it is fixed displacement.
Many people here built spring-loaded compression fixtures. Spring displacement gives more accurate force than torque.
Then they had to deal with bending-beam geometry and creep.
 
Bending geometry and creep..
Abracadabra to me :)

My torque method before I had torque meter was really simple.
Take a cell by the 2 studs and lift it.
If you can, it's not snug enough / not enough compression.

Make a twist more.
Try again.

It's stuck?
Enough compression.

Who needs something to lock?
It doesn't move or vibrate.
Many screws/nuts are just hand tight and stay like this for years as there is no reason for it to move.

For it to move there is force needed as an object standing still likes to stay that way.
It takes a lot of force to make it moving, compared to the force it takes to keep moving.

So I'm totally lost how you can think the cells got crushed with 0.5Nm torque per nut, 6 nuts.
23*23cm area
My finger probably would not even hurt with this clamping force!

In the huge clamping thread (+50 pages?) we all already concluded that having a row of empty cells (smallest state) snug fit between two walls is more than enough compression.
It doesn't need more.
When the cells get charged they "grow"

We are still talking tenth of mm here.

At fully charged the compression is roughly about Eve specifications.

The outer edges of the cells normally touch.
The center when empty bends inward. )( a tiny bit and fully charged flat / slightly bloating (tenth of a millimetre)

As the outer edges touching, they don't need more force, you can (well, should) not compress that.
All that's left is what the cells do themselves when fully charged.
Go ()

It doesn't matter if you clamp those edges with springs or bolts or what ever.

You can want to try to calculate the elasticity 1/4 inch threaded rod, but people...
There should not be enough strength / force to stretch the rod in the first place!!
If you are stretching it... (Extending)
You are using too much clamping force!

An empty cell looks a bit like this: )(
With a bottom _ and a top -
That flat part should not be bending.
If it does, you are crushing the cells.

And >|)( * )(.*)(|<
Will not reduce the "open" space between the cells.
(Now as * symbol)
This is a normal setup.

For me...
>|()*()*()|<
And that does push the bloating parts together.

Again, not a lot of force, just tight enough to make an easy lift out not possible.

Still...
I did push the gasses (?)
Or additional electrolyte out between the sheets.
(What is between the sheets when they laminate?
Do they wrinkle?
What makes the bloating space??)

Anyways, what ever makes them thick, they got less thick in time.

Not due too high clamping force in one time.
The bloating reduced, so I tightened a tiny bit more.
This a few times.
Last extra tighting (by hand, the xyz wrench thing) was weeks before the fire happened.

Not at a too low SOC and absolutely not during high SOC (what is as we know a thicker cell, more compression force due to the cells expansion).
Also not high capacity, just 3-5A charge...

It's not hard for me to see what went wrong and where.

I didn't crush the cells.
Anyone who things thin aluminium sheet metal is as strong as a motor cycle cylinder head (M6) and needs to have the same compression...
Should not play with LiFePO4 cells.

We absolutely can agree on the high Nm torque needed for good electrical contact, there is a catch with our lovely Eve and Lishen LiFePO4 cells!!!!

Weak aluminium terminals, with crappy made threads.
You can't apply the torque needed without stripping the thread.
Especially when you use the screws provided by the sellers.
The twisting motion gives so much stress on the aluminium threads, you might be able to mount it once or twice..

Untighten and tighten a few times, you have no thread left.

Something hardly spoken about in February last year.....

Even Will used the screws provided by the sellers, without torque meter.

There is problem one:
We know how much it should be, but can't be applied.

Solution is grubscrews, loctite and primer as both aluminium and stainless steel need activator.
With that combination you can apply enough torque to make good electrical contact.
One of the reason people now know and tell eachother, is due the failures in the past.....

Many Micro errors, failures.

My "line" isn't for nothing " making mistakes so you don't have to".
I seem always get the jackpot with the crappy quality units.
"Monday morning product" or the ones that slipped between QA testing, pre-mature launch, etc.

Murphy likes me ?
Even if I buy Victron or Outback, I probably will end up with their lowest quality unit, where it receives only positive feedback, mine will have major failures...
I've accepted this long long time ago.

Even did it a while as job.
Software testing.
Passed all QA testing from all different groups and panels, just need to pass Frank....
Within 5 minutes.. errors or crash :)
Murphy likes me ?

Why it decided to go in fire that moment, stays a question.
That there was a dangerous situation by using bloated cells, we all agree.

That I increased this danger by slightly de-laminating them, we also agree.

Lesson to be learned for people with slightly bloated cells:
Your F*cked!
You still can use them, but don't try to stop the bloating.
Embrace it, accept it and give it space to bloat even more!
As giving it compression, were it can be from rods, springs, wires, tape wood or what ever, is BAD.
The cells themselves will expand, and the weakest will de-bloat.

De-bloating is BAD.
It can/will eventually make a cell self discharge, with nasty results.

While not directly unsafe to use slightly bloated cells, they need space to freely expand.
- Yes that will reduce the capacity a tiny bit.
- Yes, during charge and discharge the voltages are lower and behave more peculiarly, often the sighn of damaged cells.

Damaged is not unusable, but needs special care and additional safety (!!!!)
 
My torque method before I had torque meter was really simple.
Take a cell by the 2 studs and lift it.
If you can, it's not snug enough / not enough compression.

Make a twist more.
Try again.

It's stuck?
Enough compression.

Who needs something to lock?
It doesn't move or vibrate.
Many screws/nuts are just hand tight and stay like this for years as there is no reason for it to move.

YOU need something to lock.

Anywhere you have a nut you need to use loctite or at least nylock nuts, IMO, at least in your frame. As things expand and (more importantly) contract, your nuts will loosen and move slightly.

For your battery connections you should use lock washers with your nuts.

My small DIY battery has 4 cells in a wooden frame. Even if the batteries don't expand and contract, the wood will as the humidity level changes between summer and winter. Every door in my 125 year old house swells slightly in the summer (and sticks) and then shrinks slightly in the winter (and works again). Add in battery contraction as you deplete them and things will come loose. My compression frame has nylock "lock" nuts on the outside so that it will never expand, and if the frame contracts due to humidity, temperature, or battery contraction it will eventually go back to the originally designed size, no larger.
 
YOU need something to lock.

Anywhere you have a nut you need to use loctite or at least nylock nuts, IMO, at least in your frame. As things expand and (more importantly) contract, your nuts will loosen and move slightly.

For your battery connections you should use lock washers with your nuts.

My small DIY battery has 4 cells in a wooden frame. Even if the batteries don't expand and contract, the wood will as the humidity level changes between summer and winter. Every door in my 125 year old house swells slightly in the summer (and sticks) and then shrinks slightly in the winter (and works again). Add in battery contraction as you deplete them and things will come loose. My compression frame has nylock "lock" nuts on the outside so that it will never expand, and if the frame contracts due to humidity, temperature, or battery contraction it will eventually go back to the originally designed size, no larger.
:)
So you are telling me that your casing will shrink, making too high compression, as it's wood, moves with nature and was built in the winter, as it doesn't go larger? :+)
(Joking)

Eventually....
Sure.
A nut not locked can go lose.
In a few weeks? I don't know.

I did not mark the nuts position on the threaded rods.

Perhaps it got less tight,
NOT due defeating cells (they where already bloated) but due nuts automatically twisting??

I guess earth vibes are different in your country then they are in Europe and Asia.

Here, a hand tight but does not move at all out of its own.

As stated many times, and once again, cells does not get bigger!
They will try to expand in the center.
With health cells as start, the upper and lower aluminium square sheet is the minimum size you can clamp down. (Almost 72mm for 280Ah Eve cells
If you want more, you crush :)

And with "empty" cells the walls are "hollow" bending inward. )(

Now I know in your country nature works differently.
Here, when something is hollow, compression on the edges will not increase the compression on the center.
It's an open space.

When the cell expands due charge, the walls go flat | and perhaps try to bulge.
As they are nice tight together, they can't.

All the springs in the world is not going to change this.
All the tighting nuts aren't going to change this.

What does happen is that in the center the cell will try to bulge.

With 15mm plywood, it can, a little.
Thick iron beam probably not.

We aren't talking about extremely high pressure.
Movement is minimal.

You can easily try by dis-charging all your cells and place them in a row (kissing in the long side)
> |||||||||||| <
And place a marker on the bottom at each side.
Now charge them till 95-100% make a new mark, with different colours.
Remove the row of cells and see if and how much they move.....

I doubt you are willing to try, I did.
With my 280Ah Eve, 16 cells.
Smooth floor base (plastic)
It didn't move one mm.
Nothing at all.

Healthy cells..
They expand and contract, thenth of mm, hardly noticeable.
And, they can, as the are hollow )( .
Going flat || gives no extra pressure.
Only when they start to bulge () they will give pressure.
And only on that time a box will provide counter pressure.

Healthy cell doesn't bulge...
So you need to stop a problem from getting worse, there is a problem at the start needed to give tention.

Probably not it in your country.
Must be different air pressure...
Cells here arrive )( and go ||.

In your country probably arrive || and go ()

A bit like my 152Ah cells who arrived || and some already slightly ()
After a few shallow cycles the where all slightly ()
What got worse over time.

Where as my 280Ah arrived )( ,
most of them, who didn't get visual damaged in the fire, still are )( and are fully charged.

Must be the air pressure.

The cells are here )( hollow, bend inward due slight vacuum in the cell.
If the air pressure in your country is much lower, it make sense that they are no longer )( but || on arrival.

Why nuts automatically turn in your country?
Beats me.

Most locations where there is no vibration, no high temperature changes, and some slight pressure, nuts stay like that for ages.

sure...
in time, due vibration by handing the things, they will turn.
not in days or weeks with absolutely no movement.

I'm going over in my head all the things that have hand tight nuts.

I really do want to believe you, just that my day to day experience is absolutely not the same as yours!!

like my drill.
2021-8-21 8-21-18.jpg2021-8-21 8-21-24.jpg

Two winged nuts/bolts hand tight.
I can make it really tight and it never needs adjusting.
When I do need to make adjustments, that's not so easy.
Especially if in the years there is dust/rust and such.

My +45 years experience with tools.
So, hand tight is enough.
It will keep the cap in place.

After many many hours iof usage, it does need to be re-tighten again.

I'm sure we can agree a drill will have a lot more fibrations then a battery on concrete floor.

Both are M6.
The winged nut has 1 thread.
Normal nut 4 threads.

No oil, so standard iron to iron resistance is higher.

And it's not a loose nut on a thread, it's tightened.
Just not that much force
2021-8-21 8-28-38.jpg
I can't take the nut between my fingers and unscrew.
To tight for this.

In my airconditioning controlled temperature room, cells have maximal 10c difference between high charge and discharge.

Extension of the 70cm iron rods is there. Naturally as iron stretches, and probably also a bit die temperature difference.
But not that extreme that it will make a loose nut.
Besides, I've always leaned to tighten a few times with "working" materials

Like aluminium wheels, you need to re-tighten after a week.
It "settles".
Wood also settles.

It must be a phenomenal only for your country that have screws untighten without fibrations and other external forces.
The expansion of the rod and cells won't do this in weeks.

If you talk about many years, yes, you are absolutely correct.

As per topic, I was able to tighten a few times the nuts due, in my idea, the de-bloating of the 152Ah cells.
Who where unhealthy to start with.

I didn't make markers, but it must have been visual, if the nuts would have untighten 3 turns!

Bloated cells are not a normal installation and situation.

Please do not compare standard good cause of action when building a pack, to the creativity needed with bloated cells.

As a start..
The normal space, 48mm wide, isn't sufficient. (152Ah cells are 48mm, 280Ah are almost 72mm)
Between 50-55mm, depending on the state of bloating..
And like a balloon is easy compressed a bit, so are bloated cells.

Just stack them 4 high is enough to slightly compress the lower cells.
(Who will bloat again when standing up, in a few charges)

For most contact a nut and washer are enough.
In harsh environment (vibration, high temperature changes, much force) a spring washer is needed.

For most electric contacts, one washer is good.
Additional (spring) washers isn't.
3.5-4 Mm torque is enough to have it locked.

Standard Spring washers will loose it's strength over time.
Normally not a problem, you will tighten it much higher then 4Nm.

Don't try this on your cells...
Or start reading my thread repair tread :)

For electric..
It's not the best solution.

There are hard metal spring washers who keep their strength.

What's more important..
The continued active compression, or galvanic corrosion?

I know I'm the only one who ever had a car accu probelms looking like this:
images - 2021-08-21T085228.260.jpeg

And in my few years in Thailand I haven't seen it yet.
Netherlands...
Sadly quite a few times.
Working at a garage might have something to do with that.. :)

Perhaps irrational fear for this.
Or you fear for magically unscrewed nuts.
Or both :)
 
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