diy solar

diy solar

LiTime 48V Battery Balancer For 24V/36V/48V Battery Bank

You have 200amp BMS in each battery so I would use the 225 amp MRBF fuse on the post - below are links - shop around you might find cheaper even sticking to the good stuff.


Keeps connections from corroding and will cut through the aluminum oxide on the battery terminal. A very thin coating is all you need. You use this at the connections because of the different metals involve causing galvanic corrosion.

Make sure you have good hydraulic crimper like the Temco brand or other good quality ones. The cheap ones off amazon are metric marked in a lot of cases and they don't convert across to AWG cleanly. So when you use them you end up with "wings" on your crimps verse clean hex shapes. You can buy wires with connections on them but with the number you will need you are better off with good crimpers, quality lugs (look for marine grade power or starter lugs), and good marked UL listed welding wire. Windy Nation is a good brand. I have used a few others that are equally good. The main thing is to avoid copper clad aluminum or the no-name unmarked wire. It can be undersized and metric and not fit the lugs right and again you end up with wings.
 
You have 200amp BMS in each battery so I would use the 225 amp MRBF fuse on the post - below are links - shop around you might find cheaper even sticking to the good stuff.


Keeps connections from corroding and will cut through the aluminum oxide on the battery terminal. A very thin coating is all you need. You use this at the connections because of the different metals involve causing galvanic corrosion.

Make sure you have good hydraulic crimper like the Temco brand or other good quality ones. The cheap ones off amazon are metric marked in a lot of cases and they don't convert across to AWG cleanly. So when you use them you end up with "wings" on your crimps verse clean hex shapes. You can buy wires with connections on them but with the number you will need you are better off with good crimpers, quality lugs (look for marine grade power or starter lugs), and good marked UL listed welding wire. Windy Nation is a good brand. I have used a few others that are equally good. The main thing is to avoid copper clad aluminum or the no-name unmarked wire. It can be undersized and metric and not fit the lugs right and again you end up with wings.
Great important 'nuts and bolts' stuff, I can't thank you enough! And tinned copper cable for marine applications? In a sense, all my applications can be considered marine since I live on the water in the inner banks of NC. Water is salt brackish. Tinned anything else? The 1/4" x 1" copper bars aren't tinned. Edit: I see one of the links is for marine product. thx
 
Tinned everything I think is what I would do... Lugs, and bus bars and anything else that can corrode and cause high resistance.

You can find instructions here on tinning your own bus bars since you already have them. Pretty easy at a high level is putting them in a solution along with the other metal and running a low current through it .

Make sure any heatshrink you buy has the glue on the inside to seal up the connection tight after they are crimped.
 
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