Looking for recommendations on components

[hankinohio]

Building a system based on a EG46000xp.
Which would you choose?
Any others you would recommend?

Have 4 battery choices...
1- EG4 powerpro 14.3 kwh $3799 ==$266/kwh
2-EG4 lifepower4 10.2 kwh $2518==$246/kwh
2-EG4 LL-S 10.2 kwh $2990==$293/kwh
1-Mammoth 9.6 kwh $3399==$354/kwh
Does anything make one stand ou,t other than price?

Panel choices seem endless

Hyundai 395W Bifacial Solar Panel ( Silver ) | Up to 470W with Bifacial Gain | HiS-S395GI === .30 / watt

Hyundai 395W Bifacial Solar Panel (Silver) | Up to 470W with Bifacial Gain | HiS-S395GI

Signature Solar provides solar panels, off-grid solar systems, grid-tie, and hybrid systems. Quality solar inverters, bifacial solar panels, complete solar kits, solar batteries. Featuring brands such as EG4 Electronics with their solar battery, LifePower4 and EG4 LLifePower4 and EG4 LL

signaturesolar.com

Hyundai 300W Half-Cell Monofacial Solar Panel ( Black ) | HiA-S300HG=== .28 / watt
https://signaturesolar.com/hyundai-300w-half-cell-monofacial-solar-panel-black-hia-s300hg/

​

Silfab Solar 380W Mono Solar Panel (Black) |Manufactured in USA |SL-380 HC=== .39 / watt​

Silfab Solar 380W Mono Solar Panel (Black) |Manufactured in USA |SL-380 HC

Signature Solar provides solar panels, off-grid solar systems, grid-tie, and hybrid systems. Quality solar inverters, bifacial solar panels, complete solar kits, solar batteries. Featuring brands such as EG4 Electronics with their solar battery, LifePower4 and EG4 LLifePower4 and EG4 LL

signaturesolar.com

​

Canadian Solar 400W Mono-crystalline Solar Panel (Black) | CS6R-400MS-HL=== .39 / watt

Canadian Solar 400W Mono-crystalline Solar Panel (Black) | CS6R-400MS-HL

Signature Solar provides solar panels, off-grid solar systems, grid-tie, and hybrid systems. Quality solar inverters, bifacial solar panels, complete solar kits, solar batteries. Featuring brands such as EG4 Electronics with their solar battery, LifePower4 and EG4 LLifePower4 and EG4 LL

signaturesolar.com

Dont need bi facial...but theyre cheap...what gives.
Thinking half cell would help with small amount of shading
(utility pole shadow) am I wrong here?
I am NOT unlimited on space so leaning toward fewer panels of higher wattage.

 

[KellyGB]

I am currently running a Renogy 400W system that was one of their sales promotion,
My current power production, is 5A, on it's best day.
(15.8a below what they are rated)
( 2/1/24)

Renogy Panel Specs;
100 x -4- = 400 watts of solar panels / 13.6 battery voltage,
-4- panels x 5.21a = 20.84 amp rating,
Rover 40a charge controller
My current power production, is 5A, as shown on the Rover screen
(15.8a, below what the combined rating should be)
My panels are rated as 400W & the Rover is rated as 520W
Two more panels should add another 200W = 600W panel array
The DC app says I am only getting 106W out of a 400W array

Renogy BT App:
Capacity; 100%
Voltage; 14.40V
Current; 0.29A
Power; 4W
~~~~~~~
DC Home App:
SOC; - 77%
Solar Volts; - 23.2V
Solar Amps; - 4.56A
Solar Power - 106W
All readings are through the Renogy 500A Battery Monitor with Shunt
attached to battery ground
~~~~~~~~
Barn Power Usage:
13v
11.1A
146W
============================

I would like to add two more of the Renogy 100w panels to my existing system,
This will theoretically add another 'RATED' 600W
The Rover is rated to handle 520W
The Rover's 'RATED' specs is: 12V @ ≤ 520W

On the battery charging side,
The Rover 40A specs says it can output charging rates up to 40A and as you can see,
my system is only outputting an average 4A - 5A, on a good day
My current production is 15.8a below what the panels are rated for
I have room on my array for two more panels & I thought I could install two more 100W panels,
for a total of 600W on a Charger Controller RATED at 520W ,
This could also increase my amp output
By adding the extra panels, I would stand a better chance of keeping my battery charged, 230AH 12v

Currently, about ever 4 days, I am having to
-turn off the array,
-turn off the battery from the control panel,
and run a Giander 540W lithium charger to get my battery back up to 100%AH
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My System:
4 x Renogy Solar Panel 100 Watt 12 Volt,
High-Efficiency Monocrystalline
-Wired in parallel-
1 x Rover Li 40A MPPT Charge Controller
Rated Solar Input Power, 12V @ ≤ 520W
1 x BT-1 Bluetooth Module
4 x 10A In-line Fuse (solar panels)
1 x 40A ANL Fuse (Inverter)
3 x Solar Y Branch Connectors MMF+FFM Pair
-----------------------------------------------------------
-The Renogy Rover 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller
Rated Charge Current: 40A
(40a represents the MAX amount of amps the controller can output -
GOING INTO THE BATTERIES)
Max. PV Input Voltage: 95 VDC
Max. PV Input Power: 12V/520W
Power Consumption: 100mA/12v
Max Battery Voltage: 32V
Max. Terminals Size: 8 AWG
-----------------------------------------------------------
Single;
LiTime 12V 230Ah, LiFePO4 Battery,with Low-Temp Protection
Built-In 200A BMS,
12.8v x 230AH = 2,944 watt hours
Fused In-Line, battery cable:
Blue Sea Systems 5001 MEGA/AMG Fuse Block with Cover, 400 Amp
-------------
How feasible will it be to add these two extra 100W panels?
-------------

As a follow up, I disconnected the panels & checked with a Simson meter,
after the 10a inline fuse.
Each panel is producing 20v but I couldn't get an amp reading, my lack of knowing how

 

[DIYrich]

If you can move the PowePro (300#), I would do that. Otherwise Lifepower and rack.

 

[hwy17]

I would choose the powerpro out of those options.

 

[hankinohio]

I felt the powerpro would be the best choice, feelin good about that. The panels....I have no idea. Why do some that seem so much better, cost so much less than others? Either the adage " you get what you pay for" does not apply to solar panels or I'm missing something. The thing is I don't know enough about them to figure out which it is.

 

[DIYrich]

Highest wattage, assuming dimensions and voltage work for you. Cost out additional $ for additional wattage, and see if it makes sense. Might be $0.30/watt for first 10kW, and $1.00/watt for the last 1kw. Also consider if last kW has shading issues specific to it.

I belive one issue with bifacial is more delicate back side. Otherwise, I don't see a problem ignoring backside production.

I would prefer non-china panels.

 

[Tripplett]

I decided on two LL-s during the Black Friday sale over the Power Pro. But it’s really a coin flip. For me I needed more flexibility and the PP was back ordered. I also wanted options like swapping in or out another rack battery easier later. But the PP is sweet and priced well. If I did it again I would probably go PP. It’s also outdoor rated so that could sway your decision based on needs.

 

[Mattb4]

I am currently running a Renogy 400W system that was one of their sales promotion,
...

You need to start your own Thread concerning your questions.

 

[shadowmaker]

I belive one issue with bifacial is more delicate back side. Otherwise, I don't see a problem ignoring backside production.

Hmm... Why would 2mm tempered glass backside be more delicate than thin plastic sheet on monofacials? It's not the plastic backsheet which enables walking over solar panels (don't recommend it though). BUT, the dual glass makes them almost twice heavier and that can be a problem sometimes.

To OP question about choosing bi/mono panels, it usually depends if they are going to be roof or ground mounted. On a black roof bifacials can't utilize their backside for production. On a more reflective (white color can be very reflective) roof backside production can be significant. For ground mount I'd choose bifacial even if they are 15% more expensive and if same cost/W bifacial every time, even when mounted on dark roof.

Not familiar with EG4 6000xp, but its current and voltage limits can affect what panel to choose.

Even I, a dedicated bi-fanboy, bought monofacials for my oncoming shed roof installation. I could have easily painted the roof white (now brown) to suit bifacials, but those new 550W monofacials were dirt cheap, so I just couldn't resist.

 

[KellyGB]

You need to start your own Thread concerning your questions.

Sorry, I am new to how these forums work, just as I am new to solar arrays.
I am a parts/ pieces guy & am currently learning the theory of solar & the interaction of the parts

 

[KellyGB]

You need to start your own Thread concerning your questions.

I am unsure where the New 'Thread' section is, that's why I asked about over paneling

 

[Mattb4]

I am unsure where the New 'Thread' section is, that's why I asked about over paneling

If you go to the home page or the Forums link https://diysolarforum.com/ you will see several Areas and subjects. Find the one you think applies and once you click on the Forum or Sub Forum you will be presented with all the Threads currently on it. There is a subject line area if you fill out it will start a new Thread where you can post your topic.

 

[740GLE]

Take a peak at these panels. I haven’t bought any, and not sure if these are pre-orders. Price is right.

https://www.altestore.com/store/solar-panels/msolar10bb-half-cell-all-black-410w-monocrystalline-perc-solar-panel-p43168/

 

[740GLE]

I am currently running a Renogy 400W system that was one of their sales promotion,
My current power production, is 5A, on it's best day.
(15.8a below what they are rated)
( 2/1/24)

Renogy Panel Specs;
100 x -4- = 400 watts of solar panels / 13.6 battery voltage,
-4- panels x 5.21a = 20.84 amp rating,
Rover 40a charge controller
My current power production, is 5A, as shown on the Rover screen
(15.8a, below what the combined rating should be)
My panels are rated as 400W & the Rover is rated as 520W
Two more panels should add another 200W = 600W panel array
The DC app says I am only getting 106W out of a 400W array

Renogy BT App:
Capacity; 100%
Voltage; 14.40V
Current; 0.29A
Power; 4W
~~~~~~~
DC Home App:
SOC; - 77%
Solar Volts; - 23.2V
Solar Amps; - 4.56A
Solar Power - 106W
All readings are through the Renogy 500A Battery Monitor with Shunt
attached to battery ground
~~~~~~~~
Barn Power Usage:
13v
11.1A
146W
============================

I would like to add two more of the Renogy 100w panels to my existing system,
This will theoretically add another 'RATED' 600W
The Rover is rated to handle 520W
The Rover's 'RATED' specs is: 12V @ ≤ 520W

On the battery charging side,
The Rover 40A specs says it can output charging rates up to 40A and as you can see,
my system is only outputting an average 4A - 5A, on a good day
My current production is 15.8a below what the panels are rated for
I have room on my array for two more panels & I thought I could install two more 100W panels,
for a total of 600W on a Charger Controller RATED at 520W ,
This could also increase my amp output
By adding the extra panels, I would stand a better chance of keeping my battery charged, 230AH 12v

Currently, about ever 4 days, I am having to
-turn off the array,
-turn off the battery from the control panel,
and run a Giander 540W lithium charger to get my battery back up to 100%AH
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My System:
4 x Renogy Solar Panel 100 Watt 12 Volt,
High-Efficiency Monocrystalline
-Wired in parallel-
1 x Rover Li 40A MPPT Charge Controller
Rated Solar Input Power, 12V @ ≤ 520W
1 x BT-1 Bluetooth Module
4 x 10A In-line Fuse (solar panels)
1 x 40A ANL Fuse (Inverter)
3 x Solar Y Branch Connectors MMF+FFM Pair
-----------------------------------------------------------
-The Renogy Rover 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller
Rated Charge Current: 40A
(40a represents the MAX amount of amps the controller can output -
GOING INTO THE BATTERIES)
Max. PV Input Voltage: 95 VDC
Max. PV Input Power: 12V/520W
Power Consumption: 100mA/12v
Max Battery Voltage: 32V
Max. Terminals Size: 8 AWG
-----------------------------------------------------------
Single;
LiTime 12V 230Ah, LiFePO4 Battery,with Low-Temp Protection
Built-In 200A BMS,
12.8v x 230AH = 2,944 watt hours
Fused In-Line, battery cable:
Blue Sea Systems 5001 MEGA/AMG Fuse Block with Cover, 400 Amp
-------------
How feasible will it be to add these two extra 100W panels?
-------------

As a follow up, I disconnected the panels & checked with a Simson meter,
after the 10a inline fuse.
Each panel is producing 20v but I couldn't get an amp reading, my lack of knowing how

Was this supposed to be a new thread?

 

[hankinohio]

Cost out additional $ for additional wattage, and see if it makes sense. Might be $0.30/watt for first 10kW, and $1.00/watt for the last 1kw. Also consider if last kW has shading issues specific to it.

Could you explain what you mean here, I'm just not seeing what your saying.
Guess it's pretty obvious that the powerpro is the way to go for battery.
When I got estimates from companys to install solar on our roof, they seemed to all spec sil fab panels.
Ive decided to go DIY with a ground mount array, at least to begin with.
Guess I need to throw in volts and amps, along with watts and price to decide on the panels.
740 those panels look interesting I'll take a closer look, and yes I think there was a response there
that should have been started in its own thread.

 

[DIYrich]

Could you explain what you mean here, I'm just not seeing what your saying.

It was a comment regarding which panels to buy. Let's say that you have room for 10kW of "standard" panels, and it will cost you $3,000 (30 cents per watt), or, you could put in 11kW of "high wattage" panels for $4,000. That additional 1kW of panels cost you $1,000 (100 cents per watt).

What's your payback period for the additional 1kW of production?

 

[KellyGB]

Was this supposed to be a new thread?

Yes, I need to move it or delete it

 

[hankinohio]

Ok I see what you mean now. Pretty simple when you put it that way.
At .17 / kwh those panels have to give me 590 kwh to make them pay for themselves...I think.
That being said, I have not put alot of emphasis on the pay back. Our electric goes out so often, I would need to figure the cost of fuel saved for the generator into the ROI time for the solar. I would like to understand why a 390 watt bifacial panel costs less than a 400 watt mono. I hope to get the best value, quality and price that works for me.
Going solar is at least as much if not more, about having power when the grid goes down as it is about saving money.
Ironically I have a bunch of glass battery cases from when my mother and uncle were children and the only electric was from a generator
and a bank of six volt batteries. Always learnin.