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LV2424 supply a Main Lug Sub Panel?

heirloom hamlet

life my way
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Feb 3, 2020
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Savannah, GA
Does anyone familiar with the LV2424 know if it is possible to run the 25a it is good for to a main lug sub panel?

Typically, these take two hot wires and the neutral to power 8 breaker spots or so. But the output power from the LV2424 is designed more for essentially just running a hot/neutral/ground extension cord plug end out. I'd like to run to a breaker box and distribute a few breakers to permanent dedicated outlets in the home. Not sure how one would do this.
 
I don’t see an issue with it.

follow code wiring, and you should be fine. Either just use 1/2 the panel, or jumper the hot lugs together. Alternatively, you could source an RV sub panel...they only have one hot, and the neutral and ground in the panels.
 
I don’t see an issue with it.

follow code wiring, and you should be fine. Either just use 1/2 the panel, or jumper the hot lugs together. Alternatively, you could source an RV sub panel...they only have one hot, and the neutral and ground in the panels.
You're saying I can just pigtail the hot wire when it goes in and split it to the other side? Genius. I am running a good ways so will be using the 2-2-4-6 I have. I hope it fits in the slots.
The RV recommendation is awesome too, I didn't know that.
I'm glad I asked and didn't throw the towel in.
 
Just make sure that you very clearly label the panel as both sides being L1, so somebody doesn't come along later and try to pop in a dual-pole breaker, thinking they can get a 240V circuit. You know, Murphy's Law.
At least they would just end up with a non functioning circuit, not something dangerous.
 
I personally would not wire a backup source anywhere near a grid-supplied source. I appreciate that these are being hard wired to be separate but, imho, the risk that sometime down the line you end up back-feeding the grid with a locally generated source is too high. Accidents do happen.
 
I personally would not wire a backup source anywhere near a grid-supplied source. I appreciate that these are being hard wired to be separate but, imho, the risk that sometime down the line you end up back-feeding the grid with a locally generated source is too high. Accidents do happen.
I'm not following fully. How would the grid be backfed if there is a completely separate system?
 
It's not 'completely separate' is it? Completely separate means to me:
  1. Electrically separate (obviously)
  2. Physically separate, in a separate consumer unit
  3. Identifiably separate, different colours, different sockets, different locations
  4. Accessibly separate, locked with different key
You are putting all this in the same box, on the same DIN rail! ?

Ordinarily, stuff like this wouldn't bother me but genuinely people's lives are at stake here, and as I've already said, accidents happen. Maybe one day somebody is installing a GFCI, notices two sets of breakers and combines the two 'to make sure the house is safe', mistakes happen and some lineman gets the good news. Maybe somebody is replacing or upgrading a breaker, disconnects the grid, checks the voltage like any competent electrician would and Bam! Didn't realise one half of this breaker box was still energised. Maybe the grid goes out and somebody thinking a breaker had tripped opens the consumer box not then realising that it was still live at mains, maybe their hand slips...

Maybe it's just me. Electricity should be respected. Linemen and women should be respected. Play it safe. Keep it separate.
 
No, it would be completely separate, maybe I didn't explain the layout fully or very well. Separate other than in the same home.

Separate breakers in separate outdoor breaker boxes, one marked solar.

Separate wires running into the home to separate outlets and outlet boxes, one marked solar.

Coming from separate feeder lines, one from the city, one from my solar shed. Each line buried in separate trenches.

That's the design and plan.

Does that sound better?
 
Thats fine but make sure you have a breaker suitable for your wire size. Going straight from the inverter to the mainlugs with no breaker is a bad idea. I dont really trust those inbuilt breakers on the mpp inverters.
 
Thats fine but make sure you have a breaker suitable for your wire size. Going straight from the inverter to the mainlugs with no breaker is a bad idea. I dont really trust those inbuilt breakers on the mpp inverters.
Yeah, I was planning on passing through a panel right out of the inverter through a 25a breaker, then on to the main lug.
So that brings up a question I've had... is there a fuse of some sort in those things? Is it on the inverter out side? How big is it?
 
Yeah, I was planning on passing through a panel right out of the inverter through a 25a breaker, then on to the main lug.
So that brings up a question I've had... is there a fuse of some sort in those things? Is it on the inverter out side? How big is it?
The MPP inverters have a breaker i believe on both input and output. Its behind the ac input and output holes on the inverter.
 

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