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Most efficient way to 12v system from 24v?

BartonB

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Joined
Oct 5, 2023
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22
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Jorden
I have a 24v system with a 24v inverter
But, there was no way to avoid it, I got some 12v appliances (30A)

I've considered a few options but don't know which route to take, in terms of efficiency / complexity / price
1. Getting one of those generic 30A 24V to 12V step down, connect to the 24v battery. gets hot and such
2. Something like A Victron Orion - expensive and getting hot like crazy as per my google search
3. A small solar panel with battery charger and a 12V small Lifepo4 battery - expensive

Any other ideas?
 
24VDC step down to 12VDC can be tricky, @ 30A that completely rules out any potted type converter instantly.
Additionally, you will need more accurate a 30V to 12V stepdown, because when you are charging 24V LFP and hitting 27V+ you need that big of wiggle.... believe it or not "shit happens". Also potted ones often will fail OPEN, so the 12V circuit get's the full 24V and that can be really nasty. Experience Speaking !!!

Yes, the Victron, Samlex Tier-1 converters are not cheap BUT they are seriously tough, hence why emergency services etc use them. You do get what you pay for, just gotta get the right sale.
This is a Good Deal IMO:

AVOID This Type
41v5sFSGmpL._SY445_SX342_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg
 
I have a 24v system with a 24v inverter
But, there was no way to avoid it, I got some 12v appliances (30A)

I've considered a few options but don't know which route to take, in terms of efficiency / complexity / price
1. Getting one of those generic 30A 24V to 12V step down, connect to the 24v battery. gets hot and such
2. Something like A Victron Orion - expensive and getting hot like crazy as per my google search
3. A small solar panel with battery charger and a 12V small Lifepo4 battery - expensive

Any other ideas?
I picked up 2 - 24/12 70A Orion's to run in parallel to the DC distribution which is 150A in my Motorhome, other's have posted that it works (Includes 2 slide outs, levelling jacks, generator start, lights et..) I'll be installing everything in the next week or so and will report back.
 
If you can split your 30A loads such that no single load is more than 10A, you could do 3 of these:


I intend to use one of these (different model) to potentially run a 12V small amp load off of my 48v battery.
 
I have 3 of these at an off-grid cabin. We set up the solar about 10 years ago, and ran 24v for "distribution" with these at a showerhouse, and two in the cabin to run 12v lighting and fans, etc. off of. We had an unexpected benefit of them always running the lights and fans at the same rate as the 24v battery runs down. So far, no failures. We run a minifridge on 24v when there, but otherwise everything else, lights, RV type furnace fan, ceiling fan, vent fans, radio, all on these pyle 24v to 12v converters.


We run one of these to each fuse block, so that more than one low draw item can be ran from each. Battery --> 24-12 step down --> fuseblock --> thing we are powering.

--- After posting I see these are pretty much sold out everywhere or no longer available. Makes sense. They were good, and lasted... Can't be having things like that in the market! ---
 
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I have 24-12 Orion with a battery on the 12v side that is kept charged by the Orion.

I have 12-48V converter off Amazon for the POE switch.

Both are reliable. The benefit of the Orion is that it's output voltage is adjustable and it can be switched on and off by shorting two contacts.
 
To emphasize, if you only need occasional surge, get the lower amp Orion and just put a 12v battery on its output side to cover the surge for slide-out and jack operation etc.
 
I have a 24v system with a 24v inverter
But, there was no way to avoid it, I got some 12v appliances (30A)

I've considered a few options but don't know which route to take, in terms of efficiency / complexity / price

2. Something like A Victron Orion - expensive and getting hot like crazy as per my google search
The 'hot like crazy' ones were going from 12V to 24V. You're going the other way and I've only heard about those running cool (for the non-isolated ones).

I run a 24V/12V 20A non-isolated Victron for my ham gear and it doesn't even get warm. I'm about to buy their 24V/12V 40A or 70A version as I need adjustable output so I can set it to 13.8V. I don't like the quick spades on the 40A hence why I'm thinking of going with the 70A.
 
Thanks everyone
The 30A (my new cool toilet) is a small surge of 1-3 mintus, usually will be at 10A (water pump and such)

I don't know If I should get the Isolated orion or the non-isolated...
Should I get a small smart orion with a lifepo4 battery or a bigger one without a battery?

Also, didn't know I can connect an MPPT to the 24v to charge a 12v, is that a thing? might be better efficiency?
 
I picked up 2 - 24/12 70A Orion's to run in parallel to the DC distribution which is 150A in my Motorhome, other's have posted that it works (Includes 2 slide outs, levelling jacks, generator start, lights et..) I'll be installing everything in the next week or so and will report back.
What wire gauge are you using for this monstrosity?
 
24VDC step down to 12VDC can be tricky, @ 30A that completely rules out any potted type converter instantly.
Additionally, you will need more accurate a 30V to 12V stepdown, because when you are charging 24V LFP and hitting 27V+ you need that big of wiggle.... believe it or not "shit happens". Also potted ones often will fail OPEN, so the 12V circuit get's the full 24V and that can be really nasty. Experience Speaking !!!

Yes, the Victron, Samlex Tier-1 converters are not cheap BUT they are seriously tough, hence why emergency services etc use them. You do get what you pay for, just gotta get the right sale.
This is a Good Deal IMO:

AVOID This Type
41v5sFSGmpL._SY445_SX342_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg
My dude, you sure the Victron Orion fails close?
I ordered that but can't find any info on that
 
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