diy solar

diy solar

MPP-SOLAR LV6548

jasonhc73 said:
L N G and L N G


The LV6548 is single-phase 120V only.
Click to expand...


How do you wire that up in a subpanel?
With a L1-N-L2 you can stick L1 wire on one leg of the subpanel and the L2 on the other leg and neutral to neutral. Is their any in depth videos on YouTube showing how to wire up a subpanel when the hybrid inverter has 3 wires with only 1 hot leg of 240. Especially someone who has multiple units instead of just 1.


My units that I put a pic up above are also a 3 wire with a Ground/ Hot / Neutral both the in and out and I have no clue on how to wire those up. It is 240v 60 hertz

Was gonna take those down and buy 4 more of another brand that works with North American current where its simple L1-N-L2. Or have a 4 wire L1- Ground-Neutral- L2

Don't see why thats so difficult to manufacture .
 
Bleedingblue said:
How do you wire that up in a subpanel?
With a L1-N-L2 you can stick L1 wire on one leg of the subpanel and the L2 on the other leg and neutral to neutral. Is their any in depth videos on YouTube showing how to wire up a subpanel when the hybrid inverter has 3 wires with only 1 hot leg of 240. Especially someone who has multiple units instead of just 1.


My units that I put a pic up above are also a 3 wire with a Ground/ Hot / Neutral both the in and out and I have no clue on how to wire those up. It is 240v 60 hertz

Was gonna take those down and buy 4 more of another brand that works with North American current where its simple L1-N-L2. Or have a 4 wire L1- Ground-Neutral- L2

Don't see why thats so difficult to manufacture .
Click to expand...
You have to have two lv6548s. When you connect each LV6548 together and then set them up one leg becomes 0° the other becomes 180°. The N and L get bonded together by you. You get all 4 different wires to send to the subpanel.

The lv6048/lv5048 have all 4 connections in one box. And in reality they are actually two lv3024/2424s in one box, and pre-wired together for you.

20210204_104928.jpg20210204_104933.jpg20210204_104939.jpg20210204_104945.jpg
 
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jasonhc73 said:
You have to have two lv6548s. When you connect each LV6548 together and then set them up one leg becomes 0° the other becomes 180°. The N and L get bonded together by you. You get all 4 different wires to send to the subpanel.

The lv6048/lv5048 have all 4 connections in one box. And in reality they are actually two lv3024/2424s in one box, and pre-wired together for you.

View attachment 35901View attachment 35902View attachment 35903View attachment 35904
Click to expand...


Lol that all confuses me. It was like talking to growatt and him telling me that I needed to keep 3 units at 240 and 1 unit using a 240 splitter. Just went over my head.
 
When you use 4 of em do you got to treat them as 2 units and 2 units? Only 2 units communicate with each other? Or all have to communicate and current share?
 
This was disappointing to see. I do not see a difference between the units I have now and these. Was really wanting to purchase 4 of these.

Mine
20201126_140032.jpg



And the MPP





Screenshot_20210205-045740_Samsung Notes.jpgScreenshot_20210205-045829_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
jasonhc73 said:
I don't recall see what you have now.

What do you have now?
Click to expand...

I have Revo II from Sorotec
When I ordered them I wanted North American current of 240 of course and 60 hertz.

I was expecting 120-N-120
What I got was the pic up above of the Ground-Hot-Neutral. It says 230 on bottom plate but unit is 240 and 60 hertz on the settings.

Doesn't do me much good when my subpanels operate on two legs of 120v and a neutral.

I think I'm just gonna have to break down and take a loan out for a couple of Solarks :((( wish they were half priced.
 
jasonhc73 said:
Only when the sun shines on it at 1000 w/m².
DON"T think that it is impossible for it to happen, I bought a weather station with a light sensor just to know. https://ambientweather.com/amws2902.html

Several times last summer it was well over 1000 w/m². I saw my "1800" watt strings do 2200 watts at least a dozen times.
Keep it simple, 4 strings of 5; ie 5S into each PV input.
The cable is very cheap. https://mwands.com/solar-pv-cable-8-awg-by-the-foot.
Click to expand...
There are only two PV inputs. 4 strings of 5 would need 4 inputs. Do you mean two stings of 4S2P? I am facing the same dillema. The 18a limit means Zero parallel if your panels are over 9a. Is that correct, or is there some leeway on the amps? 9.81 x 2 is 19.62 amps, which is over 18.
I would seem to think there is some leeway, as the manual shows 2 strings of 6 panels on each input as the max, with the example panel as 9.x amps.
 
Sanwizard said:
There are only two PV inputs. 4 strings of 5 would need 4 inputs. Do you mean two stings of 4S2P? I am facing the same dillema. The 18a limit means Zero parallel if your panels are over 9a. Is that correct, or is there some leeway on the amps? 9.81 x 2 is 19.62 amps, which is over 18.
I would seem to think there is some leeway, as the manual shows 2 strings of 6 panels on each input as the max, with the example panel as 9.x amps.
Click to expand...
Each input supports 4000 Watts, so yes there is some wiggle room, but not much on the amps. If running into Amp limit its a lot easier to up the voltage. You do not have to have equal amperage on the PV inputs.


4 strings because it's a 240V setup. The LV6548 only does 120VAC. For 240AC you have two inverters, and 4 PV inputs
 
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Probably a stupid question, but what is the amps at the 240 output? Trying to figure out if I can run a steam shower with the 2 LV6548's. Thanks everyone....many more stupid questions to follow.
 
Hi everyone, I'm new to all this and just trying to learn from people that know a lot more than me.

I'm thinking about getting a pair of LV6548.

There has been talk on here about how to configure the panels. I talked to MPP Solar. They said PV input is 19A max. Above 19A it will trip and shut down. Wasn't clear if the whole unit shuts down or just the charge controller. Also wasn't clear if it will restart on it's own or if someone needs to restart it.

There has been talk about 4 strings of 5S2P. Two for each LV6548. In order to stay below the 19A limit a 2P string would require panels with an ISC of 8A or less. I looked through a bunch of panel specs. and panels with 8A or below are not easy to find.


Someone said to the forget multiplying by 1.2. Could someone explain why one should forget the 1.2? The engineer I spoke with said you had to use 1.2 if you lived anywhere it might get cold. He didn't say what "cold" was. Is it 40f or -10f? So with a 2P string with ISC of 8A you'd have 8A*2=16A*1.2=19.2A.

On the Volt side if you did 5S you'd need a panel with a VOC of 43V or less. 5*43=215*1.2=258V.

I did a quick look and the best I could find were 310W panels with a VOC of 40.1. So a 5S string would have 240V and 1550W for each string. Giving us 6200W total for the 4 strings. A long ways from the LV6548's rated 16,000W PV input.

Bottom line is that given the above numbers, how do we get closer to the rated 16kw?

Or perhaps 6-7kw is it for a pair of LV6548 with their low Amp input rating. If so then we'd need to get another solar charge controller or two in order to get to PV input of 14kw. Which is the number I'm looking for. Guess I could get two more LV6548s, but really don't need more AC output. Just need more PV input.

By the way, can you even connect some random SCC to the battery and have it play nice with the LV6548s?

If any of this is wrong could you please explain what and why it's wrong.

Thanks much for any input.
 
Pearman said:
Hi everyone, I'm new to all this and just trying to learn from people that know a lot more than me.

I'm thinking about getting a pair of LV6548.

There has been talk on here about how to configure the panels. I talked to MPP Solar. They said PV input is 19A max. Above 19A it will trip and shut down. Wasn't clear if the whole unit shuts down or just the charge controller. Also wasn't clear if it will restart on it's own or if someone needs to restart it.

There has been talk about 4 strings of 5S2P. Two for each LV6548. In order to stay below the 19A limit a 2P string would require panels with an ISC of 8A or less. I looked through a bunch of panel specs. and panels with 8A or below are not easy to find.


Someone said to the forget multiplying by 1.2. Could someone explain why one should forget the 1.2? The engineer I spoke with said you had to use 1.2 if you lived anywhere it might get cold. He didn't say what "cold" was. Is it 40f or -10f? So with a 2P string with ISC of 8A you'd have 8A*2=16A*1.2=19.2A.

On the Volt side if you did 5S you'd need a panel with a VOC of 43V or less. 5*43=215*1.2=258V.

I did a quick look and the best I could find were 310W panels with a VOC of 40.1. So a 5S string would have 240V and 1550W for each string. Giving us 6200W total for the 4 strings. A long ways from the LV6548's rated 16,000W PV input.

Bottom line is that given the above numbers, how do we get closer to the rated 16kw?

Or perhaps 6-7kw is it for a pair of LV6548 with their low Amp input rating. If so then we'd need to get another solar charge controller or two in order to get to PV input of 14kw. Which is the number I'm looking for. Guess I could get two more LV6548s, but really don't need more AC output. Just need more PV input.

By the way, can you even connect some random SCC to the battery and have it play nice with the LV6548s?

If any of this is wrong could you please explain what and why it's wrong.

Thanks much for any input.
Click to expand...
4KW per input. (period)
2 times 8 is 16, not 19.
VOLTS times AMPS equals WATTS.

When it gets cold, the Voltage goes up, not the amps. Cold is below 30°F. It's not digital, the colder it gets the more resistance the wires have until they warm. There is a very high probability the voltage will be at or near VOC when below freezing temps. During warm and hot temps the voltage will not be near VOC.

If you want more than 16 kW PV, get more inverters in parallel or bigger rated inverters

In an off-grid build, you have to build the array to what the maximum possible sunny day might be during summer. Not what the least amount of sun will be during winter.

MPP SOLAR is the Sams Choice of inverters. If you want Coca Cola get SMA, and pay for it. SMA offers far more capability. There are many inverters that work in the 500V or 1000V range, but none of them are in this price range.
 
jasonhc73 said:
4KW per input. (period)
2 times 8 is 16, not 19.
VOLTS times AMPS equals WATTS.

When it gets cold, the Voltage goes up, not the amps. Cold is below 30°F. It's not digital, the colder it gets the more resistance the wires have until they warm. There is a very high probability the voltage will be at or near VOC when below freezing temps. During warm and hot temps the voltage will not be near VOC.

If you want more than 16 kW PV, get more inverters in parallel or bigger rated inverters

In an off-grid build, you have to build the array to what the maximum possible sunny day might be during summer. Not what the least amount of sun will be during winter.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply.

So if I understand you right, you are saying that the 1.2 multiplier is only applied to the Volts and not the amps. And going over the VOC only applies if it gets below 0 right?

If I take a string of 5S1P of 370W VOC 48.12 V and a ISC of 9.92 A. It will only provide 1850W at 240.6 V. and 9.92A. If I apply the 1.2 to the 240.6 V I get 288.7 V.

Can't do 2P because I'd be over Amps at 19.84 A.

It only gets below 0 here once or twice a year, and it's only on overcast cloudy days. So if I did 6S and forget about the 1.2 I'd have 288.7 V and 2220W. Better but sill only a bit over half of the rated 4kw.

So again I ask, given the low amp limit of 18A, how do we get closer to the rated 4kw?
 
That Low of PV input current spec does not sound right.
I have PIP-1012LV-MK (12V system) which MPPT charging spec of 1000W, max VOC of 150V.
I am using three 230W SunPower SPR-230 panels connected in parallel, the PV input current is about 16A (PV Voltage is about 39V, so I'm getting a little over 600W) as I am typing this.
 
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Bud Martin said:
That Low of PV input current spec does not sound right.
I have PIP-1012LV-MK (12V system) which MPPT charging spec of 1000W, max VOC of 150V.
I am using three 230W SunPower SPR-230 panels connected in parallel, the PV input current is about 16A (PV Voltage is about 39V, so I'm getting a little over 600W) as I am typing this.
Click to expand...
I agree with you, but according to MPP Solar the 18A and 250V max PV input is correct for the LV6548. I've been looking at 72 cell panels. Without much luck finding ones with a ISC 9A or less. Then I started to look at 60 cell panels to get a lower ISC. Found one that is 285W @ an ISC of 8.37A and a VOC of 44.8V. So 6S2P would give 3420W per PV port. Much better than any 1P combination could find.
 
Pearman said:
I agree with you, but according to MPP Solar the 18A and 250V max PV input is correct for the LV6548. I've been looking at 72 cell panels. Without much luck finding ones with a ISC 9A or less. Then I started to look at 60 cell panels to get a lower ISC. Found one that is 285W @ an ISC of 8.37A and a VOC of 44.8V. So 6S2P would give 3420W per PV port. Much better than any 1P combination could find.
Click to expand...
My exact spec for my system are:
Max PV Array Opne Circuit Voltage is 145VDC
PV Array MPPT Voltage Range: 15 ~ 115VDC

So based on the math, my max PV input current is = 1000W/145V = only 6.89A, but my measured current is 16A @ 40V input on my system..
If PV input Voltage is 115V then the current will be 1000W/115VDC = 8.69A..
Some pther MPPT, I.E. Victron MPPT, will show max PV input Is (shorted cicuit) spec. which almost as high as charging current.

I just look up the spec of your model and it does say 18A per each PV input..BTW, you should read page 8 about the PV panel.
Page 9 shows the example of 330W Solar panel with Imp 9.79A, so two strings (6 per string) in parallel for one PV input (= 3960W) will be a little more than 18A.
 
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