243V only can happen if you unplug both ends and short it out to itself. Ya know like when you stick your tongue on a 9V.the Vmp s what the panel did at 1000 w/m² test light.
Thanks! that simplifies my wiring a bit. I know I can wire the panels directly to the unit without fuse/breakers but would I need a disconnect of some sort?
mwands.com
Either way I’m loosing all my stuff lol. It’s worth it just for the ease of disconnecting the panels for safety reasons.I use a Midnite solar DC circuit breaker for my disconnects. If you want to be code compliant, you should have a disconnect outside between the panels and the entrance to the building, so firemen can watch your house burn down or squirt water on everything and make it wet. ?
Fuses and Breakers | Missouri Wind and Solar
Missouri Wind and Solar stocks a wide range of fuses, breakers, switches, and disconnects for wind turbines, solar panels, battery banks and other low voltage renewable energy equipment.
It does make it easy to turn everything off and not get hassled with the MC4 connector.
The installer I have is 70 MB. PM me if you want to try it out. I can use WeTransfer to send it.
Thanks, I just send PM.
If you are using LiFePO4, that is not recommended. There are many other 16s BMS's designed for 16s LiFePO4, why try to use something that it is not designed for?
Why is it not recommended? Can't I still set my low voltage?
If you want to only use 15, you need LFP, not LiFePO4. It is a 4v cell, not a 3.2v cell.
batteryuniversity.com
agree with above but another thing is assuming the LV6548 is like the LV5048 the low voltage cutoff actually cuts off the inverter and WTLL NOT ALLOW IT TO RESTART ! until the voltage is over a higher number that MAY require you to charge the batteries with a different charger to get them high enough for it to turn back on.. I suppose the voltage may "bounce back" high enough but maybe not. Suppose you could fool the inverter into turning on with some small batteries in series like alarm batteries or lawnmower batteries or even a buch of AA s but I wouldn't want the headache and constant monitoring.
I bought my growatts from
thx a lot....i'll look into itI bought my growatts from
You might reach out and see what he can do for Canada. Ian is a good contact.
when you charge your car at 7.6kw is that all coming from your battery or from your solar and battery? if you have enough solar to keep up with the demand would you be able to charge your car anytime the sun is shining? or do you deplete the battery and then have to wait for the battery to recharge before you can start charging your car again?
The charging is from the battery, and solar if available. I only have 800 to 1400 watts PV though at this time of year.
My LV5048 uses the PV without going through the battery as I am sure the LV6548 does in fact there are displays showing the amps battery charging and the load watts or KWhr . Remember if you plan on doing 240v split phase you will need an even number of LV6548 s or use as 2 different panels with 3 units 0ne for a 120 panel and 2 for a 240 split panel but you would also need 2 sets of batteries maybe. You definitely need at least 3 units for 22kw of panels and maybe more depending on their voltage and wattage of individual panels since current limited to 18 amps and voltage limited to 250v. If you have say 300 watt panels with VOC of 9.1 then you can't parallel and would only be able to connect about 6 to each MPPT circuit The 18 amps may be very limiting for many potential users. 450v with 18 amps would be much more useful. You might be able to put 2 strings in parallel to each MPPT though. You would also need 2 Solark 12 s if you went that route for 22kw of panels. Remember also the LV 6548 like many other units are not Batteryless when used in parallel.
