Jim Burrow
Solar Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2020
- Messages
- 516
Well, I am getting there with my Solar Project for the house?
The system excepts 110vac from either the utility company or Gas generator. Or from the solar/battery combination.
At this moment in time, the Utility will be set up as primary with the battery and Solar as a backup. – money issues retired and not rich!
Shown in the image below is the Power transfer box, with a set of switches (A, B, and C) that excepts input power from either the utility company or a gas generator via switch “A”.
Switch “B” diverts the 110vac from either the gas generator or the Utility company to either the Solar converter/inverter (PIP-2424LV-MDS) box or directly to the house sub-circuit breaker panel box.
The function of switch “C” is to either divert the Utility/gas 110vac to the Sub-panel or from the Power Converter to the Sub-panel.
The Power Converter (pip-2424lv-mds) can be programmed to have the Utility company be the primary source of power and the Solar/battery be backup incase the Utility power goes out. Or the solar can be programmed as Primary with the Utility kicking in if the solar and battery power drops below threshold setting. No matter how the system is set up, all combinations will keep the battery charged.
I will have the system set up for the Utility to be Primary as I do not have the Lithium batteries and Solar panels yet. Right now, I’m just using (2) 12v-35ah junk lead-acid batteries connected in series for 24vdc that I found in a throwaway bin.
During testing, I used a 300-watt floor fan which is close to what power my house requires for the everyday activity (computer, TV’s, refrigerator, and a couple of fans and lights). Note that the system only controls the black wire side of the breaker panel (110vac between the Black wire and the white wire)
The cloth washer and dryer and heater breakers are moved to the red wire side of the breaker box (110vac between the Red wire and white wire) While there is still 220vac between the Black wire and Red wire for the Air Conditioner.
With respect to the junk batteries, they ran the 300-watt floor fan for 1 hour before the Utility power took over.
Still have more work on rubber insolation of the wire lugs for power going into and out of the box for safety and to seal the clear box from moister. Then get an electrician to install it for house insurance reasons. Installation must be done by a licensed electrician.
So far, I have a little over $600 invested in this project.
Figure #1 - Solar Project setting on my workbench. On the left is my Power Transfer box and on the right is the power controller. In the transfer box, the double pole, double throw switches are in the Utility power position to bypass the controller and go directly to the house sub-breaker panel.
The system excepts 110vac from either the utility company or Gas generator. Or from the solar/battery combination.
At this moment in time, the Utility will be set up as primary with the battery and Solar as a backup. – money issues retired and not rich!
Shown in the image below is the Power transfer box, with a set of switches (A, B, and C) that excepts input power from either the utility company or a gas generator via switch “A”.
Switch “B” diverts the 110vac from either the gas generator or the Utility company to either the Solar converter/inverter (PIP-2424LV-MDS) box or directly to the house sub-circuit breaker panel box.
The function of switch “C” is to either divert the Utility/gas 110vac to the Sub-panel or from the Power Converter to the Sub-panel.
The Power Converter (pip-2424lv-mds) can be programmed to have the Utility company be the primary source of power and the Solar/battery be backup incase the Utility power goes out. Or the solar can be programmed as Primary with the Utility kicking in if the solar and battery power drops below threshold setting. No matter how the system is set up, all combinations will keep the battery charged.
I will have the system set up for the Utility to be Primary as I do not have the Lithium batteries and Solar panels yet. Right now, I’m just using (2) 12v-35ah junk lead-acid batteries connected in series for 24vdc that I found in a throwaway bin.
During testing, I used a 300-watt floor fan which is close to what power my house requires for the everyday activity (computer, TV’s, refrigerator, and a couple of fans and lights). Note that the system only controls the black wire side of the breaker panel (110vac between the Black wire and the white wire)
The cloth washer and dryer and heater breakers are moved to the red wire side of the breaker box (110vac between the Red wire and white wire) While there is still 220vac between the Black wire and Red wire for the Air Conditioner.
With respect to the junk batteries, they ran the 300-watt floor fan for 1 hour before the Utility power took over.
Still have more work on rubber insolation of the wire lugs for power going into and out of the box for safety and to seal the clear box from moister. Then get an electrician to install it for house insurance reasons. Installation must be done by a licensed electrician.
So far, I have a little over $600 invested in this project.
Figure #1 - Solar Project setting on my workbench. On the left is my Power Transfer box and on the right is the power controller. In the transfer box, the double pole, double throw switches are in the Utility power position to bypass the controller and go directly to the house sub-breaker panel.
