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Need Help with Everything Solar

MattSolar11

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Mar 15, 2022
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Thinking of buying an off-grid solar system for backup power. Looking at 250 watt panels. The VOC is 37.6 and 15 amp fuse. I plan on getting 6 panels. What type of battery, inverter, charge controller, etc do I need. I really don’t know where to start and don’t won’t to start a fire. I just need something to run a few lights, appliances, laptop for off grid. I figure I will use around 6200 kwh per day. Can someone please help me design a system based on the 6200 kWh needed or slightly more. For example a Lifepeo4 big battery, cables and exactly everything that I will need. I’ve been watching videos, so I’m familiar with some of the lingo, but still don’t exactly understand it yet. Thanks so much.
 
6200 kwh per day
That seems a little high. Considering the average home uses 800kwh +/- per month lol. You mean 6 or 62?
I made a 16s system out of 310s with a eco worthy solar hybrid inverter and 6 250w panels. I didn't make it with anything in mind other than 310s were available and reasonably priced. I did a pseudo load test a little bit ago and ran a space heater on low (11a @120v) for 9 hours. Pretty good usable capacity compared to total, and that was before my better top balance. Figure out the actual kwh you expect to use, or you can do what I did and just make one and adapt to it later. I made mine with the intention of it offsetting a generator and it basically does that. I can run my homes combi water heater which gives me heat and hw, both fridges, an a/c if its hot out. I can't run 2 a/c's and a microwave at the same time, but I wouldn't do that with a generator anyway.
I spent $2500 on 16 310s with a Daly 100a bms. $500 on the eco worthy 3500 inverter 200 on 6 250w panels with mounting hardware and $100 on misc stuff.
 
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That seems a little high. Considering the average home uses 800kwh +/- per month lol. You mean 6 or 62?
I made a 16s system out of 310s with a eco worthy solar hybrid inverter and 6 250w panels. I didn't make it with anything in mind other than 310s were available and reasonably priced. I did a pseudo load test a little bit ago and ran a space heater on low (11a @120v) for 9 hours. Pretty good usable capacity compared to total, and that was before my better top balance. Figure out the actual kwh you expect to use, or you can do what I did and just make one and adapt to it later. I made mine with the intention of it offsetting a generator and it basically does that. I can run my homes combi water heater which gives me heat and hw, both fridges, an a/c if its hot out. I can't run 2 a/c's and a microwave at the same time, but I wouldn't do that with a generator anyway.
I spent $2500 on 16 310s with a Daly 100a bms. $500 on the eco worthy 3500 inverter 200 on 6 250w panels with mounting hardware and $100 on misc stuff.
Yeah see I may not know what I’m talking about. Sorry I think it is 6.2kwh daily. Can you be more specific in your gear, if you don’t mind. Not sure what all that is. Thanks so much
 
Yeah see I may not know what I’m talking about. Sorry I think it is 6.2kwh daily. Can you be more specific in your gear, if you don’t mind. Not sure what all that is. Thanks so much
So the batteries are 310 amp hour prismatic sales that are in series to make one giant 48 volt battery. 16 gives you a lot of options whether you want to go four packs of four two packs of eight one pack of 16. It also lets you choose if you want to go 12 24 or 48 volt. I could have made it much larger, in terms of capacity if I had went 12 volts but then my inversion ratio would be much greater 10 to 1 as opposed to my three and a half or whatever it is to one. That's referring to what the inverter has to do to bring the DC voltage up to AC voltage, in my case 48 up to 120. You'll find here most guys that build stuff for off grid use that isn't going inside of a camper we'll go straight to 48 volts as opposed to starting off with 12 or 24 only to decide 48 is better later on, that's what I did. I got the batteries from Alibaba the salesman was named minji they took about 2 months from order date until arrival.
The solar hybrid inverter combines a solar charge controller, inverter, and AC to DC charger. It lets me take in Sun and charge my batteries it lets me charge batteries off the Wall if I want to and then it lets me run AC appliances off the batteries. It also incorporates an automatic transfer switch where I can plug things directly into the hybrid inverter while it's plugged into the wall and it'll run on house power until the house power is cut from an outage or anything and then the batteries will take over but I don't use it for that.
My panels are just some leftovers that were pulled off of a roof I got off Facebook marketplace, nothing too special about them.
 
That seems a little high. Considering the average home uses 800kwh +/- per month lol. You mean 6 or 62?
I made a 16s system out of 310s with a eco worthy solar hybrid inverter and 6 250w panels. I didn't make it with anything in mind other than 310s were available and reasonably priced. I did a pseudo load test a little bit ago and ran a space heater on low (11a @120v) for 9 hours. Pretty good usable capacity compared to total, and that was before my better top balance. Figure out the actual kwh you expect to use, or you can do what I did and just make one and adapt to it later. I made mine with the intention of it offsetting a generator and it basically does that. I can run my homes combi water heater which gives me heat and hw, both fridges, an a/c if its hot out. I can't run 2 a/c's and a microwave at the same time, but I wouldn't do that with a generator anyway.
I spent $2500 on 16 310s with a Daly 100a bms. $500 on the eco worthy 3500 inverter 200 on 6 250w panels with mounting hardware and $100 on misc stuff.
Thanks for responding back. My current Plan is to buy between 6 to 8 solar panels at 250 was each. I am thinking of going with the amperetime batteries 12v200A. Based off of this set up, can you suggest a particular inverter, charge controller, or a combo unit that will fit into the specifications. I am new to the solar, but with these trying times I want to be able to have some type of power if the grid goes down. VOC for panels is 37.6, Max Power Voltage is 30.3V, and Max Power Current is 8.27A.
 
You are basically working at this backwards. You first determine the power you want (in this case 6.2 kWh), then decide how many days of automony (days without sun) you need, then decide on a battery size and system voltage. The last thing you do is select the number of panels you need to accomplish this. Your location factors into this. The number of panels to generate on average 6.2 kWh is going to be different in Scotland than it is in Arizona. You want to plan on generating what you need on the shortest day of the year, not the longest.

I'll throw out some math for you to guide you in the right direction. Keep in mind the individual component variables may change, but the math stays the same. So, alter the math to fit your stuff.

6.2 kWh = 6200Wh of power.
For two days without sun that's 6200Wh X 2 days = 12,400Wh
If you don't want to deplete that battery past 50%, then you need 24800Wh of power.

At a 24V system voltage 24,800Wh/24 = 1033Ah batteries
At a 48V system voltage 24,800Wh/48V = 517Ah batteries.

A 48V system looks good. The battery size is just about the same as what I am running right now. I have twelve of these ...

Now you can determine how many watts of panels you need to keep this battery charged properly. Looking at the Rolls site, they recommend 1/8C as the charging rate. So, for a 568Ah battery, charging at least at 50V, that works out to be (568/8) X 50V = 3550W of panels. But, since you almost never see panels putting out their rated wattage, I always include a fudgefactor (85%) to compensate for lower then expected production. So, that 3550W becomes 3550W/0.85 = 4176W of panels. BTW, I built may arrays with 4500W of panels, so I exceeded my own math by about 10%.

So, with the parameters I set, you'd need a 48V system powered by 520-570Ah battery, and fueled by 16 to 18 250W panels.
 
Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. :) Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round :) ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.
 
You are basically working at this backwards. You first determine the power you want (in this case 6.2 kWh), then decide how many days of automony (days without sun) you need, then decide on a battery size and system voltage. The last thing you do is select the number of panels you need to accomplish this. Your location factors into this. The number of panels to generate on average 6.2 kWh is going to be different in Scotland than it is in Arizona. You want to plan on generating what you need on the shortest day of the year, not the longest.

I'll throw out some math for you to guide you in the right direction. Keep in mind the individual component variables may change, but the math stays the same. So, alter the math to fit your stuff.

6.2 kWh = 6200Wh of power.
For two days without sun that's 6200Wh X 2 days = 12,400Wh
If you don't want to deplete that battery past 50%, then you need 24800Wh of power.

At a 24V system voltage 24,800Wh/24 = 1033Ah batteries
At a 48V system voltage 24,800Wh/48V = 517Ah batteries.

A 48V system looks good. The battery size is just about the same as what I am running right now. I have twelve of these ...

Now you can determine how many watts of panels you need to keep this battery charged properly. Looking at the Rolls site, they recommend 1/8C as the charging rate. So, for a 568Ah battery, charging at least at 50V, that works out to be (568/8) X 50V = 3550W of panels. But, since you almost never see panels putting out their rated wattage, I always include a fudgefactor (85%) to compensate for lower then expected production. So, that 3550W becomes 3550W/0.85 = 4176W of panels. BTW, I built may arrays with 4500W of panels, so I exceeded my own math by about 10%.

So, with the parameters I set, you'd need a 48V system powered by 520-570Ah battery, and fueled by 16 to 18 250W panels.
Thanks for your comments. I am on a budget. So it’s about what I can afford, not so much about what my power needs are? I can afford 6-8 250 watt panels. The VOC is 37.6, Max Power Voltage is 30.3, and Max Power Current is 8.27Amps for these panels. This is for off grid shtf scenario. So whatever power this outputs will be fine by me. Can you tell me based upon this configuration, what type of inverter, charge controller, etc that I need to accomplish this.
 
Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. :) Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round :) ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.
Thanks for your comments. I am on a budget. So it’s about what I can afford, not so much about what my power needs are? I can afford 6-8 250 watt panels. The VOC is 37.6, Max Power Voltage is 30.3, and Max Power Current is 8.27Amps for these panels. This is for off grid shtf scenario. So whatever power this outputs will be fine by me. Can you tell me based upon this configuration, what type of inverter, charge controller, etc that I need to accomplish this
 
Thanks for your comments. I am on a budget. So it’s about what I can afford, not so much about what my power needs are? I can afford 6-8 250 watt panels. The VOC is 37.6, Max Power Voltage is 30.3, and Max Power Current is 8.27Amps for these panels. This is for off grid shtf scenario. So whatever power this outputs will be fine by me. Can you tell me based upon this configuration, what type of inverter, charge controller, etc that I need to accomplish this.
OK, so let's do some noodling here. Some thoughts:

You're on a budget and there are still a LOT of parts you need to buy that are going to add up quickly. Knowing the budget would help, but let's just go with what we know so far and do some napkin math.

Most mid-range MPPT controllers (and you're going to need one) are happy in the 140-150v PV input range, so that's a 3s string max. With that you'd get 6 panels in a 3s2p config for about 1500w of panel. Rule of thumb is 4 hours of sun a day, so call it 6Kw of solar generation per day for purposes of napkin math.

A 12v system is going to severely limit you, so go with a 24v or 48v system. At 24v you'll need a (1500w / 24v) = 62.5a controller, but since you'll never see the full power from those panels most likely you can get away with a 60a version. I'd recommend something like the EPEver 60a or something along those lines.

At 48v you can step it down to a (1500w / 48v) = 31.5a, and go for a 40a version that supports 48v (which not all of them do) for your battery banks.

Speaking of battery banks, you have to choose whether to spend the money up front for LFP and go with something like Chins/Ampertime or spring for the rackmount batteries. 24v@200Ah and 48v@100Ah are about $1500ea and give you 4800watt hours of power. This is one of those places you can cheap out if you have the space and are willing to do some maintenance by getting deep cycle batteries from WallyWorld and doing some upkeep with water as needed. Those will cost you right about $100ea and give you 12v @ 60Ah of usable power (since you can't really discharge them below about 50%), but on the other hand if you went 24v you could get 14 of them for the same price as the 24v rackmount, put in 2s7ps gives you 7*60Ah @ 24v = 10,080 Wh or 16 of them in 4s4p for 4*60Ah*48v = 11,520Wh! Obviously that's a huge overkill on the batteries but it shows the concept.

OK, so onto the inverter. This is one of the places you can't really skimp out on, you're going to really want to spend the extra cash for a Pure Sine inverter. Yes, modified sine is much cheaper, and you can put the money you saved towards replacing the refrigerator and computer and TV you fried with the cheap-ass inverter.

A safe number for a 24v system (remember, there's a budget) is about a 3000w inverter which will draw a max of about 150a of current. At that amperage things like wire and fuses are much easier to get hold of and manage as copper prices get big quick. Here's where a trade off happens: Do you go for a smaller inverter to save cash and standby draw and just be really careful about how much you plug in at once, or do you step up to a 48v system and a bigger 6Kw+ inverter so you can run the hot tub and air conditioning and well pump?

The more wattage you need to draw over a day the more expensive the inverter and batteries are going to be. If you're just looking to make do and see what you can get out of it, I'd suggest a smaller inverter, like 2Kw and a 24v system which is still a pretty healthy amount of power without breaking the bank.

Do you need any kind of lower voltage supply? Do you have any 12v systems

Rules of Thumb:

At 150a a fuse blows, at 300a a fuse blows up!
Never skimp on your fuses and wires, FUSES ARE CHEAPER THAN FIRES!
The tube style breakers are generally krap.
You want enough battery to run your loads for 3 days without sun.
More to follow. :)

Tl;Dr: I'd suggest, because of the budget:
You get 6 panels in a 3s2p config and face 1 string SE for morning sun and the other SW for afternoon sun.
Go for a 24v system using WallyWorld batteries, get 16 batteries in a 2s8p config.
About a 2Kw PURE SINE inverter.
ANL fuses at each battery bank, bus bar, inverter.

If you have money to burn:
Swap out the batteries for 2 of the 24v/200Ahrackmount batteries.
Get 9 panels for a 3s3p setup facing SE, S, SW for all day sunlight and production.
Step up to a 3Kw inverter.
Add a 3rd battery to the mix and get a 3Kw AIO from Growatt/MPP/Midnite Solar instead of piecemealing the system.
 
Thanks for your comments. I am on a budget. So it’s about what I can afford, not so much about what my power needs are? I can afford 6-8 250 watt panels. The VOC is 37.6, Max Power Voltage is 30.3, and Max Power Current is 8.27Amps for these panels. This is for off grid shtf scenario. So whatever power this outputs will be fine by me. Can you tell me based upon this configuration, what type of inverter, charge controller, etc that I need to accomplish this.
Again, I have to emphasize that you have an inappropriate fixation on your panels. You really need to be focusing more attention on the batteries. The reason is that solar capacity is cheap, while battery storage is expensive. Focusing on the panels instead of the batteries is self-defeating. There is a history of legions of failed solar systems with former solar mavens soured on solar simply because they would not focus their attention on good battery maintainence, and trashed good batteries because of inadequate charging.

That being said, I think it is reasonable to design a system within some of your parameters. I thought that the 6.2kWh number to be quite higher than what I myself experience. With my inverter running 24/7 to power the frig, lights, TV, and computer, I find myself consuming about 3.0kWh per day. Let's use that number. Let's also get some cheap batteries at Costo, which has 215Ah 6V golf-carts for 99$each. Walmart has something similar.

A 48V system with Costco golf-carts would give you 215Ah X 48V X 50% = 5160Wh of useable power. Enough for up to maybe two days without sun if you keep most things off. Call that 800$ plus tax and delivery?

(215Ah/8) X 50Vcharging = 1344W. With a 85% fudge factor, that works out to be 1344/0.85 = 1580W of panels. I got 260W REC panels a month before last for 65$ each, 390$ total with local pickup.

If you got six 250W panels (~30V) you could wire them in 3S2P to get about 16A at 90V. 90V is too close the the 100V limit of cheaper controllers, so I would say go with a 150V model. Look at Epever's Tracer 6415AN. Can handle 60A and a Voc of 150. I think it runs ~270$ right now. This amperage is higher than what you need, but will allow for future expansion.

Samlex makes a 1500W 48V sine-wave inverter for 700$. It has NEMA sockets, but can also be hard-wired into the main electrical panel.

So, the total....
eight 6V batteries: 800$
six 260W panels 390$
60A charge controller: 270$
1500W SW inverter: 700$
wiring, fuses, stuff: 500$
Total: 2660$, more or less

One advantage of the components I listed is that they can all be upgraded individually as your finances allow. Add more panels at some future date. Upgrade the batteries to replace the GC. Buy a higher capacity inverter with more bells and whistles like spilt-phase 120/240V AC, generator charging, grid-connection, ect.
 
OK, so let's do some noodling here. Some thoughts:

You're on a budget and there are still a LOT of parts you need to buy that are going to add up quickly. Knowing the budget would help, but let's just go with what we know so far and do some napkin math.

Most mid-range MPPT controllers (and you're going to need one) are happy in the 140-150v PV input range, so that's a 3s string max. With that you'd get 6 panels in a 3s2p config for about 1500w of panel. Rule of thumb is 4 hours of sun a day, so call it 6Kw of solar generation per day for purposes of napkin math.

A 12v system is going to severely limit you, so go with a 24v or 48v system. At 24v you'll need a (1500w / 24v) = 62.5a controller, but since you'll never see the full power from those panels most likely you can get away with a 60a version. I'd recommend something like the EPEver 60a or something along those lines.

At 48v you can step it down to a (1500w / 48v) = 31.5a, and go for a 40a version that supports 48v (which not all of them do) for your battery banks.

Speaking of battery banks, you have to choose whether to spend the money up front for LFP and go with something like Chins/Ampertime or spring for the rackmount batteries. 24v@200Ah and 48v@100Ah are about $1500ea and give you 4800watt hours of power. This is one of those places you can cheap out if you have the space and are willing to do some maintenance by getting deep cycle batteries from WallyWorld and doing some upkeep with water as needed. Those will cost you right about $100ea and give you 12v @ 60Ah of usable power (since you can't really discharge them below about 50%), but on the other hand if you went 24v you could get 14 of them for the same price as the 24v rackmount, put in 2s7ps gives you 7*60Ah @ 24v = 10,080 Wh or 16 of them in 4s4p for 4*60Ah*48v = 11,520Wh! Obviously that's a huge overkill on the batteries but it shows the concept.

OK, so onto the inverter. This is one of the places you can't really skimp out on, you're going to really want to spend the extra cash for a Pure Sine inverter. Yes, modified sine is much cheaper, and you can put the money you saved towards replacing the refrigerator and computer and TV you fried with the cheap-ass inverter.

A safe number for a 24v system (remember, there's a budget) is about a 3000w inverter which will draw a max of about 150a of current. At that amperage things like wire and fuses are much easier to get hold of and manage as copper prices get big quick. Here's where a trade off happens: Do you go for a smaller inverter to save cash and standby draw and just be really careful about how much you plug in at once, or do you step up to a 48v system and a bigger 6Kw+ inverter so you can run the hot tub and air conditioning and well pump?

The more wattage you need to draw over a day the more expensive the inverter and batteries are going to be. If you're just looking to make do and see what you can get out of it, I'd suggest a smaller inverter, like 2Kw and a 24v system which is still a pretty healthy amount of power without breaking the bank.

Do you need any kind of lower voltage supply? Do you have any 12v systems

Rules of Thumb:

At 150a a fuse blows, at 300a a fuse blows up!
Never skimp on your fuses and wires, FUSES ARE CHEAPER THAN FIRES!
The tube style breakers are generally krap.
You want enough battery to run your loads for 3 days without sun.
More to follow. :)

Tl;Dr: I'd suggest, because of the budget:
You get 6 panels in a 3s2p config and face 1 string SE for morning sun and the other SW for afternoon sun.
Go for a 24v system using WallyWorld batteries, get 16 batteries in a 2s8p config.
About a 2Kw PURE SINE inverter.
ANL fuses at each battery bank, bus bar, inverter.

If you have money to burn:
Swap out the batteries for 2 of the 24v/200Ahrackmount batteries.
Get 9 panels for a 3s3p setup facing SE, S, SW for all day sunlight and production.
Step up to a 3Kw inverter.
Add a 3rd battery to the mix and get a 3Kw AIO from Growatt/MPP/Midnite Solar instead of piecemealing the system.
Thanks. I am going to take my time and read over this carefully. Sorry but may still have some questions after this. Thanks so much
 
Folks always like to work in reverse, starting with what you want to power and go from there. All the basic formulas and general thought processes are designed around that. Even though you can design around the panels, or design around a budget and let the power be what it will be, I still think it's best to design around a need, because you'll know what it can do in advance, instead of being disappointed to find out it won't do what you want after you've built it. Also, it puts your thoughts in the right place about usage, which has value beyond this initial setup, because in a true shtf scenario, you'll need to know the basics for when it's time to scavenge some other component into your system, understand the power requirements of something else, understand those needs over time, etc.

With that said, I think the best thing you can do is reduce your core needs as much as possible to give yourself flexibility, like being able to walk down the street and swipe a 12v car battery to keep yourself going. Many cars even have a 12vdc-to-120vac inverter in them, but where are you going to find a 48v inverter? Not likely to happen. So what are your needs? Pretty much any shtf scenario revolves around food, which means storing and cooking. People have been cooking via open flame for thousands of years, so let's wipe that off the board. That leaves food storage. If you have the ability to dig a little root cellar, you'll help yourself reduce your storage and energy needs. But you'll still want something for more perishable items.

Some homesteaders run a chest freezer for a couple/few hours a day as a replacement for a refrigerator. It seems to be a great method of cooling with lower energy usage, plus cool air sinks, so you aren't dumping tons of cold air out every time you open a chest. Let's use this one for example, if you can live with the size. It uses 250kwh per year, or about 700 watt hours per day. That's the daily equivalent of seven 100 watt light bulbs running for one hour, or one 100 watt light bulb running for seven hours, or anything in between. It's very little power usage to run one like that full time, let alone for just three hours, so you can see how reducing your needs and buying the right things in advance, will make a huge difference to the solar kit you can get away with.

Here is a good video that walks you through the process, plus the math examples he uses could possibly work fine for you as is. If you're in an area with lots of sun like he is, then you can probably get by with just one battery, but I'd keep everything else the same to give yourself some bandwidth to either charge in less time, or be able to use some power during the day while still having enough to charge batteries.

 
Folks always like to work in reverse, starting with what you want to power and go from there.
Defining the problem you want to solve, first, is not working in reverse.
There is a history of legions of failed solar systems with former solar mavens soured on solar simply because they would not focus their attention on good battery maintainence, and trashed good batteries because of inadequate charging.
This should be the opening to your first (next?) book you write!
 
Never said that "defining a problem someone wants to solve first" is working in the reverse. That's such incredibly broad language.

When people think about where electricity comes from, from the power plant all the way to the vacuum cleaner, the very last item is the vacuum cleaner. But, you don't start your design from the source, you start at the end, with the the vacuum cleaner. We work in reverse.
 
Too broad, because a lot of people are trying to design their power source first and sorting out that design their first problem. It's natural to think of things that way, because you're building the solar system, not the vacuum cleaner. That's why I really like that Will Prowse video above, it's wonderfully simple and illustrative and shows exactly why they have to flip the thought process.
 
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