New PV system and discussion from California

[Bob The Builder]

Is like Dakota?

South Louisiana, in cajun country!

 

[Bob The Builder]

Good information as usual, I'm leaning towards a Sunny Boy invertor with wind turbine capable. We get a lot of wind in the winter and a lot of sun in the winter.

Older model Sunny Boy have MPPT algorithm options for wind/hydro turbine. The newer models only algorithms for PV.
At least for wind, a dump load and voltage limiter is required between turbine and Sunny Boy.

If intermittent wind power is fed through a UL-1741 inverter, whenever power drops to zero the inverter will forget grid had been good, waits for 5 minutes of DC present while monitoring grid before feeding again.

You might want a DC coupled solution for wind.
Of course, if lithium battery and BMS that can disconnect, might still need a voltage limiter. I would think with lead-acid just a diversion regulator and dump load would be sufficient.

I just looked at all my bills for one year. my average KWH per day is = 38. So an 8 KW system would be about right! That is a lot of panels. I may start with a 5 KW but rack for an 8KW. I'll need to see if I have the room on my Shed roof. Shed is 24×40

 

[SaNAly]

How do I use Suny Boy? It is 240v inverter

 

[Hedges]

I just looked at all my bills for one year. my average KWH per day is = 38. So an 8 KW system would be about right! That is a lot of panels. I may start with a 5 KW but rack for an 8KW. I'll need to see if I have the room on my Shed roof. Shed is 24×40

Multiple orientations. 8kW PV will be just about right for a 5kW inverter without clipping.

 

[time2roll]

How do I use Suny Boy? It is 240v inverter

My solar was installed with a SunnyBoy inverter.
Connect the 240v output to the bottom of the main panel, connect the solar to the solar input. Switch it on and it goes.

Of course all ratings and connections need to meet code and you will need a permit to generate from your utility.

 

[Hedges]

How do I use Suny Boy? It is 240v inverter

Yes, they are 240V (and 208V & 277V), except for some early 1800W models you only see occasionally, and over-priced.

Either connect it a dual breaker of a 120/240V panel, or use a transformer to connect it to 120V circuit.
The new models (cost $1200 to $2000) have latest features required by code in many locations. That's probably required if you do an install with permission.


Bootleg:
The older models (cost $200 to $1200) work great.
But either way, they don't have zero-export built in. Some add-on products may communicate with them to implement that, but I haven't used those.
If your loads are always greater than production, added PV wouldn't be detected. If placed behind the switch of something like A/C, so they only produce power when that load is enabled, could work. But power has to be present for 5 minutes before they turn on, so best for a load that runs for hours (like pool pump.)

 

[SaNAly]

Either connect it a dual breaker of a 120/240V panel

Are you saying that what's marked as Neutral need to be connested to one of the panel phases??

 

[Hedges]

If your inverter has L1, L2, N connections, then typically it will auto-recognize 208V, 240V, 277V when all three are connected.
I use some of mine that way. Others, I hung as replacements where only L1, L2, Ground were wired through conduit.
In that case, I placed jumpers differently to tell the Sunny Boy which voltage to expect.

The ones I'm using also have jumpers to specify positive vs. negative ground PV array (grounded by GFCI fuse inside inverter.)
Another model I've used is transformerless and has ungrounded array. Most of the newer one are like that, but it is more important to have PV panels which don't suffer from "PID", degradation which occurs if grounded in a way they don't like.

 

[SaNAly]

If your inverter has L1, L2, N connections, then typically it will auto-recognize 208V, 240V, 277V when all three are connected.
I use some of mine that way. Others, I hung as replacements where only L1, L2, Ground were wired through conduit.
In that case, I placed jumpers differently to tell the Sunny Boy which voltage to expect.

The ones I'm using also have jumpers to specify positive vs. negative ground PV array (grounded by GFCI fuse inside inverter.)
Another model I've used is transformerless and has ungrounded array. Most of the newer one are like that, but it is more important to have PV panels which don't suffer from "PID", degradation which occurs if grounded in a way they don't like.

? would you be so kind to provide drownings to how to use single phase 240v investor. I'm sorry but I'm confused ?. Appreciate your time. ?

 

[Hedges]

It varies by model. Page 32 of the following manual shows some details of internal wires and external connections unique to this model. It includes an external disconnect switch. Other pages address how it is done with/without using neutral.

https://www.altestore.com/static/datafiles/Others/SB5000US-7000US-installation.pdf

What model number inverter do you have, or are you considering?

 

[SaNAly]

https://www.altestore.com/static/datafiles/Others/SB5000US-7000US-installation.pdf

So it is not a single phase inverter. I like it

 

[Hedges]

Single phase? Split phase? Two wires of 3-phase? High-leg?
These are compatible with several.

Some commercial models are 3-phase only.

A number of 3-phase configurations, various voltages, are shown. Residential is typically 120/240V split-phase, one side of the triangle in one of these configurations. Some (typically apartment/condo) use two legs of 120/208Y

https://files.sma.de/downloads/COMMONGRIDCONFIG-AUS184628.pdf

 

[Bob The Builder]

Multiple orientations. 8kW PV will be just about right for a 5kW inverter without clipping.

Thanks

 

[Ben2022]

Fellow Californian here- I’m doing a SOL-Ark install myself with Ruixu batteries.

My question is for CA require the DC battery cables to be ran inside conduit if they are inside a building? Is there a specific type of conduit not allowed?

Thanks