new travel trailer system nearing completion

[SomebodyInGNV]

I finally have something to show for my inane questions in the past months. I have yet to install this in the front outside cabinet of my trailer but it's substantially complete. The terminal lugs may seem uninsulated because the shrink-wrap is clear.

The panels are not yet installed. Right now I have 2 in series leaning on the wall outside the back door. Of course, it's a gloomy day.

When installed there will be 4 x 180W Newpowa panels mounted flat on the roof in a 2S2P array. An 8AWG cable will travel down inside the front frame of the left front closet to the controller.

Smaller cables going down to the right will connect by a single 4AWG cable to the OEM converter. The black will go to a chassis ground immediately below the cabinet. I also upgraded the chassis ground to the power center to 4AWG. I'm not upgrading the WFCO charger/converter, instead depending on the solar system to charge the LFP batteries fully.

2/0 cables going up to the right will connect to a 2000W PSW inverter, about 1' away. It will connect to a 30A WFCO auto-transfer switch (below). It fits on the back of the power center making for an easy install and compact package.

The inverter remote switch will be close by. When the inverter is on, the AC and converter breakers will be off, so it will be well within the inverter limits. I also added a 15A circuit with a new outlet in the solar cabinet. If I upgrade the converter later, that circuit will be the power source.

The Bluesea disconnect switch (I repurposed one I had) has 4 positions. I can cut off the inverter separately from the house/converter. The lower breakers isolate the SCC from the panels and battery.

The batteries are SOK 12V 100A with a max sustained discharge (in parallel) of 200A. They'll tolerate a higher surge to the Renogy inverter longer than the inverter will.

 

[JoeHam]

Looking good!

I’m not a fan of non Bussman circuit breakers in this form but your system your choice. Some off brands have had catastrophic failures. In particular the T-Tocas ones.

One small suggestion, on the left side red wire just under the MPPT consider rotating the lug so it’s not as much stress on where the wire exits your crimped connector.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

One small suggestion, on the left side red wire just under the MPPT consider rotating the lug so it’s not as much stress on where the wire exits your crimped connector.

Looking for suggestions is why I'm here. Which of the two lower Tocas breakers are you referring to when advising to rotate the lug?? The left (PV) or the right (battery)?

Addendum to original post: the metal screen under the controller is an 8.5 x 12 cooling rack. It provides a standoff from the flammable surface and, not being solid, should aid in cooling. It was also easy to mount the controller to the wood behind it since I didn't have to drill any holes. The inverter will be mounted on a 12 x 17 cooling rack for the same reason.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

One small suggestion, on the left side red wire just under the MPPT consider rotating the lug so it’s not as much stress on where the wire exits your crimped connector.

I think you're referring to the left-most wire? If that's what you meant, it's temporary. The actual PV wire will come straight down from above and connect at a right angle to the breaker with no, or very little, bend in the wire.

 

[JoeHam]

I think you're referring to the left-most wire? If that's what you meant, it's temporary. The actual PV wire will come straight down from above and connect at a right angle to the breaker with no, or very little, bend in the wire.

Great! That was the one.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

I'm now powering my Weber outdoor electric grill with the 2K inverter. It's supplying a continuous 167A. It's a horrible waste of energy but it's just a test. I also want to deplete the batteries completely so I can put them through a full discharge/recharge cycle.

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

Thanks to the generous and patient sharing of expertise here, this is finally done and working in my Rockwood Mini-Lite trailer.

Summary:

• SOK 12V 100A LFP battery x 2, in parallel.
• Newpowa 180W solar panels x 4, in 2S2P array. 10AWG wire on roof, 8AWG wire from gland to SCC.
• Epever Triron 4210n MPPT SCC (40A/100V) with Bluetooth, bought used for cheap.
• Renogy 2000W PSW inverter with remote switch in kitchen.
• QWork 300A battery monitor, mounted next to inverter switch
• WFCO 30A ATS piggy-backed on OEM converter/charger (yes, I have only 15A from the inverter.)
• Upgraded charge line between battery and OEM WFCO charger by adding 4AWG welding cable to reduce voltage drop. With existing 8AWG, is equivalent to 3AWG.

SCC and batteries. SCC is mounted on a baker's cooling rack for cooling and to stand off from flammable plywood. ANL fuse is 300A.


Inverter in adjacent compartment, also on cooling rack. Hard-wired to ATS. Picture isn't upside down, inverter is. 2/0 cable is ~7' round trip to battery.

Inverter detail to show air gap.


Newpowa 180W panels

 

[Whinny]

I think that looks great....
A nice simple usable system that has adequate capacity for your use. I do like the WFCO transfer switch it simplifies wiring versus a built in transfer. I did see a video of an A/C running off that exact inverter, it did have a soft start device in it though, give it a try....
If your testing stuff out give us a idea of the charging rates over time with the converter, it's something I want to do but I'm still stuck in the lead acid battery world with my trailer....
Sure wish I could fit that much solar on mine.......

 

[SomebodyInGNV]

I do have a soft-start device on the A/C and I'm sure I can run it on the inverter because I do the same with my Honda EU2000i. It has less amperage then my inverter.

That said, it wouldn't last long and I have no plans to use it that way.

 

[efmrrt]

I like the bakers rack for a stand off