Opinions wanted, 48v truck camper setup

[Smoked~black16v]

Hello,

My name is Jake and I got sucked into the solar wormhole early last week lol. Ive been none stop trying to read and research items I will need as well a best plan/setup.

After starting to research I performed a 3 day power audit on my Lance 1181 Truck camper.
85-91 and sunny all 3 days
Day 1: 10.6 kWh 7am-7pm 6.4 1 light, a/c set to 71, fridge on propane. was in an out from time to time
Day 2: 13.4 kWh 7am-7pm 9.3 " " fridge on A/C.
Day 3: 10.4 kWh 7am-7pm 6.2 " " back on propane

I have do some math to see if running the A/C for most of the day.

4x 400watt panels ( 5.58 average hours during months id be using) 8928-30% i figured i could pull in 5-6 ish kWh

Im 100% ok with having to run the genny for an hour if necessary so that is part of my plan if needed.

Setup: 48v

2x 40amp WZRELB MPPT 170v PV max input
1x 3000w sungoldpower
160ah 16s with smart daly 200amp BMS (i have to build do to space available, the rack setups would be nice though)
48v-12v buck converter
various pieces (breakers, fuses, etc)

one final test I did (i race motorcycles) I tested my tire warmers since they are digital. I test the 1hr warm up (625watts used) then rest and watched the next 40 mins (410watts) when at the track the warmers would be running 40 mins of each hour from 9-5.

I feel i could make it 2.5 days on my setup plus the 8.2kwh battery. if the gen must run thats fine, battery cap will be added as time goes on as well as i can fit 5 panels (2000watts).

If anyone has any input on the items i have picked that would be great. I need a 170v+ input because if i move to 5 panels i can run 3 on 1 MPPT 2 on the other.

thank you in advance. this is my first post so...

 

[Bobert]

Hello,

My name is Jake and I got sucked into the solar wormhole early last week lol. Ive been none stop trying to read and research items I will need as well a best plan/setup.

After starting to research I performed a 3 day power audit on my Lance 1181 Truck camper.
85-91 and sunny all 3 days
Day 1: 10.6 kWh 7am-7pm 6.4 1 light, a/c set to 71, fridge on propane. was in an out from time to time
Day 2: 13.4 kWh 7am-7pm 9.3 " " fridge on A/C.
Day 3: 10.4 kWh 7am-7pm 6.2 " " back on propane

I have do some math to see if running the A/C for most of the day.

4x 400watt panels ( 5.58 average hours during months id be using) 8928-30% i figured i could pull in 5-6 ish kWh

Im 100% ok with having to run the genny for an hour if necessary so that is part of my plan if needed.

Setup: 48v

2x 40amp WZRELB MPPT 170v PV max input
1x 3000w sungoldpower
160ah 16s with smart daly 200amp BMS (i have to build do to space available, the rack setups would be nice though)
48v-12v buck converter
various pieces (breakers, fuses, etc)

one final test I did (i race motorcycles) I tested my tire warmers since they are digital. I test the 1hr warm up (625watts used) then rest and watched the next 40 mins (410watts) when at the track the warmers would be running 40 mins of each hour from 9-5.

I feel i could make it 2.5 days on my setup plus the 8.2kwh battery. if the gen must run thats fine, battery cap will be added as time goes on as well as i can fit 5 panels (2000watts).

If anyone has any input on the items i have picked that would be great. I need a 170v+ input because if i move to 5 panels i can run 3 on 1 MPPT 2 on the other.

thank you in advance. this is my first post so...

It would be helpful if you could include a little more information like what the specs are on the solar panels you plan to use. If you want to use the fridge on ac you might want to consider upgrading to a compressor fridge as they use much less power and work better otherwise it is cheaper to run the fridge on propane than to run the generator creating a very inefficient 120 volt power converting that to 48 volts dc and then inverting 48 v dc back to 120 v ac to run the fridges little electric heating element. The costs in generator fuel and larger batteries would probably pay for a new fridge quickly.
How much equipment have you already purchased?

 

[Smoked~black16v]

Bobert,
I haven't decided on panels just yet, but I did use a calculator to factor in an extreme case (50v panels at 15°F .37% coefficient) so I knew I could do 3/2 in series setup to each charger module. That's why I'm leaning towards the WZRELB module as it's 170v max. And the size of the unit I can fit 2 easily where I want to put them.

The fridge will definitely be ran off propane until I get a compressor version, the warmers and A/C is what I feel I could run for a 2 day weekend at the track. I don't normally ride in the rain but if I do I won't be using warmers.

I haven't bought anything yet, I wanted to make a post before I did.


Jake

 

[Bobert]

Bobert,
I haven't decided on panels just yet, but I did use a calculator to factor in an extreme case (50v panels at 15°F .37% coefficient) so I knew I could do 3/2 in series setup to each charger module. That's why I'm leaning towards the WZRELB module as it's 170v max. And the size of the unit I can fit 2 easily where I want to put them.

The fridge will definitely be ran off propane until I get a compressor version, the warmers and A/C is what I feel I could run for a 2 day weekend at the track. I don't normally ride in the rain but if I do I won't be using warmers.

I haven't bought anything yet, I wanted to make a post before I did.


Jake

Just check all your options especially if money is a major factor. I ended up using a ail in one solar inverter in my rig it was the only thing that would fit in my space and allow me to expand to my ideal specs with a small amount of money.

At It’s a little tricky on a truck camper but if you install a mini split you can potentially cut your air conditioning wattage in half. Most rooftop units are woefully inefficient. For us the mini split allows us to use the 5k lifepo4 battery bank we have to run the ac. Our old ac used 1400 watts our new unit maxes out at about 1000 watts but generally runs between 5 and 600 watts dropping to 250 watts on a 70 degree night when all we are using it for is to drop the humidity for better sleep.

 

[Smoked~black16v]

Just check all your options especially if money is a major factor. I ended up using a ail in one solar inverter in my rig it was the only thing that would fit in my space and allow me to expand to my ideal specs with a small amount of money.

At It’s a little tricky on a truck camper but if you install a mini split you can potentially cut your air conditioning wattage in half. Most rooftop units are woefully inefficient. For us the mini split allows us to use the 5k lifepo4 battery bank we have to run the ac. Our old ac used 1400 watts our new unit maxes out at about 1000 watts but generally runs between 5 and 600 watts dropping to 250 watts on a 70 degree night when all we are using it for is to drop the humidity for better sleep.

Bobert,
I'd love to do a mini split but there is no place to hang the blower unit or put the condenser unit. I have looked at 12/24 a/c units but for some reason none of them can fit in a standard 14x14 vent hole ? so 1150-1280 watts it is. I'll just need a touch more battery. With the 5 panel setup that should be plenty I'd think. Running the a/c at night wouldn't be necessary unless it was 75+ out. Just run a fan.

 

[Bobert]

Bobert,
I'd love to do a mini split but there is no place to hang the blower unit or put the condenser unit. I have looked at 12/24 a/c units but for some reason none of them can fit in a standard 14x14 vent hole ? so 1150-1280 watts it is. I'll just need a touch more battery. With the 5 panel setup that should be plenty I'd think. Running the a/c at night wouldn't be necessary unless it was 75+ out. Just run a fan.

I know truck campers can be difficult. Most people who use mini splits on them mount the outside unit high on the rear. I thought I couldn’t use a mini split on my travel trailer but I found that the 9000 btu senville has an inside unit that is only 28” wide. It just barely fit ( I have 2 slides and they eliminate all the available wall space) one fringe benefit is that we freed up a place for another vent fan.

 

[Zwy]

Bobert,
I'd love to do a mini split but there is no place to hang the blower unit or put the condenser unit.

For my TC, the condenser mount is already fabricated, it actually is hinged. It hangs on the rear, the hinge pivot is bolted to the jack mount and I made a bracket that fit into the girt where the ladder is attached. High enough to walk under when camper is on the truck. The ladder is still there, I can use it by swinging out the condenser. I can enter the back door with the condenser in, but if stationary for a few days I can swing it out.

As for the evaporator unit, I have an overhead bunk that will be removed. My TC didn't have a microwave factory and I will build a cabinet where the bunk was to house the microwave and the evaporator will be next to it. Winter project this year.

I have looked at 12/24 a/c units but for some reason none of them can fit in a standard 14x14 vent hole ? so 1150-1280 watts it is. I'll just need a touch more battery. With the 5 panel setup that should be plenty I'd think. Running the a/c at night wouldn't be necessary unless it was 75+ out. Just run a fan.

My current setup will run the roof air for about 5 hours off the battery. With an inverter mini split, it will be able to run 24/7 with solar during the day. The inverter mini split is the only way to go, the efficiency can't be beat.

 

[Zwy]

Hello,

My name is Jake and I got sucked into the solar wormhole early last week lol. Ive been none stop trying to read and research items I will need as well a best plan/setup.

After starting to research I performed a 3 day power audit on my Lance 1181 Truck camper.
85-91 and sunny all 3 days
Day 1: 10.6 kWh 7am-7pm 6.4 1 light, a/c set to 71, fridge on propane. was in an out from time to time
Day 2: 13.4 kWh 7am-7pm 9.3 " " fridge on A/C.
Day 3: 10.4 kWh 7am-7pm 6.2 " " back on propane

I have do some math to see if running the A/C for most of the day.

4x 400watt panels ( 5.58 average hours during months id be using) 8928-30% i figured i could pull in 5-6 ish kWh

Im 100% ok with having to run the genny for an hour if necessary so that is part of my plan if needed.

Setup: 48v

2x 40amp WZRELB MPPT 170v PV max input
1x 3000w sungoldpower
160ah 16s with smart daly 200amp BMS (i have to build do to space available, the rack setups would be nice though)
48v-12v buck converter
various pieces (breakers, fuses, etc)

one final test I did (i race motorcycles) I tested my tire warmers since they are digital. I test the 1hr warm up (625watts used) then rest and watched the next 40 mins (410watts) when at the track the warmers would be running 40 mins of each hour from 9-5.

I feel i could make it 2.5 days on my setup plus the 8.2kwh battery. if the gen must run thats fine, battery cap will be added as time goes on as well as i can fit 5 panels (2000watts).

If anyone has any input on the items i have picked that would be great. I need a 170v+ input because if i move to 5 panels i can run 3 on 1 MPPT 2 on the other.

thank you in advance. this is my first post so...

Why 48V?

I can't see more than a 24V system needed in a TC, even a large 1181. If you stick with 48V, the switches and other items need to rated for 48V, most of the items used a 12V or 24V build are only rated to 36V max.

As for a fridge, we quit using the 3 way fridge even though it works fine. I have a Dometic CFX95 in place of the back seat of the truck cab.

 

[BradCagle]

I dunno about that WZRELB mppt. Seen a lot of bugs, and complaints about it when I was looking at it.

I'm using one of these, has 250v on the mppt input. https://signaturesolar.com/growatt-80a-mppt-250v-charge-controller/

It's been running fantastically. Tip: use the "USE" battery mode, don't fool around with the other modes.

 

[Delmar]

The Reliable WZRELB experiences here are love/hate. I own a 48V 2500W for grid-down backup that is back-fed into my breaker panel, and it works perfectly for my needs. Others have experienced failures so would not recommend if you live exclusively off the inverter.

 

[Mattb4]

...

Im 100% ok with having to run the genny for an hour if necessary so that is part of my plan if needed.

...

You will need to run the generator much more than a hour each day. Batteries (chemical device) are a fixed source of power and have certain charging requirements. Often you are limited in how quickly you can recharge them. Partly for longevity and also for safety.

Solar panels do not deliver rated wattage. They also vary the amount they do deliver as the sun rises and sets. That excludes factors like clouds and shade. Converting that sun power to the point a load sees it involves losses at all stages of conversion. Wires, connectors, SCC, Batteries, Inverter, all will rob some of the potential power.

My point is you can not just simply add up your load needs and size your system without allowing for all the factors

 

[Bobert]

Solar panels do not deliver rated wattage. They also vary the amount they do deliver as the sun rises and sets. That excludes factors like clouds and shade. Converting that sun power to the point a load sees it involves losses at all stages of conversion. Wires, connectors, SCC, Batteries, Inverter, all will rob some of the potential power.

For instance I have 3240 watts in solar on my roof today we have clear skies and I have peaked at 2100 watts coming in. My array is mounted flat and gets some sort of shade for all but 3 hours of the day. On a full sun day and only needing to run the ac for 18 hours I don’t need to use the generator but if it is cloudy and or extremely hot so I have to run the ac 24 hours we will need the generator to top off the batteries to make it through the night with ac on. If you take the ac out of the picture we are able to camp in full shade and have all the power we need.

 

[Smoked~black16v]

gentleman i accounted for 30% loss on the panels already... Bobert your just under 70% of your rated wattage. also 90% of the time im at the race track its brigh blue skys. I will also have a tilted array 28* is what ive found on the website that will maximize my hourly average from track season start to finish.


Edit: i did miss the "clear skys today" i guess we will have to see what happens. i cant see tilting really helping that much but the solar places ive called said its like having an extra panel up so... This is just a little hobby project and tinkering with it after first start up is not a problem.

 

[Smoked~black16v]

I dunno about that WZRELB mppt. Seen a lot of bugs, and complaints about it when I was looking at it.

I'm using one of these, has 250v on the mppt input. https://signaturesolar.com/growatt-80a-mppt-250v-charge-controller/

It's been running fantastically. Tip: use the "USE" battery mode, don't fool around with the other modes.

If i went this route my only option is the EG4 so i can run all 5 in series. although i suppose if i go an AIO route... i could hook the genny to a stand alone charger so i could just charge the batts directly. let the AIO control the rest.

 

[Smoked~black16v]

Why 48V?

I can't see more than a 24V system needed in a TC, even a large 1181. If you stick with 48V, the switches and other items need to rated for 48V, most of the items used a 12V or 24V build are only rated to 36V max.

As for a fridge, we quit using the 3 way fridge even though it works fine. I have a Dometic CFX95 in place of the back seat of the truck cab.

i think you may have missed the buck converter... ill have 12v power, 48v is the safest higher voltage and most efficient for me using the A/C is what ive gathered so thats what im planning.

 

[jameshowison]

i think you may have missed the buck converter... ill have 12v power, 48v is the safest higher voltage and most efficient for me using the A/C is what ive gathered so thats what im planning.

Three things to consider:

Low amp fuses for 48v systems are hard to find (or not available). Remember that 48v systems usually run up to 58v actual. Might have to use midi rather than mega fuses. I ended up using Midnite DIN rail breakers, but they are bulkier than fuses and can trip from bouncing.

If you hope to alternator charge 12 to 48 is hard. But 12 to 24 is much easier. Many (all?) your 12v components will run at 24v, so you may not need the step down to 12v.

Lots of components won’t be rated for the 58v the 48v system actually runs. E.g., blue seas shutoff switches.

I’m not sure but are you saying that a 48v system will help your efficiency in running a 120v air con?

 

[Delmar]

...48v is the safest higher voltage...

Be careful and respect 48V. I have the stained underwear to prove my point.

 

[Smoked~black16v]

Three things to consider:

Low amp fuses for 48v systems are hard to find (or not available). Remember that 48v systems usually run up to 58v actual. Might have to use midi rather than mega fuses. I ended up using Midnite DIN rail breakers, but they are bulkier than fuses and can trip from bouncing.

If you hope to alternator charge 12 to 48 is hard. But 12 to 24 is much easier. Many (all?) your 12v components will run at 24v, so you may not need the step down to 12v.

Lots of components won’t be rated for the 58v the 48v system actually runs. E.g., blue seas shutoff switches.

I’m not sure but are you saying that a 48v system will help your efficiency in running a 120v air con?

It is my understanding from the research that I've done that running an AC powered air conditioner 48 volt is the best bet for efficiency.


On the buck converter you're saying that I might only have to step down to 24 volt to run the camper?

Being good at every field is nearly impossible but I do repair CNC machines for a living I am pretty snappy when it comes to doing mechanical setup and a little bit of wiring. But but this is what this post was for if 48 volts is not necessary I'd be more than happy to look at 24 volts. I was looking at the cost savings of wires the potential distance I might have to run wires all of that included I figured 48 was the route to go.

 

[Zwy]

Those savings on wire will quickly be gone with the increased cost of 60V rated components. And if something breaks on a trip, the 36V and lower rated items are much easier to source.

As for the AC powered air conditioner, I have run my roof air off my Growatt 24V 3000W unit, draw is about 51A. Not a really huge load compared to a microwave. The roof AC is about 1200W, with the inverter mini split I figure 600W or less. The key is an appliance that is more energy efficient for both inverter and battery Wh.

 

[Smoked~black16v]

Those savings on wire will quickly be gone with the increased cost of 60V rated components. And if something breaks on a trip, the 36V and lower rated items are much easier to source.

As for the AC powered air conditioner, I have run my roof air off my Growatt 24V 3000W unit, draw is about 51A. Not a really huge load compared to a microwave. The roof AC is about 1200W, with the inverter mini split I figure 600W or less. The key is an appliance that is more energy efficient for both inverter and battery Wh.

I guess the only items that would need to be 60v rated would be everything from the Mppts to the inverter right?(breakers fuses etc).... if the inverter/mppt's take a shit im up shits creek anyways right? so having a back up breakers/fuses items of that nature would be smart to have on hand.