Agreed, a 250A main would be a good match.
Way more complicated and expensive than I can afford to do unfortunately, hence the mylar underneath to help. Plus, weight adds up fast and it's still a hand crank that I have to spin. The panels and aluminum racking is already going to add about 120lb to the roof.
And here I was thinking "200a of 12v is 2400w, that's plenty of overhead for a 2000w max inverter" but yeah, I'll step everything up a notch.
I already have a pair of 150a JBD's in stock, I was planning on using those. My power audit told me that 1Kw would be plenty for my expected needs, but the options for 12v AIO's are extremely limited. I'm set on using an AIO because of space. Pop-up campers, especially these smaller older guys, don't have the luxuries of things like battery compartments or utility spaces in them, only what's under the few bench seats inside. Finding space for the ATS, the AC charger, the inverter, the SCC, all the wires and fuses between those components, plates, pans, bowls, cups, linens, pots, cleaning stuffs, axe, hatchet, cordless chainsaw, spices, lighters, cordless drill for the supports, and so on and so on.... well every inch counts and you can't beat the compactness of an AIO.If it was me, I'd also go with 200A BMS and 200A Fuse on the individual batteries, allowing one to take over the load if the other one cuts out and save me some fuses.
Fortunately the outlets are already wired up with GFCI's so no reason to mess with those.
Gotcha, I'll step those up to 125a on each battery and 250 out to the inverter. Even if I only have 1 battery working, the power audit says 1Kw is plenty for me so in the event a battery has issues I'll still have plenty to run the mini-fridge, lights, water pump, and heater. Pretty much the only reason I'm going with the 2Kw Ionic over the MPP-1012-LV that I have in the shed is because the one time I tested my brother's fridge with the coffee maker going the startup surge caused the MPP to beep at me until the fridge settled down. While that would be fine most of the time, it gives me options for the future.
The box there in the diagram will be where all the batteries come together and is hopefully only a foot or less from the batteries thenselves, so basically the same thing. Everything "south" of that box will be the fatter wire runs.
Positive on one battery then negative on the other battery with cables connecting the batteries in parallel still. This keeps the power distributed equally between them both. Your way works as long as cables are same length, I just worry when you're pushing the limits of the wiring and breakers if everything isn't perfect it'll drain one more than the other then more likely to blow the breakers.
Usually, I take the approach of making the system design as invulnerable to user mistakes/design flaws as possible and utilizing the maximum of the individual components while aiming for equilibrium across the system.
Makes sense. Plus, I'd imagine AIO is a lot less of a hassle to install, and having everything insulated within the box in a tight space is so much nicer.
I thought panels heat up from the sun which is why lots of flexible ones break and we need some sort of air gap to help cool between.
Aaahhh, I thought that was clear in the sketch. Yes, the batteries are in parallel coming in through the now 125a breaker to the positive bus bar. The negatives come in and join up at the shunt, then out the shunt to the chassis. I'll consider jumpers if I have spare cables and lugs handy.
Yup, I'm looking at 200w bifacials, hence the mylar underneath.
My plan is to go fore & aft as a 10ft length is the perfect size for the panel orientation. Having the ability to loosen a couple T nuts and slide the panels in and out makes life easier for mounting and maintenance/replacement. I already have a design for a sloped wall along the front to prevent air getting underneath while driving.
Yes, which is one of the reasons I'm using the normal bifacials, that and the cost of the panels. $650 for 800w of bifacials is WAY cheaper and more durable than 800w of CIGS panels. Between the Z-brackets and 1in Unistrut that's a good 1.5in of air space under there and open on 3 sides.
That's the general plan. So how much track per Z-bracket would you recommend? 6in? 12in?
What I have is about a foot on the front (short side of panel) and a 4 inch section on the back of the long side, and a 1 inch section across from that.
Something else to be aware of.?.that year had roof design problems that were under a recall. I think the fix was support across the width inside near the vent a/c.
I looked into that, looks like my model is in the clear.
