diy solar

diy solar

Potting compound - way to go, thoughts/suggestions?

I've used MG Chemicals silicone for some PCB.

 
Some of this quick setting (add part A to part B stuff) often releases a lot of exothermic heat while curing.
That might be fine for your fiberglass whatever..... But it can cause problems for potting electrical components that contain thermoplastics.

Its very likely not an issue for polyurethane "rubbery type stuff" I really do not know.
But corrosive fumes are not the only potential issue to investigate when choosing a potting material.
That stuff didn’t release a lot of heat like a volume of epoxy or polyester. It was just liquid then snap your finger, rubber. Absolutely no warning for change of state like nothing else
 
I've used MG Chemicals silicone for some PCB.

Well I’m glad that their potting compound is good because the tube stuff I bought from them a few years ago was absolute crap.
IMG_1329.jpeg
 
What I used from them was a tube, to attach aerogel insulation and glob some parts.
I also used a one-part underfill epoxy from another manufacturer.

I make no warranty about suitability for purpose, etc. etc.
 
A lot of the young electchickens I work with have a love affair with silicon
They will glue things on doors with it plug holes ect.
Use it for too many things...
I really hated it on motor boxes.
I knew it was damaging the slip rings and brushes inside and it pissed me off to know end ( still does because this practice has never stopped in my dept ).
It makes more work because it shortens the life.
Not a whole lot of drive lines and amplidynes left so there is not as much for them to screw up anymore.
SO there is not a lot reason for them to listen to me...


This I know works well
I fill switches with it ( magnetic switches proxies to keep the connections water tight )
I'm not real fond of it because if the place is so bad that I need to pot it then I feel its probably a bad place to put anything
Exception being temperature switches.
After I set one I like to do a pipe splice and pot it.
Then the young guys will not mess with the setting.
Its too much trouble to open and work on so they will rip it apart to get to the connections and replace the potted calibrated switch with one thats not calibrated and I get to go down and set things right, pot it and glue it all shut with reentryable again...

Its slightly tacky to the touch as it jells.
It feels like jelly very hard jelly when set.
You can remove it but I point out I just use it to seal up joints and connection in switches and boxes and not electronics I may need to fix ( well I don't fix electronics I replace parts, I'm a parts changer now not fixer )

Urethan:
Honestly I use the same stuff they glue your windshield in.
For the same reasons, if I am going to glue something shut I don't expect I will ever go back in there.
 
HA HA HA..

One of my apprentices made a Boob in a zip lock bag with some left over reentryable compound one time.
It did feel fleshy...
 
Thank you all for the comments and product suggestions. Silicon crossed my mind as its the easiest but I'm not a fan for reason listed above and the abuse these things take, add in salt water dives and over time things will degrade. I like the products suggested and the oil method too.

Yes there will be testing done, obviously. This thing would have to survive a battery (pun) of tests before I would go near it physically. Most cave divers don't dive to 300ft, that's about the limit for even some serious hardcore divers, the average depth at least of the caves in Florida (yes believe it or not Florida is a destination place in the world for cave diving) ranges from anywhere from 30ft to 160 feet. Those who dive know once you start breaking the 130ft mark time is ticking and you are gobbling oxygen, unless you are planned and certified for a staged decompression dive which honestly I haven't seen almost anyone do in Florida caves except for certification purposes.

I had thought about using some of the MG black colored sealant (1 part mix). I forget the part #. I have to do the math on the amp draw, I'm honestly feeling pretty ill right now so I haven't done it. But the specs on the website are as follows:

lights come standard with a 5.2-amp hour li-ion battery pack
~80k lux at 1m (3ft) -1550 lux at 5m (15ft) on high power (using the standard, 5.2-amp hour battery)
Approx. 2.5 hours burn time on high and 5 hours on low (using the standard, 5.2-amp hour battery)

when I look under there battery packs for the lamps they list:
3S1P Lithium Ion battery pack
5.6-AMP
Charging voltage 4.0 A
11.1 Volts
62 Watt hours

Then they have their upgraded pack which is 20ah which they give very little info on its just a longer tube housing essentially:
Approximately 240 Wh hours
800-1000 charging cycles

I know I could blow these specs out of the water (pun again!) with better batteries. They are just stored in a simple hard plastic canister and the battery appears to have to contacts that mate with the lid and then there's a pack of some sort. Nothing is oil filled or anything that I can tell from limited pictures, may I will try youtube to see if anyone has torn one down. I remember when I owned one of these lights (much older model and made by the original company that created them until this company did a hostile takeover of the other company. We would have to remove the packs and plug them in to charge. I wish I still had one. But I do remember flooding the thing in a dive, of course we have triple redundancy in lights per diver and buddy so I wasn't in danger of being in the dark, and I was trained for that situation too. But a dive light is life support no doubt.

When I surfaced it was just full to the brim with water. Nothing happened. No boom, no fizz, nothing. Of course back then I wasn't into electronics so its not like I tore it apart to see how it was built. I just bought a replacement battery and was good to go. Several other divers had the same issue.

I had though of maybe using headway batteries, but the compression concerns me. Curious on battery chemistry types. Clearly the company has gone Li-ion.

Another dumb question I have seen videos of people taking a fully 4.2v charged Li-ion battery (unprotected flat top) and just drop it in to water. Nothing happens. Why? Or do the videos just not give it enough time to finally corrode and then the fireworks happen? The only time I've seen them instantly explode/catch fire is if the person physically damages the battery ripping it open and removing the sleeve. That's not much of a surprise everyone know what lithium does when exposed to water!

Anyways, you guys have given me some ideas and thinking to do. I'll be trying out various chemicals and oils as mentioned here to see. Once the pack is built the first test will be the worst test, drop it down to 300feet and let it sit until the battery runs out. Then reel it up and inspect. If its still in one piece and I am able to charge it safely, then more tests and more tests and more tests :) I'm also stuck on BMSs I normally use high end BMSs but they wont work for this cylinder shape I can only think of the cheap Chinese bms's which scare me. When I'm feeling better I'm going to go pick up some black heavy duty PVC pipe to at least carry out some initial tests. I've got some sink holes around here that are about 60 feet. which is a good start for just checking my ability to provide a watertight compartment. I guess I will likely start with some 21700's. Man the BMS is killing me. I don't want cheap junk in there, but I can't fit a square BMS in a cylinder! Changing the pack design to any other shape we turn off anyone. Cylinder shape have always been used because of the ability to mount it almost anywhere with no interference to the diver. I can't strap a big old square or rectangle to them.

Sounds like this is going to be fun :) to home depot to buy some parts for the cylinder, and once I'm feeling better I'll do the math on the batteries ect.. and pick out some that will mop the floor with what they are providing. And if I let the magic smoke out at least it'll be underwater tied to a cable so no injury to anyone! Why am I adding more projects to the mountain I have!? :)

Cheers
any further comments welcomed!
 
Those who dive know once you start breaking the 130ft mark time is ticking and you are gobbling oxygen,

Why?

I understand if you panic and hyperventilate, you blow through air faster because it is compressed into smaller volume.

But my theory is when compressed there is more O2 in a breath, so it can last longer. I've only taken one dive, a resort dive. We went down 30', so 2x pressure, 1/2 as many breaths in the tank. Instructor came around checking gauges and sent one guy up. I breathed slower than normal and only used a fraction of the tank by end of dive. Of course this was an easy dive, zero exertion.
 
I forgot to mention that I have stayed in contacted with my dive instructor's who own their own shop and I am like family to them. So getting access to testing hydrostatic pressure shouldn't be a problem. Tanks have to be "hydro'd" every 5 years to ensure their integrity. I've also taken some of the cheapest of cheap "camera cases" for those little square digital cameras that were popular back 10 years ago. The cheapo case was "rated for 50 ft max" I took it down multiple times over 140ft and it didnt so much as leak or show signs of weakness, that said we know the laws of physics and if I kept doing that surely eventually it would have cracked. But if a cheapo plastic case can handle that at least a few times, I've got to think the heavy duty black PVC could withstand the pressures no problem. But I'm not in the guessing game, as engineer I am in the prove its safe game! :)
cheers
 
It's not about panic, is the fact that most recreational "advanced" certified divers (which are cut off at 130ft) dive on a single aluminum tank most of the time. So say you start your dive at 30-60 feet for say 10-15 mins even a drift dive, you have eaten up some of your O2, an experienced diver like myself would use barely anything, a new diver might be already surfacing! Just because you are getting 2x the oxygen doesn't mean people are holding their breath to absorb that o2. You're not supposed to hold your breath anyways! You breathe as you would on the surface. Now take someone who goes out and gets there advanced card allowing 130ft diving, if they aren't with someone worth their salt, they can get carried away looking at things, or simply be nervous going that deep for the first time, when really its no different than 30 feet except for the nitrogen you are taking on and O2 you are burning. For example, both my girlfriend at the time had our advanced certs (well I had far more certs than that but not important). We did a wall dive off Belize that starts at 30 feet and has a wall that drops straight down to 6000 feet. Most divers would dip down a bit to explore the side of the wall/reef. Since I had more experience than her and we had grouped with a total of four people, myself (highly advanced diver), another person claiming to be fairly advanced, and one of the divemasters from the charter (presumably very advanced!) and my girlfriend (who was still fairly new but was not one to panic or anything like that under unexpected conditions. We planned the dive on land, myself and the other heavily advanced diver where going to stay with them through the 30ft section of the reef. We told them once we reached the wall that we were going to dump all the air out of BC's and "jump" of the wall and free fall to about 150ft. The divemaster and my girlfriend were going to stay at around 60 feet on the wall where we would meet up with them after our free fall.

The free fall was absolutely amazing, it was like flying. After reaching our planned depth we immediately followed our dive plan and rose slow back up to 60feet. The dive master and my girlfriend were nowhere to be found. I didn't panic, I did what I was trained for as a certified rescue diver and my buddy turned out to really be a good advanced diver which I could tell by his gear, we were the only two not using rented gear we brought our dive gear from the US via cruse (for me) and by flight (for him) and my buddy and I began to look for them. A few minutes later we found them at 120ft!!! I immediately started banging on my tank with a metal clip to get their attention. once they saw me I signed to them to get the hell up NOW. they did. My girlfriend was minutes from entering decompression and the divemaster had nothing to say. Now BOTH my girlfriend and the dive master were at fault and I suppose me too for putting trust in a person who does this everyday for a living. We finished the dive safely. Upon surfacing I checked her gauge, she had enough air to do all her safety stop but it left her at a level of o2 that would have scared me if my tanks read that at ANY depth. Thats her fault no doubt for failing to monitor her life support. I ripped the divemaster a new one on the boat, he broke our dive plan, he took my girlfriend past our planned depths and didn't even seem to acknowledge it as a big deal. I was furious. Once we can back on shore I went to the shop and had a long conversation with the manger, who was skeptical, once I showed him the dive computer logs his eyes got a bit wide. He fired the guy on the spot. I had a more civil conversation with my girlfriend of why she allowed this to happen. After that I was always by her side for dives. Long long story but the moral is most recreational divers are not advanced divers, even if they carry the card. When I surface from dives usually I am the last one or two to surface with the dive guide, everyone else has run out of air, well not run out but reached the point to surface, and this is florida reef dives that max out usually at 50-70 feet. So at 130ft if you are not ready for it you can quickly put yourself in a jam, think about how much air you are sucking in at that depth, you can almost watch your air gagues going down every few breaths and if you are susceptible to narcosis easily, that is a recipe for bad bad things. Anywho totally off topic! Back to batteries! :)

Cheers
 
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Yup, other people are often fast and loose with the things we know well and are very careful about.
And a beginner will often defer to the expert (like those rookie officers first day on the street being trained by Chauvin.)

Then I nearly electrocuted myself a year ago, had gotten complacent. Always probe for voltages, and connect a separate safety ground to chassis.

I'm not a diver, but had some awareness from reading and took one resort dive, and breathing very slow worked. Other than that I've just snorkeled off dive boats (which is exhausting).
I have read that using dive computers, maybe some devices with a membrane to simulate absorption? divers have suffered bends injuries because using charts they always knew there was margin and they were accustomed to going a bit over without trouble. Then they pushed it too far thinking the computers used same values.

Only a few people really understand the details. Like the first astronauts, one recovered from an equipment failure orbiting the earth because he knew how everything worked. Someone driving who has overhauled engine and drive train knows what goes one during shifting.

Good thing you were able to get your girlfriend up in time.
 
Thank you all for the comments and product suggestions. Silicon crossed my mind as its the easiest but I'm not a fan for reason listed above and the abuse these things take, add in salt water dives and over time things will degrade. I like the products suggested and the oil method too.

Yes there will be testing done, obviously. This thing would have to survive a battery (pun) of tests before I would go near it physically. Most cave divers don't dive to 300ft, that's about the limit for even some serious hardcore divers, the average depth at least of the caves in Florida (yes believe it or not Florida is a destination place in the world for cave diving) ranges from anywhere from 30ft to 160 feet. Those who dive know once you start breaking the 130ft mark time is ticking and you are gobbling oxygen, unless you are planned and certified for a staged decompression dive which honestly I haven't seen almost anyone do in Florida caves except for certification purposes.

I had thought about using some of the MG black colored sealant (1 part mix). I forget the part #. I have to do the math on the amp draw, I'm honestly feeling pretty ill right now so I haven't done it. But the specs on the website are as follows:

lights come standard with a 5.2-amp hour li-ion battery pack
~80k lux at 1m (3ft) -1550 lux at 5m (15ft) on high power (using the standard, 5.2-amp hour battery)
Approx. 2.5 hours burn time on high and 5 hours on low (using the standard, 5.2-amp hour battery)

when I look under there battery packs for the lamps they list:
3S1P Lithium Ion battery pack
5.6-AMP
Charging voltage 4.0 A
11.1 Volts
62 Watt hours

Then they have their upgraded pack which is 20ah which they give very little info on its just a longer tube housing essentially:
Approximately 240 Wh hours
800-1000 charging cycles

I know I could blow these specs out of the water (pun again!) with better batteries. They are just stored in a simple hard plastic canister and the battery appears to have to contacts that mate with the lid and then there's a pack of some sort. Nothing is oil filled or anything that I can tell from limited pictures, may I will try youtube to see if anyone has torn one down. I remember when I owned one of these lights (much older model and made by the original company that created them until this company did a hostile takeover of the other company. We would have to remove the packs and plug them in to charge. I wish I still had one. But I do remember flooding the thing in a dive, of course we have triple redundancy in lights per diver and buddy so I wasn't in danger of being in the dark, and I was trained for that situation too. But a dive light is life support no doubt.

When I surfaced it was just full to the brim with water. Nothing happened. No boom, no fizz, nothing. Of course back then I wasn't into electronics so its not like I tore it apart to see how it was built. I just bought a replacement battery and was good to go. Several other divers had the same issue.

I had though of maybe using headway batteries, but the compression concerns me. Curious on battery chemistry types. Clearly the company has gone Li-ion.

Another dumb question I have seen videos of people taking a fully 4.2v charged Li-ion battery (unprotected flat top) and just drop it in to water. Nothing happens. Why? Or do the videos just not give it enough time to finally corrode and then the fireworks happen? The only time I've seen them instantly explode/catch fire is if the person physically damages the battery ripping it open and removing the sleeve. That's not much of a surprise everyone know what lithium does when exposed to water!

Anyways, you guys have given me some ideas and thinking to do. I'll be trying out various chemicals and oils as mentioned here to see. Once the pack is built the first test will be the worst test, drop it down to 300feet and let it sit until the battery runs out. Then reel it up and inspect. If its still in one piece and I am able to charge it safely, then more tests and more tests and more tests :) I'm also stuck on BMSs I normally use high end BMSs but they wont work for this cylinder shape I can only think of the cheap Chinese bms's which scare me. When I'm feeling better I'm going to go pick up some black heavy duty PVC pipe to at least carry out some initial tests. I've got some sink holes around here that are about 60 feet. which is a good start for just checking my ability to provide a watertight compartment. I guess I will likely start with some 21700's. Man the BMS is killing me. I don't want cheap junk in there, but I can't fit a square BMS in a cylinder! Changing the pack design to any other shape we turn off anyone. Cylinder shape have always been used because of the ability to mount it almost anywhere with no interference to the diver. I can't strap a big old square or rectangle to them.

Sounds like this is going to be fun :) to home depot to buy some parts for the cylinder, and once I'm feeling better I'll do the math on the batteries ect.. and pick out some that will mop the floor with what they are providing. And if I let the magic smoke out at least it'll be underwater tied to a cable so no injury to anyone! Why am I adding more projects to the mountain I have!? :)

Cheers
any further comments welcomed!
Ahhhh soooo! Now if makes sense what you are up to with countering water intrusion. I’m from the time of film cameras that you had to be sooo careful when you put it together, cleaning channel, o ring, silicone lube. It was like an operating theatre in a hotel bathroom 😜. Just one tiny hair and you had a flood. I would think that someone already makes a depth rated high output by now or they are insanely expensive. Just keep in mind that if you goop/jell or seal it up, you will not be able to take it as luggage on a flight 😂 dang that would look suspicious. I miss the days of pre 9-11.
I’ve found when deep diving that the most dangerous thing is that other guy that might freak out or has poor fin control and kicks up silt or gets narked stupid. One time that alarms started going off all around in the group, one guy freaked, bolted for the exit. I was afraid the he was going to go straight up non stop, probably holding his breath too. I caught him, made eye contact (big as saucers) and then looked at his dive computer and gave him the ok sign with calm down. The guy was head to get bent and/or embolismed. You be extra careful with that deep s**t ya hear!
 
It's not about panic, is the fact that most recreational "advanced" certified divers (which are cut off at 130ft) dive on a single aluminum tank most of the time. So say you start your dive at 30-60 feet for say 10-15 mins even a drift dive, you have eaten up some of your O2, an experienced diver like myself would use barely anything, a new diver might be already surfacing! Just because you are getting 2x the oxygen doesn't mean people are holding their breath to absorb that o2. You're not supposed to hold your breath anyways! You breathe as you would on the surface. Now take someone who goes out and gets there advanced card allowing 130ft diving, if they aren't with someone worth their salt, they can get carried away looking at things, or simply be nervous going that deep for the first time, when really its no different than 30 feet except for the nitrogen you are taking on and O2 you are burning. For example, both my girlfriend at the time had our advanced certs (well I had far more certs than that but not important). We did a wall dive off Belize that starts at 30 feet and has a wall that drops straight down to 6000 feet. Most divers would dip down a bit to explore the side of the wall/reef. Since I had more experience than her and we had grouped with a total of four people, myself (highly advanced diver), another person claiming to be fairly advanced, and one of the divemasters from the charter (presumably very advanced!) and my girlfriend (who was still fairly new but was not one to panic or anything like that under unexpected conditions. We planned the dive on land, myself and the other heavily advanced diver where going to stay with them through the 30ft section of the reef. We told them once we reached the wall that we were going to dump all the air out of BC's and "jump" of the wall and free fall to about 150ft. The divemaster and my girlfriend were going to stay at around 60 feet on the wall where we would meet up with them after our free fall.

The free fall was absolutely amazing, it was like flying. After reaching our planned depth we immediately followed our dive plan and rose slow back up to 60feet. The dive master and my girlfriend were nowhere to be found. I didn't panic, I did what I was trained for as a certified rescue diver and my buddy turned out to really be a good advanced diver which I could tell by his gear, we were the only two not using rented gear we brought our dive gear from the US via cruse (for me) and by flight (for him) and my buddy and I began to look for them. A few minutes later we found them at 120ft!!! I immediately started banging on my tank with a metal clip to get their attention. once they saw me I signed to them to get the hell up NOW. they did. My girlfriend was minutes from entering decompression and the divemaster had nothing to say. Now BOTH my girlfriend and the dive master were at fault and I suppose me too for putting trust in a person who does this everyday for a living. We finished the dive safely. Upon surfacing I checked her gauge, she had enough air to do all her safety stop but it left her at a level of o2 that would have scared me if my tanks read that at ANY depth. Thats her fault no doubt for failing to monitor her life support. I ripped the divemaster a new one on the boat, he broke our dive plan, he took my girlfriend past our planned depths and didn't even seem to acknowledge it as a big deal. I was furious. Once we can back on shore I went to the shop and had a long conversation with the manger, who was skeptical, once I showed him the dive computer logs his eyes got a bit wide. He fired the guy on the spot. I had a more civil conversation with my girlfriend of why she allowed this to happen. After that I was always by her side for dives. Long long story but the moral is most recreational divers are not advanced divers, even if they carry the card. When I surface from dives usually I am the last one or two to surface with the dive guide, everyone else has run out of air, well not run out but reached the point to surface, and this is florida reef dives that max out usually at 50-70 feet. So at 130ft if you are not ready for it you can quickly put yourself in a jam, think about how much air you are sucking in at that depth, you can almost watch your air gagues going down every few breaths and if you are susceptible to narcosis easily, that is a recipe for bad bad things. Anywho totally off topic! Back to batteries! :)

Cheers
Ditto on your girlfriend being all right
 
Probably totally impractical, but it should be possible to fit a very small gas bottle and regulator referenced to outside water pressure.

That could theoretically keep the inside pressure just slightly above outside pressure by some small amount, regardless of depth ?
It should be o/k on the way down, and it would need to vent on the way up.

You can get those small pressure bottles of CO2 used in soda siphons, and a mini regulator should I expect be an off the shelf item.
https://www.kegworks.com/glass-soda...rter-kit-1-liter-soda-siphon-40-co2-chargers/

A low pressure blow off vent valve (inside >outside pressure) should be a pretty standard item as well.
If that was located at the bottom it should expel any water that did get in.
Probably just one more thing to go wrong.
 
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Thank you all for the comments and product suggestions. Silicon crossed my mind as its the easiest but I'm not a fan for reason listed above and the abuse these things take, add in salt water dives and over time things will degrade. I like the products suggested and the oil method too.

Yes there will be testing done, obviously. This thing would have to survive a battery (pun) of tests before I would go near it physically. Most cave divers don't dive to 300ft, that's about the limit for even some serious hardcore divers, the average depth at least of the caves in Florida (yes believe it or not Florida is a destination place in the world for cave diving) ranges from anywhere from 30ft to 160 feet. Those who dive know once you start breaking the 130ft mark time is ticking and you are gobbling oxygen, unless you are planned and certified for a staged decompression dive which honestly I haven't seen almost anyone do in Florida caves except for certification purposes.

I had thought about using some of the MG black colored sealant (1 part mix). I forget the part #. I have to do the math on the amp draw, I'm honestly feeling pretty ill right now so I haven't done it. But the specs on the website are as follows:

lights come standard with a 5.2-amp hour li-ion battery pack
~80k lux at 1m (3ft) -1550 lux at 5m (15ft) on high power (using the standard, 5.2-amp hour battery)
Approx. 2.5 hours burn time on high and 5 hours on low (using the standard, 5.2-amp hour battery)

when I look under there battery packs for the lamps they list:
3S1P Lithium Ion battery pack
5.6-AMP
Charging voltage 4.0 A
11.1 Volts
62 Watt hours

Then they have their upgraded pack which is 20ah which they give very little info on its just a longer tube housing essentially:
Approximately 240 Wh hours
800-1000 charging cycles

I know I could blow these specs out of the water (pun again!) with better batteries. They are just stored in a simple hard plastic canister and the battery appears to have to contacts that mate with the lid and then there's a pack of some sort. Nothing is oil filled or anything that I can tell from limited pictures, may I will try youtube to see if anyone has torn one down. I remember when I owned one of these lights (much older model and made by the original company that created them until this company did a hostile takeover of the other company. We would have to remove the packs and plug them in to charge. I wish I still had one. But I do remember flooding the thing in a dive, of course we have triple redundancy in lights per diver and buddy so I wasn't in danger of being in the dark, and I was trained for that situation too. But a dive light is life support no doubt.

When I surfaced it was just full to the brim with water. Nothing happened. No boom, no fizz, nothing. Of course back then I wasn't into electronics so its not like I tore it apart to see how it was built. I just bought a replacement battery and was good to go. Several other divers had the same issue.

I had though of maybe using headway batteries, but the compression concerns me. Curious on battery chemistry types. Clearly the company has gone Li-ion.

Another dumb question I have seen videos of people taking a fully 4.2v charged Li-ion battery (unprotected flat top) and just drop it in to water. Nothing happens. Why? Or do the videos just not give it enough time to finally corrode and then the fireworks happen? The only time I've seen them instantly explode/catch fire is if the person physically damages the battery ripping it open and removing the sleeve. That's not much of a surprise everyone know what lithium does when exposed to water!

Anyways, you guys have given me some ideas and thinking to do. I'll be trying out various chemicals and oils as mentioned here to see. Once the pack is built the first test will be the worst test, drop it down to 300feet and let it sit until the battery runs out. Then reel it up and inspect. If its still in one piece and I am able to charge it safely, then more tests and more tests and more tests :) I'm also stuck on BMSs I normally use high end BMSs but they wont work for this cylinder shape I can only think of the cheap Chinese bms's which scare me. When I'm feeling better I'm going to go pick up some black heavy duty PVC pipe to at least carry out some initial tests. I've got some sink holes around here that are about 60 feet. which is a good start for just checking my ability to provide a watertight compartment. I guess I will likely start with some 21700's. Man the BMS is killing me. I don't want cheap junk in there, but I can't fit a square BMS in a cylinder! Changing the pack design to any other shape we turn off anyone. Cylinder shape have always been used because of the ability to mount it almost anywhere with no interference to the diver. I can't strap a big old square or rectangle to them.

Sounds like this is going to be fun :) to home depot to buy some parts for the cylinder, and once I'm feeling better I'll do the math on the batteries ect.. and pick out some that will mop the floor with what they are providing. And if I let the magic smoke out at least it'll be underwater tied to a cable so no injury to anyone! Why am I adding more projects to the mountain I have!? :)

Cheers
any further comments welcomed!
Not sure on your application, but a BMS is not "always" necessary to balance the cells. It is really only an issue once the cells age a bit, the individual cell voltage spread might become an issue, assume you never totally discharge them at the first place. So if your application is short term only, maybe you dont need a BMS?
 
Probably totally impractical, but it should be possible to fit a very small gas bottle and regulator referenced to outside water pressure.

That could theoretically keep the inside pressure just slightly above outside pressure by some small amount, regardless of depth ?
It should be o/k on the way down, and it would need to vent on the way up.

You can get those small pressure bottles of CO2 used in soda siphons, and a mini regulator should I expect be an off the shelf item.
https://www.kegworks.com/glass-soda...rter-kit-1-liter-soda-siphon-40-co2-chargers/

A low pressure blow off vent valve (inside >outside pressure) should be a pretty standard item as well.
If that was located at the bottom it should expel any water that did get in.
Probably just one more thing to go wrong.
Huh, what a novel idea. Two ways to do it. fluids don’t compress or fight pressure with pressure. I did some under water machinery that had to be pressurized based on how deep it was going to be used at. It wasn’t going very deep because it was for a reactor pool. It had a rotating seal.
 
Huh, what a novel idea. Two ways to do it. fluids don’t compress or fight pressure with pressure. I did some under water machinery that had to be pressurized based on how deep it was going to be used at. It wasn’t going very deep because it was for a reactor pool. It had a rotating seal.
Ideas can be interesting things.
Even something impractical and crazy may trigger someone else into thinking along quite new and different lines.
Group discussions among people with different backgrounds and experience can be very productive.

Agree, an incompressible fluid, or fight pressure with pressure, are probably the two most fruitful lines of experimentation.
The oil idea is probably the simplest and potentially most reliable (if it works).
 
If the three cells are charged in parallel, and discharged in series, the cells should pretty much balance during charging.

Thinking about it, you could just wire the three cells directly to a six pin socket.
The lamp then has appropriate pins in the plug bridged for series connection.
The charger plug has different pins bridged for parallel charging.
That would also allow testing or measuring individual battery voltages without opening up the enclosure.

For safety critical systems, absolute simplicity has rather a lot going for it.
 
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