Questions about fuses for inverter and converter

[John Frum]

https://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/T-30-T-57R-Manual.pdf

Have you found the other input leg?
Does it have an inlet?

 

[time2roll]

That makes no sense.
One of them should be normally closed and the other should be normally open.
I am having a blonde day though.

Generator would be open, shore is closed. Power on the generator input triggers the relay.

 

[John Frum]

Generator would be open, shore is closed. Power on the generator input triggers the relay.

So if you bridge neutral and ground at the panel and find the shore power inlet there should be continuity between neutral and ground.
Don't forget to remove the bond after the test.

 

[John Frum]

My last question for now is, supposing that this inlet is all wired up correctly with the ATS, can I install a common 30 amp RV receptacle (Nema TT-30R) into that inlet box, and then fashion a 30 amp cable to the inverter and have that plugged into the inlet receptacle? Would that work?

Here's what that kind of receptacle looks like:

I suggest you hardwire the inverter.

 

[Whinny]

And if you get a Xantrex or Samlex it will have a bonded neutral, Smoothjoey will like that!

 

[Terrapin]

You have not understood.
The scenario I was concerned is not about a transfer switch.
Its about a power loop between your inverter and your converter.
Your converter will end up drawing its full rated power plus overhead from the inverter.
that is ~75 amps.
The inverter will try to draw that power from your converter and your battery.
You will drain your battery to low voltage disconnect in <4 hours.
While you are draining the battery you will only have 45 amps of 130 free.
Its likely that you will trip the bms on over-current in this case.
Tripping a bms over-current will dramatically decrease its lifespan.
Think of your bms as a reserve parachute.
Those are the worst scenarios that comes to mind on .5 cups of coffee.

What no grounding quaagmire?
OP be aware of tis stuff too. https://diysolarforum.com/resources/grounding-made-simpler-part-4-mobile-systems.159/

 

[John Frum]

What no grounding quaagmire?
OP be aware of tis stuff too. https://diysolarforum.com/resources/grounding-made-simpler-part-4-mobile-systems.159/

We have already addressed that in this thread.

 

[Oranjoose]

So if you bridge neutral and ground at the panel and find the shore power inlet there should be continuity between neutral and ground.
Don't forget to remove the bond after the test.

I did check continuity between neutral and ground on the shore cable (the shore inlet) back when you last recommended jumping the neutral and ground busbars. I did indeed measure resistance between neutral and ground on the shore cable when the busbars were jumped.

Does that confirm anything to you based on what we now know about the existence of an ATS?

 

[John Frum]

I did check continuity between neutral and ground on the shore cable (the shore inlet) back when you last recommended jumping the neutral and ground busbars. I did indeed measure resistance between neutral and ground on the shore cable when the busbars were jumped.

Does that confirm anything to you based on what we now know about the existence of an ATS?

It suggests that the shore power side is the normally closed side of the ats.
From the manual the generator side has a 30 second delay.
As @Whinny mentioned switch the wiring so that the inverter is hard wired to the normally closed side and the shore power goes to the side with the 30 second delay.
If you are going to have a generator you can plug it into the shore power inlet.
If all goes well you won't have to set the clock on the microwave when you switch to shore power and back.

 

[NMNeil]

You can use the fuse holder terminal to combine wire connections.
Typical 55 amp WFCO would come with #6 wire to the battery.

Bag of these in the right size

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Crimper, then use shrink tubing over it.
You can or course add solder but that may be overkill.