diy solar

diy solar

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GGameBoy

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Feb 22, 2021
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Anything blaring in ur face that’s a safety hazard? This is the electrical set up that the 24 volt battery will rest underneath. wire is 4 gauge, 10 gauge I think the blue cables for the ats is 16 gauge, and I used 2 gauge battery cable from Walmart that will attach this to the battery
 

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Last edited:
Where to start...
Your color code needs work, you might understand it, if someone has to they'll be irritated... Red is hot... You have red going to the negative bus bar and black going to the positive. At least wrap each end with the correct colored tape.
Looks like you have 2 different wire gauges for the + and - from the scc to the solar? What's the purpose of the cheap fuse / breaker on the solar +?
Ever hear of a junction box? The extension cords and wire nut drive my nuts but I don't think it's a safety hazard.

It's a start, you've made it this far. Why not do it correctly? E for effort.
 
Shrink-wrapping of lugs seems very very intermittent. This is leaving a lot of metal showing increasing the possibility of something shorting

What fuses have you got between the battery and the inverter protecting those cables?
 
This is an audio breaker and these are notorious for getting hot and shutting off early. Get yourself quality Busman breakers for a few bucks more.
Screen Shot 2022-12-13 at 3.16.18 PM.png
 
Shrink-wrapping of lugs seems very very intermittent. This is leaving a lot of metal showing increasing the possibility of something shorting

What fuses have you got between the battery and the inverter protecting those cables?
Ok I will get more shrink wrap.

I use a 150 amp main breaker on the battery positive like the 50 amp one pictured coming from the battery positive from the solar charge controller. Annnnd that made me think i need a breaker/fuse to protect the 10 gauge grounding wires that connect to the negative bus bar to the solar charge controller and inverter?
 
Where to start...
Your color code needs work, you might understand it, if someone has to they'll be irritated... Red is hot... You have red going to the negative bus bar and black going to the positive. At least wrap each end with the correct colored tape.
Looks like you have 2 different wire gauges for the + and - from the scc to the solar? What's the purpose of the cheap fuse / breaker on the solar +?
Ever hear of a junction box? The extension cords and wire nut drive my nuts but I don't think it's a safety hazard.

It's a start, you've made it this far. Why not do it correctly? E for effort.
Ok I will get the appropriate colored heat shrink. I only had black and it ran out midway. ill order more.

To my understanding the solar charge controller solar cables are both 10 guage. I used the standard outdoor mc4 cables to attach to the solar charge controller but that stuff does not bend easy and I needed to make that sharp bend, thus I used other pure copper stranded 10 gauge cable on the positive side instead to the 50 amp breaker.

Is that appropriate ?

thank you for your feedback.
 
Does the inverter have built-in fuses on it? I looked at stock photos of that model and don't see any, otherwise it would be connected to the battery without fuse/breaker protection.
 
Does the inverter have built-in fuses on it? I looked at stock photos of that model and don't see any, otherwise it would be connected to the battery without fuse/breaker protection.
I dont know. I will assume it does not. I will add one. 2000 watts / 24 volt battery is about 83 amps. So a 100 amp breaker? I do have a 150 amp breaker on the positive terminal of the battery. Does that change anything?
 
I dont know. I will assume it does not. I will add one. 2000 watts / 24 volt battery is about 83 amps. So a 100 amp breaker? I do have a 150 amp breaker on the positive terminal of the battery. Does that change anything?

As a rule of thumb, breaker / fuse is always sized to protect the wire from meltdown (and follow 80% rule, breaker is sized 20% smaller than max ampacity rating of your cable). Wire gauge is selected based on max current draw (also factor in surge into cable size / breaker so it doesn't blow / trip prematurely anytime a big motor load is turned on.

I can't see where your 150a breaker is wired in, does it go between inverter and your battery?
 
I dont know. I will assume it does not. I will add one. 2000 watts / 24 volt battery is about 83 amps. So a 100 amp breaker? I do have a 150 amp breaker on the positive terminal of the battery. Does that change anything?
I'd recommend ditching the breakers and using good fuses. Those breakers have a terrible history of not stopping current when needed

Class T is the best fuse to put on a powerful LifePo4 battery, second best is a MRBF terminal fuse

Then use a decent quality battery disconnect switch and between the battery fuse and the busbar plus a double pole solar disconnect. This allows you, after any maintenance, to connect the battery to the charger first so it can see the batteries voltage then connect the solar
 
As a rule of thumb, breaker / fuse is always sized to protect the wire from meltdown (and follow 80% rule, breaker is sized 20% smaller than max ampacity rating of your cable). Wire gauge is selected based on max current draw (also factor in surge into cable size / breaker so it doesn't blow / trip prematurely anytime a big motor load is turned on.

I can't see where your 150a breaker is wired in, does it go between inverter and your battery?
ok

my 150 amp breaker is on the battery. I have my battery, wired to a battery shut off, to my 150 amp breaker, then to my terminals that the bus bars connect to.
 
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