Best option for you is to hit up your local car stereo shop that has a Direct Tech account with Directed where they can print out the wire locations/colors for your exact vehicle.
I can read a wiring diagram but I'm too old for the crawling around holding a penlight in my teeth.@smoothJoey I agree, if you're not familiar with ignition systems/vehicle electronics paying a legit shop or person to do it might be best. And yea, I put a fuse on there as well, just in case. 3 amp I think. Also, I trimmed the insolation of the wire back a bit and soldered it, did not cut the vehicle wire.
I can read a wiring diagram but I'm too old for the crawling around holding a penlight in my teeth.
If I was going to do that it would have to be a much bigger prize.
I really want to use this charger for my LFP bank keeping lead acid for the starter battery to secure the alternator. But I don't want to charge the LFP batteries to more than 13.8 V and stop charging when they reach that level. I don't want any float charging for the LFP's.
Can I do that with this charger?
That part i find confusing.Compact with a sturdy design, it was built tough for all conditions.
will go for the trial and error approach....hi guys looking for advice on connecting dcdc50.
I am looking to install this to my ford transit van which has factory fitted dual 95 amp batteries under drivers seat { uk version } known as starter battery and aux battery. there is a battery isolator which cuts out all power if aux battery voltage drops conserving starter battery drain. all is working fine as this has tripped a few times if I have left van doors open with interior lights on and engine switched off. I just press reset switch to get electrics back on again. I wish to connect dcdc50 with two 110 amp leisure batteries for camper conversion.
which battery should i take the live input from.
Thanks in advance.
dave.
I would connect to the starter battery.will go for the trial and error approach....
unfortunately your story confirms that I'm not that strange as I never rely on the insulation capabilities - especially as the manual states that the DCDC "will charge the starter battery if there is surplus solar power". Good old VSR or Ignition relay is what I use...I've been using my Renogy DCDC MPPT 50A controller successfully in my rig setup for six months now with 4x 100ah LiPo4 batteries and a lead acid starter battery with 400watts of solar.
I recently upgraded to an electric water heater and wanted to experiment what would happen if I drained my lithium batteries to ensure my starter battery was actually isolated so I wouldn't be stranded anywhere.... Two days later lithium batteries drain to 12.5v and I go to start my rig to charge with alternator and the starter battery is dead! (11 volts!)
How is this possible with battery isolating I asked?
I've double checked all my wiring, and ensured it is hooked up correctly (six months no problem).
Called Renogy and they said if you drain your lithium batteries far enough your starter battery will try and charge your Lithium batteries WHAT??!? This completely negates the entire purpose of having battery isolation in my opinion!
I've run this experiment several more times with the same result; when my lithium batteries drop below 12.6 my starter battery is completely dead.
This doesn't seem right, can I install another isolator between my starter battery and the DCDC MPPT controller in order to avoid this unnecessary draining? Hopefully the starter battery still gets a top off from solar when voltage is over 13.2.
Has anyone else had this issue?
You won't see 50A from a 350w panel, also if you aren't driving then why would you need to shut off the alternator inputs?Has anyone tried using a larger solar panel around 38-41 Open Circuit Voltage with the DCC50?
I'm looking at some ~350W ones which are way over voltage for the 25V max specified but wondering if I could put a cheap mttp in between to lower it to 24V. Would that work and would it be worth it? The reason wouldn't just connect that other mttp to the batteries is that they are lithiums so I need the low temp shutoff that the DCC50 provides. I may also just get the Victron 100/30 which has that but is a lot of extra money for a very small difference, or just accept the limitation and get a 200W panel.
Unfortunately I only really have space on my van roof for a single panel and this can be a big 350W one or a 200W one.. Weirdly the 350W ones are way cheaper so you see my dilemma!
Also was considering putting either manual shutoffs or some kind of relay system to switch between solar and alternator inputs so I can get full 50a from the solar when not driving, but guessing the 25V limit would still apply?
This is my first build so pretty noob!
Ah very good point on not needing to shut off the alternator input! Yea I'd be expecting ~30a max from the solar I guess. Starting to think I may just use it as a 50a b2b and hook up a separate mttp.You won't see 50A from a 350w panel, also if you aren't driving then why would you need to shut off the alternator inputs?
It's probably worth it to be able to use a 350w panel.Ah very good point on not needing to shut off the alternator input! Yea I'd be expecting ~30a max from the solar I guess. Starting to think I may just use it as a 50a b2b and hook up a separate mttp.