=> I know...
There are two potential problems:
1) Any transient that the controller may produce that can damage the AC charger or even the Inverter. This can happen even w/ the inverter and the AC charger off but still connected to the battery. Worst if the BMS disconnects the bat. I want to measure the voltage w/ the circuit below.
2) Overcharging by combining the AC charger w/ the solar controller. No because the total current is too high but because the Rover Li continues charging even though the battery is full.
View attachment 121699
=>Still researching this. A lot of different values and recommendations. I'm lost here.
The Renogy DC Home only allows setting a few values. The previous Renogy BT app does not work w/ my Samsung Galaxy.
I'm pending to test using other devices.
There is a Solar App that appears to work but closes by itself when saving the custom values.
=>I'm editing my post to add that I was able to install the Renogy BT app on an older phone.
But, I tested and I think the Rover forgot the settings after 12 hours disconnected. Need to repeat the test to make sure.
Take a look at this link:
https://www.solacity.com/how-to-keep-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-happy/
=>Why?
I was even considering using the panels (maybe another two) instead of the AC to feed the AC charger. The charge can work from 100 to 220V
=>Yes, I Understand this.
I'm just wondering why Renogy is also recommending the series configuration. They even include a 10A fuse to be used with the series. I bought their 400W premium kit.
View attachment 121717
=> Below is a link to the inverter. I have used similar devices in the past. They are cheap, efficient and very reliable. I will use the 1000W. My load will never go over 400-600W. It also works ok w/ 15V battery and no load consumption when off.
Another thing that I don't understand is why the Rover Li Load Control is only for 20A. Using 12V=>240W... Practically non-useful for anything. Probably because they don't want to expend in low voltage high current relay.
There are two potential problems:
1) Any transient that the controller may produce that can damage the AC charger or even the Inverter. This can happen even w/ the inverter and the AC charger off but still connected to the battery. Worst if the BMS disconnects the bat. I want to measure the voltage w/ the circuit below.
The Rover 40 should not cause any problems with transient.
BMS will not disconnect with Rover 40 setup properly although need to charge battery fully first to 14.6 volts first with Ampere Time Charger if possible and every once in a while charge to 14.6 volts with same charger to keep Lifepo4 cells in battery top balanced.
I measure voltage with a voltmeter.
2) Overcharging by combining the AC charger w/ the solar controller. No because the total current is too high but because the Rover Li continues charging even though the battery is full.
Problem 2) can be eliminated by ensuring the Rover 40 is programmed correctly as described here.
Thanks for the info, I get no heat from the 2 awg wire so that's good for me. Just ordered a 40a circuit breaker to go between the charge controller and batteries plus the Blue Sea 5191 terminal block and 200a fuse today. The 8 guage is less than 2 feet and I did find a little heat when the...
diysolarforum.com
I was even considering using the panels (maybe another two) instead of the AC to feed the AC charger. The charge can work from 100 to 220V
Solar Panels cannot be used to power the AC charger, because the panels only produce DC.
One possibility would be to use an Inverter/Charger that has an Automatic Transfer Switch. It would replace the Ampere Time charger & inverter and can be programmed to switch to battery when power is lost. See link and attached manual.
1500 watt inverter charger. 12V dc to 110V 120V Pure Sine .50A battery charger, 15 watt idle. Hard Wire Terminal Block. Optional GFCI Outlet.
www.sigineer.com
I'm just wondering why Renogy is also recommending the series configuration. They even include a 10A fuse to be used with the series. I bought their 400W premium kit.
Yes, but the parallel connection that is displayed is the only safe way to install. You will need to get a 30 amp ANL fuse for the wiring the panels Positive connection to the Rover 40.
=>I'm editing my post to add that I was able to install the Renogy BT app on an older phone.
But, I tested and I think the Rover forgot the settings after 12 hours disconnected. Need to repeat the test to make sure.
I am glad the app works. My Rover 40 has been disconnected for extended periods and did not loose the settings. It is possible to do a reset in the Renogy BT app software and loose all settings.
Another thing that I don't understand is why the Rover Li Load Control is only for 20A. Using 12V=>240W... Practically non-useful for anything. Probably because they don't want to expend in low voltage high current relay.
The Load output is only meant to be used for low current loads like 12/24 VDC volt lighting. I recommend not using the load output. Run everything off the 120 VAC inverter.
=> Below is a link to the inverter. I have used similar devices in the past. They are cheap, efficient and very reliable. I will use the 1000W. My load will never go over 400-600W. It also works ok w/ 15V battery and no load consumption when off.
Looks like this inverter should work. The Sigineer Inverter/Charger may be a better purchase for the long run.