Rover 60 not allowing me to change parameters

[Davian7]

I've tried changing them in the BT app and the DC home app; as well as SRNE app.

The majority of the parameters either don't show up or are "grayed out" depending on the app.

Any insight is appreciated!

Also I am only looking to change the parameters because I don't believe it is working to its potential. After looking at other threads some people suggested changing the boost/absorb/float settings and raising them all to 4.8 since I use it in a daily cyclic manner. I also read to change the battery settings from SLD to GEL since I won't be wanting any equalization? Sound proper?

Any insight on what optimal settings I should input; after figuring out how to change them of course. Everything renogy - 800w panel kit, rover 60a controller, 12v 200ah AGM batteries x 5, and a 3000w inverter

Thanks in advance!

 

[Solarcabin Channel]

Push and hold the right arrow for a second to get in to settings.

Change batt setting to user to start setting parameters.

Scroll through using that button to find setting you want to change.

Change settings with up and down arrow.

Push left button to go back to working mode.

Get the proper settings for your batteries from the battery manufacturer.

Added: I never use the apps so maybe someone else can help you there.

 

[Texas-Mark]

The majority of the parameters either don't show up or are "grayed out" depending on the app.

Are you sure the app is actually connected?

 

[Davian7]

Push and hold the right arrow for a second to get in to settings.

Scroll through using that button to find setting you want to change.

Change settings with up and down arrow.

Push left button to go back to working mode.

Get the proper settings for your batteries from the battery manufacturer.

Added: I never use the apps so maybe someone else can help you there.

Thanks for the reply. I've tried it on the actual unit and again the parameters it let's me change in the App, the first 3 or 4, work fine, but everything under that I cannot edit.

I attached current images from just now. From BatSysVol down to address I can adjust just fine. Everything under that is a no go.

 

[Davian7]

Are you sure the app is actually connected?

Thanks for the reply Mark. 100% positive. It connects in each app just fine after a brief wait. Here is a screenshot from just now of the "grayed out" parameters that cannot be adjusted compared to the "open" ones that can be edited just fine. Any insight?

Temp is the only one I can change in the first image. And then the second image of the load parameters are all a go but I don't use load.

 

[Davian7]

Also side note please: where is says capacity on the actual unit, 200; should I change this to 1000? In the actual Rover 60 manual it says capacity means the "nominal battery capacity". Battery bank total capacity? Or maybe as it's detecting each battery is 200? Again any insight would he appreciated

?

 

[MisterSandals]

a screenshot from just now of the "grayed out" parameters that cannot be adjusted compared to the "open" ones that can be edited just fine. Any insight?

Looks like you have gel type battery selected. I think the onboard profiles cannot be changed. Change to battery type "user" to create your own custom profile.

 

[MisterSandals]

12v 200ah AGM batteries x 5,

Hopefully you have these connected in a balanced manner. If you connect + on one end and - on the other, that is good/fair. There are much better ways and much worse ways to connect them. If you are having balance issues where the batteries are not charging/discharging equally, there are not-so-obvious ways to fix that.

actual unit, 200; should I change this to 1000?

Yes

 

[Davian7]

Looks like you have gel type battery selected. I think the onboard profiles cannot be changed. Change to battery type "user" to create your own custom profile.

This definitely was the cheat code to opening up all the parameters. Thanks a ton man ??

 

[Solarcabin Channel]

Looks like you have gel type battery selected. I think the onboard profiles cannot be changed. Change to battery type "user" to create your own custom profile.

Yes, change batt type to user.

Then change settings.

I forgot about that and haven't changed mine but the one time when I got it.

 

[Davian7]

Hopefully you have these connected in a balanced manner. If you connect + on one end and - on the other, that is good/fair. There are much better ways and much worse ways to connect them. If you are having balance issues where the batteries are not charging/discharging equally, there are not-so-obvious ways to fix that.

I can send you a picture in a few hours to double check if you don't mind. Basically on one end it's the main pos, batter pos to charger, and then that is connected to the next pos terminal, which is connected to the next positive terminal as so on. And then on the opposite it is the same situation but with the negative to inverter and neg charger input and then a connecting each negative down the line to the end; which the end in this case would the battery where the initial main positive connections were made.

The issue I have been having is that I use it daily. I live off grid so it cycles everyday. I live in florida so by noon or atleast 2pm I'm getting 750-820 watt input and it'll show 100% charge... then literally as soon as the sun starts going down and it's around I dunno 80 w input.. that 100% might be more like 87%.. and then within seconds of 0 solar input that 87 might be more like 72% or even something more outrageous.

From my understanding there shouldn't be any pull during equalization mode; which is why I was told to change from SLD to GEL because it removes that sequence. I also read that since it's daily cyclic that I should bump up the boost/absorb/float to 4.6 to 4.8 and keep them all the same that AGM batteries have the ability to recieve higher voltages and that we want to pack as much in as we can while we can; I assume it's kind of like over clocking a motherboard?

Forgive my ignorance but this is my first real dive into solar but I can assure u I have days of research and many open and closed cases thru renogy actual "support" and have been on the phone with them and supervisors for hours. I'm disabled and stuck in the woods. I need this to work to its best ability

So with all that said I just want to give thanks and gratitude to all who have replied thus far

 

[Solarcabin Channel]

.. then literally as soon as the sun starts going down and it's around I dunno 80 w input.. that 100% might be more like 87%.. and then within seconds of 0 solar input that 87 might be more like 72% or even something more outrageous.

Is that happening with no load?

 

[MisterSandals]

that I should bump up the boost/absorb/float to 4.6 to 4.8

What are these? The cell voltages or do you mean 14.6V and 14.8V?

Can you post your charge settings? Also, if there is a SoC vs voltage setting, post that too.

You may be seeing the surface charge as the 100% voltage and when the battery settles from near charge voltage (14.4V) down towards "really 99.9% capacity SoC), it displays 87% and ~13.8V?

 

[Davian7]

Is that happening with no load?

Yes i can completely isolate the system by removing the inverter. So just panel input to mmpt to battery bank and then no electrical drain/output on the batteries what so ever

 

[Solarcabin Channel]

Yes i can completely isolate the system by removing the inverter. So just panel input to mmpt to battery bank and then no electrical drain/output on the batteries what so ever

Ok, looking at what you posted your full charge setting should be 14.8 volts.

Not 4.8 volts and that could be your problem lol!

After it is charged use a multimeter to check battery voltage and post results.

 

[Davian7]

What are these? The cell voltages or do you mean 14.6V and 14.8V?

Can you post your charge settings? Also, if there is a SoC vs voltage setting, post that too.

You may be seeing the surface charge as the 100% voltage and when the battery settles from near charge voltage (14.4V) down towards "really 99.9% capacity SoC), it displays 87% and ~13.8V?

Give me a bit to get this information for you sir. I really appreciate all of you and the quick responses. I have family coming to visit from out of town so I am trying to set that up as well. I did take a video for you just now explaining my battery configuration so when u get a chance if you could check it out and lmk what you think would be optimal - if I recall I think this configuration is called in series parallel?

Ok, looking at what you posted your full charge setting should be 14.8 volts.

Not 4.8 volts and that could be your problem lol!

After it is charged use a multimeter to check battery voltage and post results.

That was my mistake yes 14.6 to 14.8 not 4 LOL I've done all the battery testing for renogy in the past... and I will admit that I only paid for 4 of those batteries... one after all the testing they determined was dysfunctional and they never asked for it back but even tho it held maybe 70% rather than 100 I felt I might as well keep it in the line up.. any more "fuel" added to the tank for overnight is better than not? Right? Although I've always wondered if it's malfunction is messing up the other 4 batteries. I have it as my 5th battery in th3 line up and was intending on removing it when I get a chance to see if it makes a difference but I'm already running way under recommended discharge on a daily basis and with my medical equipment it is not ideal to take apart the solar and do testing for hours or days at a time isolating each battery

 

[Solarcabin Channel]

I might as well keep it in the line up.. any more "fuel" added to the tank for overnight is better than not?

No, a bad battery will not charge and will keep the others from charging.

Take it out of the system.

 

[Davian7]

Here are the videos of my bank configuration

 

[MisterSandals]

800w panel kit, rover 60a controller, 12v 200ah AGM batteries x 5

Lets do a little math...
12.8V x 200Ah x5 batts = 12,800Wh (only half of this is useable, down to 12.0V)

6400Wh / 800W = 8h to recharge from stone cold empty (12.0V).

It sounds like you are likely not charging these fully. You are certainly not getting 8h of solar, even in florida during the winter.

You'd know your batteries are full when/if the charging amps or solar watts approach 0 while the sun is still significant. I suspect your batteries may show a higher voltage while being charged because the reading blends in some of the higher charge voltage with the resting battery's true voltage.

 

[Davian7]

Here are the videos of my bank configuration

Well I suppose the video format mp4 is not supported for upload? I will have to convert them. Please give me some time. I really appreciate all the amazing help and don't want to seem ungrateful while I'm getting it but life is happening. Bare with me please