RichSolar 6548 - Grounding issue when generating PV?

[WarmPepsi]

Hey, long time lurker, first time poster.

Got a grounding question/concern when using this for an RV application and looking for help.

When actively getting solar, I'm getting voltage on my AC output ground line. The 6548 will be mounted in the rv, and the mounting hardware will ground it do the frame, however it's not done yet as I'm simply temporarily testing the system. I can physically feel the voltage/amperage/whatever when holding a shielded ground wire. Can't say thats normal, but I don't see how grounding it to the frame would change that, since that's where I initially discovered it... (long story below)

I'm leaking .3 amps and call it .2 volts AC on my ground wire coming out of my AC Output (no load attached to the plug). If I turn off the PV with my breaker, dead 0. (Breaker in left side of photos)

Did I do something wrong? Or is the system doing something incorrectly? The less panels I have attached on the array, the less the tingle, but I tried isolating the panels thinking it was something from them, but both individual arrays behaved the same way.

I shut it down and verified that the neutral and ground must be bonded inside the unit; could this be an unwanted issue?



Long Story..

Got a few items from Rich Solar; their version of the 6548 and 2 - 100ah 48v server rack batteries. Going in an RV (Toyhauler) for power, along with roughly 3kw of loose panels that'll be loose ground displayed when boondocking. Panels are currently literally sat on the ground with a concrete block behind them for angle.

Fired it all up this weekend, just loose in my shop; wired a 10 GA extension cord for input/output. Hooked it to the half charged batteries, tested a heat gun load, all good. Hooked it up to the array and let the batteries charge. No issues. Panels are 260 watt RES units. Saw 23-2400 watts on Saturday.

Shut it down and wired in a 50 amp RV plug to start testing on the camper. It has a 50 amp service, but no 220v items; so I simply jumpered the 6ga wire inside the connection to provide 2 legs (nether will pull anywhere near 30 amps).

Got it all wired up and plugged the camper in, works great. Fired up both AC's and the microwave and watched the system hum and do everything like a champ. AWESOME. Getting close to getting final setup done. So since the sun had dropped and the batteries were 100% full, I left it plugged into the camper with the fridge and AC able to run all night. Made it all night with some to spare. In the AM, I ran it down to shutoff (to confirm it would) and the system cycled out as planned. With the sun coming up, I let it get to charging while running some of the loads inside just to see how it did, which is when I came across a weird tingling when removing a frame mounted fastener on the underside of the camper... I thought it was just my fingers going numb, and then I realized after the 3rd or 4th one... those are electrically hot!

 

[WarmPepsi]

Has nobody else put a clamp meter on their AC ground output while generating power? Neutral ground screw has been removed, but still seeing voltage on the AC Output ground line when generating PV current. No Current when PV is disconnected. No Load, no connection to grid.

Trying to confirm if this is an expected behavior, or a problem with this specific unit.

 

[WarmPepsi]

Update: After talking with RichSolar's support, they basically admitted all of these HF inverter units leak power out on the ground line. Thats 100% a no-go for a camper with a fuel tank.

However, I came home and did a little simple testing.... I set the unit to SBU so it would not draw any power from the grid, and then while getting solar, fired up the inverter... flat nothing on the ground line. Alright, it's grounding back thru the AC Input to my shop/home. So I took my 10 ga extension cord and hooked it to the AC Input... went out and stuffed a 2' piece of all-thread down into the ground, and used a jumper cable to go from the ground pin to the all-thread. Same result. So basically if you're off grid or automotive... you need to give these units a place to dump that spare energy.

What was even more interesting is after hooking up the grounds... I took my clamp meter out and went around the jumper line.... no amps, no volts. So where is the current going? Or is it not throwing odd current off now that it has a legit ground? the world may never know.

The unit becomes usable if this works, if not, it's back to the drawing board since all of these 6548 units probably energize the ground line if not physically grounded in some way/shape/form.