Run System Without Battery Bank?

[RogerD]

Ordering 280ah cells out of China. Everything else is coming from the US.

If I ordered everything today. I would have within 2 weeks except for the cells, which I assume would be 8-10 weeks to receive.

Can you set up everything and test that it works without having a battery bank attached?

Just concerned about the return window if something needs to be replaced.

 

[Boondock Saint]

Hi Roger, what else did you purchase?

Did you go with Trina?

 

[RogerD]

I haven't purchased anything yet because I'm not sure if I should wait until I have all the cells first.

99.9% sure I'm going to get (4) rich solar 200w 24v panels instead of the (2) trina 410 panels.

The (4) 200w panels will cost about double the (2) 410w panels. $880 VS $442. However, the rack that I will build will cost me around $200 less because of fewer materials needed, not having to make the bottom 410 panel slide out. Also, I will have all panels exposed 100% of the time with the (4) 200w panels VS both 410 exposed only when it's OK to slide out the bottom panel.

 

[pollenface]

Can you set up everything and test that it works without having a battery bank attached?

I wouldn't advise it.

Charge controllers require a battery connected first to sense the system voltage. A high voltage pv array may damage a controller without the batteries connected.

I would just wait until you've got all the bits, then connect the panels last.

 

[John Frum]

I used an rv converter as a stunt double for the battery to set up and test my system.

 

[houseofancients]

depends, al lot of all-in-devices can run battery less, however a cloud could very well stop any powerhungry device like a washing machine

 

[chrisski]

I have found that even though panels maybe able to supply all the power I need for everything I use short of the microwave when its sunny out, and even though they are supposed to. Turn on instantly and shut off instantly, when I watch my battery monitor, this process actually takes a few seconds, and the higher the power the longer it takes.

My coffee maker can pull 55 amps for 3 minutes, and the most I’ve seen my panels push is 74 amps. When I turn my 55 amp on, the battery monitor shows power being pulled from the battery a few seconds, and then I have maybe five or so amps going back in the batterries until my coffee maker finnsishes the three minutes of brewing, and the 30+ amps willl be pushed into the batteries.

I’ve never tried to run this with the battery disconnected, so I don’t know what will happen. I paid way too much for. My system to try this. My charge controller like every one out there says do not run without a battery.

If you try this, I’d like to hear what happened.

 

[RogerD]

I'm going to get (8 ) 280ah and set up as 24v. So the inverter will be 24v.

While waiting, what if I was to just get a pair of 12v (probably starter batteries that aren't holding a charge very well anymore) and set up as 24v.

Would that suffice as a means to just test?

 

[houseofancients]

I'm going to get (8 ) 280ah and set up as 24v. So the inverter will be 24v.

While waiting, what if I was to just get a pair of 12v (probably starter batteries that aren't holding a charge very well anymore) and set up as 24v.

Would that suffice as a means to just test?

should be enough, it is usually the short peaks that will cause the inverter to alarm/shutdown

 

[John Frum]

I'm going to get (8 ) 280ah and set up as 24v. So the inverter will be 24v.

While waiting, what if I was to just get a pair of 12v (probably starter batteries that aren't holding a charge very well anymore) and set up as 24v.

Would that suffice as a means to just test?

Why not have an ac2dc charging option anyway?
Its not required but comes in darn handy when the sun don't shine.
Also really handy for commissioning the system.
Just like nearly all sailboats have a diesel engine for backup.

 

[chrisski]

I think testing with low power batteries with low power loads would work. I’m just not sure how this would effect it with two bad batteries.

I did something similar to a 400 watt system. I tested it with a car battery, 92 ah, and kept the load to 25 watts and only had it on for a few minutes. I had a 400 watt inverter, but did not push the inverter. I also had a well charged, rather new battery I tried.

 

[RogerD]

Why not have an ac2dc charging option anyway?
Its not required but comes in darn handy when the sun don't shine.
Also really handy for commissioning the system.
Just like nearly all sailboats have a diesel engine for backup.

I actually do plan on buying one to use with my generator if needed.

Can you hook one up in place of a battery bank?

 

[RogerD]

I think testing with low power batteries with low power loads would work. I’m just not sure how this would effect it with two bad batteries.

I did something similar to a 400 watt system. I tested it with a car battery, 92 ah, and kept the load to 25 watts and only had it on for a few minutes. I had a 400 watt inverter, but did not push the inverter. I also had a well charged, rather new battery I tried.

I'm looking to run a 410 watt AC as part of the test

 

[John Frum]

I actually do plan on buying one to use with my generator if needed.

Can you hook one up in place of a battery bank?

Run System Without Battery Bank?

Ordering 280ah cells out of China. Everything else is coming from the US. If I ordered everything today. I would have within 2 weeks except for the cells, which I assume would be 8-10 weeks to receive. Can you set up everything and test that it works without having a battery bank attached...

diysolarforum.com

Voltage on the busbars backed by a modest bit of current is all that is required for basic testing.

 

[John Frum]

I'm looking to run a 410 watt AC as part of the test

410 watts is doable for an RV converter.
The starting current is very likely not doable.

 

[RogerD]

410 watts is doable for an RV converter.
The starting current is very likely not doable.

It's not bad. I think it's like 525 ish.

 

[John Frum]

It's not bad. I think it's like 525 ish.

Generally the in-rush for a standard air conditioner is 4-5x the continous draw.
My window shaker takes ~25 amps@120VAC to start the compressor.
Probably more if the compressor is hot.

 

[RogerD]

Generally the in-rush for a standard air conditioner is 4-5x the continous draw.
My window shaker takes ~25 amps@120VAC to start the compressor.
Probably more if the compressor is hot.

I have a Frigidaire FFRE0533S1 5000 BTU window unit. It has a low-power start-up and is nothing like that.

Someone from Frigidaire commented on a question about this and I remember them saying it pulled like 525 watts. It was definitely in the 500's. I don't have a meter that will read the in-rush, but I know an AC guy. I should get him to check it.

What is the reason everyone uses a ~ before amps?

 

[John Frum]

I have a Frigidaire FFRE0533S1 5000 BTU window unit. It has a low-power start-up and is nothing like that.

Someone from Frigidaire commented on a question about this and I remember them saying it pulled like 525 watts. It was definitely in the 500's. I don't have a meter that will read the in-rush, but I know an AC guy. I should get him to check it.

What is the reason everyone uses a ~ before amps?

~ = aproximate