Run the wires inside or outside

[spielen]

I have been gathering the components for my solar build and the one thing I am not sure about is how to get the wires from the inverter/charger to the distribution panel. The installation is going in a R-Pod 180 where the distribution panel is in the under the dinette seat as you enter the RV. So the AC is routed through the interior floor to the opposite side (Driver side of the camper) and the DC comes from the batteries on the tongue from underneath.

My plan is to move the placement of the battery (new LiFePo) to inside the front storage which is under the bed. I also plan to have the smart shunt, MPPT and Inverter/Charger there as well to keep the battery cables as short as possible from battery to inverter.

So my question is, do I kept the same route of the DC to the distribution panel and drill a hole in the floor or run the wires inside. The distance is about 7' in difference between inside and outside and I haven't determined if I can fit a 6/3 through the access route in the floor for the the inverter to distribution panel.

Also, can I use 6/3 SOOW or SEOOW instead of marine triplex since it is about half the cost. I know it is for portable power. I guess another option would be to use THHN if I stay inside.

TIA

PS Link for floorplan

 

[eXodus]

What cable are you talking about the AC or DC cables?

AC doesn't really matter how long they are. And for DC cables if they outside or inside? As short and thick as possible.

Many RV's are coming with a box in the compartment where the shore cable is in.
Standard config is:

AC side:
Shore-cable > Power Center
You are going to change that to:
Shore-Cable > Inverter/charger > power center

For DC, I did both, running cables underneath or inside the cabinets. Depending what was easier. Good wires don't mind being outside.

 

[spielen]

What cable are you talking about the AC or DC cables?

AC doesn't really matter how long they are. And for DC cables if they outside or inside? As short and thick as possible.

Many RV's are coming with a box in the compartment where the shore cable is in.
Standard config is:

AC side:
Shore-cable > Power Center
You are going to change that to:
Shore-Cable > Inverter/charger > power center

Yeah, I'll need to run new 10/3 from the shore power port to the inverter, then 6/3 from the inverter back to the panel.

Either really. The DC for the dc side of the distribution panel which is currently fed straight from the batteries (Lead Acid) on the tongue. Those are being replaced by a SOK 206 ah battery. I just wonder how to seal the hole back up after running wires if I do drill a hole. I think the wire run would be about the same distance as the current run since it follows the trailer frame.

For DC, I did both, running cables underneath or inside the cabinets. Depending what was easier. Good wires don't mind being outside.

Any thoughts on my choice of wire?

 

[Whinny]

Welcome to the biggest PIA for wiring trailers with inverters,,,,,
How big of an inverter are you wishing to use-what do you wish to power? Do you wish to transfer all the trailer circuits? Smaller inverters may not have a 30a transfer capability.
Your existing converter 12v is probably #6, re-routing it to the new battery location would be easiest. What underbelly material do you have? Making a metal plate with 2 cable glands is a good way of creating an entry point. Remember you need to power the breakaway switch and tongue jack.

For the a/c side you will need two 10/3, they can go to the power centre- you may have to put an new elec. box there, there may not be a connection box at the shore power plug, is it a plug or permanently attached cable?

With your layout I would suggest keeping all 110v wiring inside, maybe put it behind a new molding along the floor under the dinette.
Soow can not be used anywhere it's hidden-use Romex.

You can keep your converter/charger and use a stand alone inverter with an external transfer switch, that would require less 110v wiring but can be more work-It's another can of worms and dependent on inverter size.

Edit.....they ran water lines along the floor in your bathroom feeding the sink and added a cover-you could do it like that under the dinette.

 

[spielen]

Welcome to the biggest PIA for wiring trailers with inverters,,,,,
How big of an inverter are you wishing to use-what do you wish to power? Do you wish to transfer all the trailer circuits? Smaller inverters may not have a 30a transfer capability.
Your existing converter 12v is probably #6, re-routing it to the new battery location would be easiest. What underbelly material do you have? Making a metal plate with 2 cable glands is a good way of creating an entry point. Remember you need to power the breakaway switch and tongue jack.

For the a/c side you will need two 10/3, they can go to the power centre- you may have to put an new elec. box there, there may not be a connection box at the shore power plug, is it a plug or permanently attached cable?

With your layout I would suggest keeping all 110v wiring inside, maybe put it behind a new molding along the floor under the dinette.
Soow can not be used anywhere it's hidden-use Romex.

You can keep your converter/charger and use a stand alone inverter with an external transfer switch, that would require less 110v wiring but can be more work-It's another can of worms and dependent on inverter size.

I an using a 2000w multiplus. Planning to run all the AC circuits except for A/C and microwave for now and once I add a second battery, potentially adding the microwave. For now, I'll just turn the breakers off when we aren't hooked up to shore power. Speaking of, the shore power connection is a plug. The wire coming from the plug is currently 10/3 romex.

 

[Whinny]

It seems all the newer trailers are using plugs on the shore power now-I suspect it was a code thing with the Soow cord running inside the walls and floors of the trailer.
That inverter has a 50a transfer and would be fine running your microwave. Put a 4x4 elec. box behind the converter, intercept the shore romex to extend to the inverter, and run the inverter out to the converter . It's a 30a a/c converter I imagine.......#10 romex is fine...what were you thinking of the #6 soow for? You could slice the underbelly below the dinette and run the romex under the floor, but that underbelly is a pain to deal with and I would use waterproof romex-don't know what it is called down there we call it NMW versus NMD

 

[eXodus]

It seems all the newer trailers are using plugs on the shore power now-I suspect it was a code thing with the Soow cord running inside the walls and floors of the trailer.

I guess it's easier to wire for the manufacturer and cheaper, you go from powercenter to outside box and that's it. The customer has to buy the cable later and you as customer have the "illusion of choice" of cable length

 

[spielen]

what were you thinking of the #6 soow for?

The manual for the multiplus recommends it for the power assist feature and the multiplus ac out max size is 6 awg.

AC-out
With its PowerAssist feature the Multi can add up to 2kVA (that is 2000 / 120 = 17A) to
the output during periods of peak power requirement. Together with a maximum input
current of 50A this means that the output can supply up to 50 + 17 = 67A.
An earth leakage circuit breaker and a fuse or circuit breaker rated to support the
expected load must be included in series with the output, and cable cross-section
must be sized accordingly.

 

[spielen]

Your existing converter 12v is probably #6, re-routing it to the new battery location would be easiest. What underbelly material do you have? Making a metal plate with 2 cable glands is a good way of creating an entry point. Remember you need to power the breakaway switch and tongue jack.

Thanks for the reminder about my trailer brakes. Under the trailer is exposed.

 

[Whinny]

For you installation it doesn't matter what the Multiplus can put out-your main breaker is 30a and #10 is fine for that. But if you are plugged into a really poor or 15a power source you inverter can help it along up to that 30a. EG 15a shore power running air conditioning and using microwave.....

edit....I might be wrong-the wire from inverter to the breaker might have to be bigger, you are capable of producing 45 amps on that wire is there a way to limit "power assist" in software?

 

[spielen]

edit....I might be wrong-the wire from inverter to the breaker might have to be bigger, you are capable of producing 45 amps on that wire is there a way to limit "power assist" in software?

Maybe, i'll see if I can demo it

 

[Whinny]

The other option is 1 foot of #6 from inverter to a single breaker box with a 30a breaker in it, then #10 the rest of the way to the converter panel....
Your inverter is capable of adding 17a to the incoming power, that's would allow Air Con. use with a smaller inverter genset.

 

[JMc]

For our trailer I ran 1-inch PVC conduit and clamped it to frame members as needed. It runs from front to back and has two pull boxes along the way. My battery bay is on the opposite side from the bay with the inverter and SCCs and it took a 1-1/2 inch flex conduit to run the two 4/0 wires between the areas (~ 5 feet). These are all low voltage DC wires, if I needed to run 120V AC I’d use a separate conduit.