FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
It looks like there are no solar panels hooked up to the Charge Controller. Do you have any way to charge the battery(s)?
Shut down whole system why? Help
- Thread starter dac1943
- Start date
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
Did you go to Will's web site for that build?
https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/2000-watt-24v-solar-system.html
Will has changed the design since he did the video.
Notice the note on the Battery Protect.
This is a different (and simpler) design on the website.
electric
Solar Enthusiast
According to your pics your panels are not connected. Maybe the pic is outdated. We can only go by what you post.
You must be able to know if your battery is charging, without knowing that, you are literally in the dark.
Even a 12V fan can discharge the battery, especially if it was never charged.
Behavior you describe and OCV voltage suggests an empty battery.
Can you measure each battery separately? Each one should be well above 12V unless they are almost empty and they should have the same voltage if they are balanced. Lithium voltage is not linear, 12V OCV means almost empty and even a small load will drop it lower and trip the BMS.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
This is the simplified schematic from the web site
He shows 4 batteries (2 sets in parallel of 2 in series). Just 2 in series would work (just less storage).
He shows 4 batteries (2 sets in parallel of 2 in series). Just 2 in series would work (just less storage).
SolarRat
Solar Addict
This^. Sounds like your battery is low and the BMS is tripping the low voltage cutoff as soon as it's connected.
Doesn't that Tracer CC have a max input of 150v? Most 325w panels have an OCV of over 40. This isn't your current problem, but something to look at and maybe why the battery isn't charging?
Your breaker is between the controller and battery...so I can't see why it would have tripped. And even with it tripped, a charged battery would still power your loads.
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
Good God -- is there anyway at all you can just run to WalMart and get a $12 Voltmeter ... otherwise we are all just guessing ... heck at this point I would be suspecting your breaker is bad ...
BUT without a voltmeter - we are going to have 200 guesses ...
The other alternative is to simply touch the wires to your tongue and tell us which ones shock you more ...
BUT without a voltmeter - we are going to have 200 guesses ...
The other alternative is to simply touch the wires to your tongue and tell us which ones shock you more ...
John Frum
Tell me your problems
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2019
- Messages
- 15,233
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
I fully agree that anyone doing DIY solar should buy a volt meter *first*.
Having said that, he is on St John VI. It is a beautiful island but there is no Wallmart, home depot, etc. He may have to take the ferry over to St Thomas just to buy a volt meter
SolarRat
Solar Addict
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
BTW: You may want to look at this thread:
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/battery-protect.3999/#post-39760
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/battery-protect.3999/#post-39760
ghostwriter66
"Here - Hold my Beer"
Hey, that's the way I always test my 9v batteries
I actually have some older techs - seriously older - that will see if there is power being applied to the system by popping the wires together to see if they get a spark ... which just drives me crazy because we have all this equipment on us that tells us if we are working with anything live ... every RARE now and then you do get a live wire and you can hear the POP a kilometer away when they ground the wires to each other ... ((BUT even before they do that - this thing in their shirt pocket is screeching telling them that it senses live current)) ... aaaggghhh !! .. I have no idea how they made it this long alive ... then again .. they may actually only be 30 and only LOOK old due to their bodies absorbing 1000's of volts over time ...
erik.calco
Solar Badger
Do you have a 12V charger you can try to charge the batteries with. Try to get them both over 13V. Then connect in parallel and put some 12V load on them, and charge them, and so on, to balance them. If you get that far, you can retest.
I heard of others having problem when the battery shut off to protect. And, charging them with 12V reset things. It's a good reason to use two 12V batteries instead of a single 24V, because who has a 24V AC charger lying around? lol
I heard of others having problem when the battery shut off to protect. And, charging them with 12V reset things. It's a good reason to use two 12V batteries instead of a single 24V, because who has a 24V AC charger lying around? lol
lets send him one.
That’s partly why I doing this the other is I will not have monthly bills, and when WAPA goes down I won’t
Yes where is the new one at? I don’t see it
How many amps is that 2000 watt 4000 watt max inverter pulling or max rated to pull? Did you pull more than 100 amps? That BP100 is only rated for 100 amps. The BP100 should only be connected to your 24vdc bus to protect your dc from under voltage IMO, however if you are going to use between the battery and inverter a BP220 would be better suited along with the battery fused at 200 amps. Where is your fuse for the battery? What size fuse are you using? You are only using #4 battery cable? That my be way under sized. I have to assume that inverter may be rated to pull a max of 150 to 200 amps and if so #4 is to small.
Did you program the BP100 for 24 volts and what did you set your LVD at?
Did you program the BP100 for 24 volts and what did you set your LVD at?
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
He shows 4 batteries (2 sets in parallel of 2 in series). Just 2 in series would work (just less storage).
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
Here is my drawing of it.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
Here is a pic from Will
