Silicone sealant
- Thread starter minerva
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Rednecktek
Solar Wizard
I use blue RTV regularly for my junction boxes out on the ships. It holds up well against salt water spray and rough weather and doesn't seem to break down in the heat as much as clear silicone.
Do you think it’s good for bedding?
Rednecktek
Solar Wizard
I think it'd be pretty lumpy and uncomfortable once it cures, you'll want a memory foam topper at least.
It's got the same pliability as silicone and holds up better under temperature changes, so I guess it would really depend on what you're bedding in it. For sealing your PV j-boxes (I'm assuming you're talking about the ones on the back of the panels) a thin coat right around the edge should be fine.
Thanks. I need it for covering the connection inside the junction box.I think it'd be pretty lumpy and uncomfortable once it cures, you'll want a memory foam topper at least.
It's got the same pliability as silicone and holds up better under temperature changes, so I guess it would really depend on what you're bedding in it. For sealing your PV j-boxes (I'm assuming you're talking about the ones on the back of the panels) a thin coat right around the edge should be fine.
Rednecktek
Solar Wizard
Isn't the box sealed? I'd work on sealing that before you try insulating/bedding each terminal.
MMmmmmm, SikaFlex, a sailor's best friend!
Right up there with CoroSeal... and almost as hard to find in stores.
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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Sikaflex is an amazing product.
Or 3M 4200 or 5200. Which might be easier to find in a small tube for a single application. Stocked at HD, Ace HW, and the like, etc.
A J-box will generally have a 'gland' type seal for wires coming in or out.
Urethane sealants form a permanent seal - the stuff is very tough.
A J-box will generally have a 'gland' type seal for wires coming in or out.
Urethane sealants form a permanent seal - the stuff is very tough.
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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I would avoid sealing the connections, individually.
This would make for a troubleshooting nightmare.
This would make for a troubleshooting nightmare.
The acid based silicon sealer works for 40 years+ , how ever do not use on live circuits until it has cured for 24hrs. Acid conducts electricity until has cured . The only thing that it cannot handle is gasoline . It eats the bond to what ever you stuck it to.
Rednecktek
Solar Wizard
T, FTFY
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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I've always used butyl tape, on metal roofing.
Never thought about other uses, but it makes sense.
Never thought about other uses, but it makes sense.
Butyl is used for deck joints, like teak planking. It can be VERY slow to cure...like days. It is very much like rubber once cured. Seems like 'lifecaulk' is a butyl sealant...it's been a number of years since I built and maintained wooden boats. For anything fiberglass, 3M 5200 is hands down the standard caulk for bedding and sealing.
Hot melt is a good idea - ready to go once cooled.
Silicone is just not very strong. If it's not open to weather and protected it can serve the purpose. It can be difficult to get good adhesion with it. It is much softer than urethane caulk.
Hot melt is a good idea - ready to go once cooled.
Silicone is just not very strong. If it's not open to weather and protected it can serve the purpose. It can be difficult to get good adhesion with it. It is much softer than urethane caulk.
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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There are non-corrosive silicone sealants (don't give off acetic acid) for electronics.
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Can that be removed if needed?
Yes.
