You have not presented anything close to compelling evidence for your claim.
So I'm gonna dismiss it.
You have not presented anything close to compelling evidence for your claim.
So I'm gonna dismiss it.
At the Inverter, Low Voltage Cut-off will still be 10V (2.5V per cell). That was the original discussion regarding Inverter Cut off at 10V or 10.1V for a 12V system. There was question about minimums and 2V is still absolute minimum. However, for longevity, 2.5V (approx. 90% discharged) is my target.
My $.02 ($CD .03)...
It doesn't take much looking to find stuff on the web that indicates LFP can go to 2.0V/cell. Here are a few:
Measuring State-of-charge - Battery University
Explore SoC measurements and why they are not accuratebatteryuniversity.com
3.2V 30Ah Lightweight With Good Charging / Discharging Performance
High quality 3.2V 30Ah Lightweight With Good Charging / Discharging Performance from China, China's leading LFP Pouch Cells product market, With strict quality control LFP Pouch Cells factories, Producing high quality 3.2V 30Ah Lightweight With Good Charging / Discharging Performance products.www.hecobattery.com
https://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/Bestgo-20Ah-LiFePO4-Lithium-Pouch-Cell (check one of the two discharge curve pictures and cell specs table farther down the page)
This can easily allow someone to make that conclusion broadly.
It's also helpful to remember that LFP chemistry is absurdly robust.
I have 57 CALB cells that were stored at 0.6V for months after their BMS boards flattened them. They all charged up and are indistinguishable from the 5 that were stored in the charged state (same capacity and IR). They've also held their charges for several months since. This deep discharge happened AFTER they were ABUSED in a plug-in-hybrid conversion kit for the Gen2 Prius in PHOENIX with NO cooling system for a couple years.
One must understand that pushing the chemistry to the extreme limits has rapidly diminishing returns... so much goody is had in that flat part of the curve. If exceeding upper and lower voltage limits is done every cycle, you'll have reduced cycle life. If it's done occasionally and not excessively (DON'T go over 4.2V ever), you'll never see the difference.
My $.02 ($CD .03)...
It doesn't take much looking to find stuff on the web that indicates LFP can go to 2.0V/cell. Here are a few:
It's also helpful to remember that LFP chemistry is absurdly robust.
One must understand that pushing the chemistry to the extreme limits has rapidly diminishing returns... so much goody is had in that flat part of the curve. If exceeding upper and lower voltage limits is done every cycle, you'll have reduced cycle life.
If it's done occasionally and not excessively (DON'T go over 4.2V ever), you'll never see the difference.
@Dzl
One should design around one's needs and the limitations of the components. If someone is willing to sacrifice cycle life to squeeze out a little more performance on a per-cycle basis, that's their prerogative.
The key is to understand the limitations of the components when formulating the design.
Those limitations are obtained from the component manufacturer - a point I had intended to make in my post, where I believe you and I completely agree...
Uncle! UNCLE!!!You have not presented anything close to compelling evidence for your claim.
So I'm gonna dismiss it.
Ok I have a 50 amp service panel and a 30 amp inverter. I'm ok with only running power from the inverter to one side of the service panel. I understand in your diagram how to use the manual switch for the shore power. I'm a little lost of the inverter section. I can understand connecting the inverter to the switch but I don't understand how to connect that part of the switch to my service panel. On my service panel I have the receptacle, the GFI receptacles and the microwave. How do I power these from my inverter please?I just thought I would put this info out as this change over switch (Available on Amazon) allows you to easily power your RV from shore/generator power or from your solar /battery/ power inverter setup. It might be something Will might like to do a video on at some point as it solves a myriad of problems of switching from different power sources in an RV and this particular design will keep you from every worrying about damaging your inverter, or from having to turn off your AC to DC battery charger converter.
-Scott
Change over Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075GVLV2V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1